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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:banghead Well, completed the installation of the S&W roll cage, my son painted it last night. I'm dissappointed in it, to be honest. Part of it is my fault, expectations too high, and probably a failure to research it enough.

I planned to build my own cage, but as I researched the tools I needed, and would have to buy, particularly a tubing bender and a tubing notcher, I decided it was going to cost too much. I saw the S&W cage at $279, and thought that a good price. A local shop gave me an estimate of $500.

Well, the S&W cage, with handling and shipping to Montana, cost about $450. Other problems, I was expecting a kit, ready basically to be welded in. It still required cutting, shaping, notching to assemble. It also had the rear braces angled down so that the rear seat can not fit.

So, I'll buy some more tubing and modify it to how I need it. But in the end, probably wasn't a bargain, probably should have had it built locally.

On the good side, it gave me a chance to rip out the old carpet which had been applied over the cracked original vinyl floor covering. Will have to order a replacement flooring some time, or maybe rhino lining or something similar.

Tried to put in my bench seat from my 85 pickup, but the door bars are in the way. I've got some seats from some other vehicles in the garage, we'll try them and see if I can get seating for all 5 of us.
 

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davesanrn said:
:banghead Well, completed the installation of the S&W roll cage, my son painted it last night. I'm dissappointed in it, to be honest. Part of it is my fault, expectations too high, and probably a failure to research it enough.

I planned to build my own cage, but as I researched the tools I needed, and would have to buy, particularly a tubing bender and a tubing notcher, I decided it was going to cost too much. I saw the S&W cage at $279, and thought that a good price. A local shop gave me an estimate of $500.

Well, the S&W cage, with handling and shipping to Montana, cost about $450. Other problems, I was expecting a kit, ready basically to be welded in. It still required cutting, shaping, notching to assemble. It also had the rear braces angled down so that the rear seat can not fit.

So, I'll buy some more tubing and modify it to how I need it. But in the end, probably wasn't a bargain, probably should have had it built locally.

On the good side, it gave me a chance to rip out the old carpet which had been applied over the cracked original vinyl floor covering. Will have to order a replacement flooring some time, or maybe rhino lining or something similar.

Tried to put in my bench seat from my 85 pickup, but the door bars are in the way. I've got some seats from some other vehicles in the garage, we'll try them and see if I can get seating for all 5 of us.
Good to know, thanks for sharing. I've been debating how to go about a simple but sturdy 4 point roll bar and think I'll just have it bent locally where they have access to my truck, and then weld it, complete it, and install it myself. At one time I was wanting to get a tubing bender, but don't think that's ever going to actually happen. Shipping on heavy tubing which is also usually long and akward I can see as being expensive.
 

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Good post, I'll have to agree with most of your comments. In my view, the S&W Racecars kit is good quality material, and some items like the main hoop are pre-bent and others are notched. I spent countless hours cutting, grinding and fitting the pieces together to fit the Bronco. For a basic or starter cage kit, it' still a decent price. If you do that much work on the install, consider how much you're saving on labor. I was quoted $800-$1000 from a race shop to build and install a kit, but spent so far about $300. My labor would cost another $600-$700 easy if a shop was doing the work. I also added my own modifications to the kit, which either you or a shop will be doing, like the subframe connections. While a shop could do it in a few weeks, I've taken two years due to lack of time and a blown motor.

Any chance of some pics on the install??? I'd be interested, as I'm sure others would be, JSM84:rockon
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My supermotors registry is: www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=11256 I have a few photos on there. I haven't figured out how to post here on FSB yet. Justshootme I appreciate your insight. If I could have gotten my wife to pay me for all the work I've done on this thing, I wouldn't have to work. Don't see that happening. We'll keep after it. S&W did send me some pieces of rectangular tubing for Frame extensions, and some of the peices were notched. The cab loop (above your head in the cab) has some funny bends in it, I probably would have made them straight, but looks like they are trying to get it as wide as possible. So yeah, I think knowing what I know now, it probably was a decent deal, although the high cost of shipping hurt. My main problem was that the last time I bought a roll bar, was in the 70s, can't remember who I bought it from, it was for my 71 Nova, and the thing came in 3 peices, all notched and to length, and all they needed was welding. I probably should have gotten the hint because this cage was for 78 and up full size broncos, or something like that, so obviously they needed to put in extra lenght on some pieces. Instructions were pretty sketchy too, with the caveat that you should call S&W with any questions. Well I'll drive 1000 miles out of my way before I ask for directions, so that didn't motivate me.

Only other issue is that it really helps to have a 2nd pair of hands when fitting and tacking. My tecniques of using the top of my head, and boards, is probably not to be emulated.
 

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davesanrn said:
Only other issue is that it really helps to have a 2nd pair of hands when fitting and tacking. My tecniques of using the top of my head, and boards, is probably not to be emulated.
Good point!!! I used everything from some rope to trim pieces to hold up the roof hoop to an engine hoist on the main hoop. I also did most of the install myself, and had the most trouble with that roof piece. I did pre-fit it to the main hoop prior to installation to grind out the notches, but final fitting could only be done inside the cab. I have about 1/2" of clearance between the hoop and cab all around. Enough to install some padding, but the headliner or sunvisors won't be going back on. Another tip, clean out your glove box before installing the dash cross brace.

I'm working on a write-up article with several of the pics from SFO. Just getting a dude to finish up some of the welds, since I have little time right now. Once the cage is painted and re-installed, I will post up the full article, JSM84
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
"Another tip, clean out your glove box before installing the dash cross brace."


-I did not install the dash cross brace, wanted to keep as much knee room as possible. The glove box door also impacted as far as the seat I'd thought about installing, and the window cranks. I'm going to check at the junk yard and see if I can get a shorter window crank for the passenger side. I was unable to get the bench seat from my 85 F250 in because of the side braces. I'm planning on checking the junkyard for a minipickup front bench and see what I can find. I've got the rear seat from a 92 Rocky in the back, it seats 2, still need to get seat belts in the rear.
 

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is that the 10 point kit from them?? it seems like you are missing some of the rear bars.. dissapionting to hear that you dont like it.. im getting ready to order one in a couple of weeks.. got any install tips that you'd like to share?? I also noticed that they offer one for a 92-95 lightning.. Wonder if that would work better in my 93 instead of a catch all cage for a 78 and up... hmmmmmm...
 
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