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Install Completed!! Saginaw Powersteering Pump Rebuild Not 56K!!

A popular modification of swapping the old C2 pump out in favor of the better flowing Saginaw model brought me to the salvage yard where I pulled a pump and bracket off of a '91 Econoline van. This write up covers the rebuild of the pump itself, not the swap. That will come later.Total time was about an hour and a half, with interuptions, w/o it probably would have taken an hour. It's fairly easy to do. So if you're planning on doing the swap and don't want to spend the $$ to buy a new pump do the rebuild. All pics are on my SuperFord site. Enjoy.

Here's the pump and bracket after I brought it home.



Powersteering pump rebuild kit ordered from Advance, cost $15 bucks.



Used a pulley puller to separate the pump from the bracket. You'll need to do this for the rebuild.



Now I put it in a vise to remove the high pressure fitting and the other retaining bolt for the resevoir. The high pressure fitting takes a 1 inch wrench. It took some effort to turn it.



Top bolt removed


High pressure fitting removed this is the flow valve behind it. There is a seal on the high pressure fitting that will be replaced.


With the bolts removed from the resevoir and the unit in the vise, take a soft rubber mallet and hit the resevoir. The can should come right off.


This is what it will look like once the can has been removed.


In this pic you can see three of the seals that will be replaced.


In this pic you can see the retaining ring for the pump plate. This has to be removed. The is a small hole on the outside of the pump big enough to get a punch into. I gave the punch a couple of taps and the snap ring moved to where I could get it with a pick.


Here the retaining ring is about to come out. Be careful as there is a spring behind this that will cause the plate to shoot out if you're not careful.



With the retaining clip off the plate will now come out.


This is the spring behind the retaining plate.


I now removed the two other seals with my pick.


Flip the unit over and hit the shaft with a rubber mallet or hammer. Use something to protect the shaft from damage and small block of wood or something would work well. I was too lazy to do this.


I wound up putting it back in the vise and using a small socket to get the shaft the rest of the way out.


The internals of the pump coming out.


These parts will all come out before you complete remove the shaft from the pump. Make sure you don't lose any of the small flat pieces, they are the vanes.


Shaft assembly


The inside of the pump housing with everything removed.


The shaft had some scoring on it, so I used some fine grit sand paper and smoothed it out.


Remove the two large o-rings from inside of he pump. It was a little tricky getting the new ones to fit.


Removing the shaft seal was a pain, I wound up using a small chisel and then pried it up.


Jumping ahead, b/c the shaft seal was not wanting to come out I put the large o-ring on the case, this is the one that seals the resevoir to the housing.


Finally got the old seal out, and installed the new one. I used a socket the same size as the seal and gently tapped it in.


Installing the new inner o-rings.


Reinstalling the shaft. I used a rubber mallet to tap it down, it went in pretty easily. It was at this point, I realized I had forgotten to replace the bushing the shaft goes through. Screw it, I didn't want to take it apart again.


Put all of the vanes back in their respective slots and put the inner part of the pump back over it. There were two metal rods that came out upon disassembly that will be resinstalled here. It looks like they can fit in two different places, but only one set of the holes will work. They will press firmly into place.


Install the next part, again it can only go in one way so be patient. Once you get it right it will drop right in.


New seals for the fittings installed.


I used my u-joint press to push the plate down so I could get the retaining ring on, the pressure from the spring behind it makes it impossible to do by hand. A regular c-clamp would work just as well. Once the snap ring is in place, the rebuild is complete. Put your resevoir back on and your good to go.


Cleaned up the resevoir. It was covered in grease as most salvage yard parts are.


The resevoir for my pump on had the two holes, some have a 3rd hole. Make sure the high pressure fitting hole and the other bolt hole are both lined up.


After lubing the o-ring on the pump with some powersteering fluid. Lightly tap the resevoir on with a rubber mallet. (Note, the resevoir will not seat the whole way.) When the bolts are reinstalled it will tighten it up against the pump.


Reinsert the spring.


Reinsert the flow valve. It has been said you shouldn't reuse the flow valve. I cleaned mine of with carb cleaner and it was good to go.


Put the high pressure fitting bolt in. Again this uses a 1 inch wrench.


Put the top retaining bolt in and tighten it down this bolt head is very short so be careful when tightening. I used an 18 mm closed end wrench for this.


And the pump is rebuilt.




Here the pump is reinstalled in the bracket, almost ready to put in the Bronco. Just need to put the pulley back on.


The pulley has been put back on and the pump is ready to be installed.


Next issue the pump will go in the Bronco. :thumbup

The installation of the Saginaw pump.

To install the pump, remove the tubes from the airbox to the throttle body, this will allow access to the top A/C compressor.


The A/C is now accessable.


Remove the serp belt.


Disconnect the A/C harness.


Start to remove the A/C bolts.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile.php?id=126376&toggle=fullsize&filename=Dcp01284.jpg

Once all of the bolts are removed use a bungee cord to hold the compressor out of the way. The bracket is now easily accessable.


Next I'll remove the high pressure line from the pump and then the gear box.
My old C2 pump was really beat up. The plastic pulley was even chipped as was the top part of the resevoir.




It's a tight fit, but you'll be able to get a wrench in there to take the pressure fitting off.




The pressure fitting removed from the pump. At this point, don't forget to remove the return line otherwise you'll have a difficult time taking the pump out.


Now you can remove the bolts from the pump bracket, there are 3 bolts and one nut.


It was a little dirty behind the pump. The bracket w/pump will lift right out, make sure to remove the return line.


So here they are side by side, the most noticeable difference is the C2 resevoir is much smaller than the Saginaw, and it's also made of plastic. The C2 uses a plastic pulley and the Saginaw's is steel. What were they thinking. In addition, the bolts used to secure the A/C compressor to the bracket are larger in diameter so it requires some drilling.


Here you can see the difference in the diameter of the compressor bolts. The one on the right works with the Saginaw bracket.


I located a bit that would allow me to ream the holes out to the appropriate size. Basically I just matched the diameter of the bolts with the drill bit and went to work. This was a little tricky.


These aluminum shavings will go everywhere so be careful you don't get them into your airbox or throttle body.


Mount the high pressure hose. I reused my old hose, but had to use a tube bender to get the correct bend in it. This is not very difficult, you can pick a bender up for about $10 bucks at your local auto parts store.


Now the bracket with Sag pump goes back in.


Reinstall the bolts.


The pumps in the return line is attached.


Here is a better angle of the bend I put in the high pressure hose to make it fit at the gear box. Make sure the fitting threads properly into the gear box.


Put the A/C back on.


Reinstall the serpentine belt. I put the stock one on but it felt to tight so I stepped up one size. Don't forget to add powersteering fluid.


This is the model serp belt I used, works perfectly.


Finally a video of the pump in action, it works really well. This has to be one of the best dollar for dollar mods I've done so far.

Click here for video...Now you can do your own Saginaw powersteering pump swap. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fireguy50 said:
Why not dod this in Bronco Driver????????????????????????????????????????
Thanks guys, Ryan that's not a bad idea. Who should I contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bump, added more pics, finished rebuild. Ryan you have a PM.
 

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Bronco install write-up to follow soon?
The above write up was great. An install write up for us lackies would be great. Especially with all the detail and step by step your provide.
 

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Great write up Jer. But this part is a bit misleading, please clarify:

It was at this point, I realized I had forgotten to replace the bushing the shaft goes through. Screw it, I didn't want to take it apart again.
When you say you didn't replace the bushings you're saying you still used the old ones, correct? Sort of made it sound like you didn't use bushings at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Guess I should have been more clear on that. I wound up leaving the old bushing in, the pump shaft goes through this bushing. I had already installed the shaft seal and didn't want to go back and take it out.

Yes a Bronco install write up with lots of pics will follow soon. Hopefully this weekend. :thumbup
 

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Can you alter that flow valve out to increase steering force? My Sag doesn't seem to have the pressure it did when I first put it in, but nothing in your rebuild would seem to fix a weak pump, no? :shrug
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure if I really understand your question. The Saginaw by design flows much better than the C2. However, I'm sure you could alter the flow by increasing the size of the hole in the flow valve, but if your Saginaw is lacking pressure it just might be in need of a rebuild, and that's easy enough to do.
 

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awesome write up man, a girl could even follow these easy to follow directions. now, I just wish it was for a 79 and i would be in buisness.
 

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Thanks. Be careful though, there's some women on this site that might take offense at that..
 

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Saw you write up in Bronco Driver, nice work. i had one question cause im gonna do this soon. I got the pump and bracket. but no bolts. I was curious as to how big the bolts are? I dont wanna have to go to the store half way through the install. Thanks
 

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jermil01 said:
Not sure if I really understand your question. The Saginaw by design flows much better than the C2. However, I'm sure you could alter the flow by increasing the size of the hole in the flow valve, but if your Saginaw is lacking pressure it just might be in need of a rebuild, and that's easy enough to do.
http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/pwrstr.htm
 

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i just completed my rebuild but i replaced the bushing also, not knowing it was going to be a PITA. the best way to remove it is with a press and a seal/bearing driver. IT will come out very hard. When you go to install it you must use a toll like a bearing seal driver to keep it from twisting or rolling the edge over, again the press works best but if you use a hammer you could get a burr or two on the edge that will have to be cleaned up before installing the shaft.
 

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ok, dumb question. how do you take the pully off, i looked at it today while working on my center console. do you stick a big allen wrench in it a turn it? cause it would not budge an inch. help me im retarded :brownbag
 
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