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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I've seen a few Saginaw pump install threads, but don't know if I've seen one for the 300.

I had been wanting to do a Saginaw pump install on my Bronco for some time now. It didn't necessarily need it, but the original pump that came with the Bronco whined so badly that when I was driving up to the house, my wife could hear the whine of the pump before she could hear the exhaust. I finally replaced the pump with one from a parts truck, but it leaked continuously. I wanted a new pump, but wasn't going to spend money on an original when there was something better out there.

Finding an earlier era E-series van with a 300 in it at the junk yard was a bit of a test of patience, but I finally tracked one down. Unfortunately, the only part left was the bracket that bolted to the engine. I grabbed it anyway and then grabbed the rest of the setup from a van with the V8. They looked like they'd fit just fine.

They don't! The setup for the Saginaw pump has two brackets. One that bolts to engine block and one that bolts to the pump. The 302/351 pump bracket looks like it would fit the 300 block bracket, but the bolt holes are about 1/4" too far apart:

The 300 block bracket:







The v8 bracket will bolt to the I6 bracket but since the bolt holes for the pivot and the adjuster are too far apart, you can only get one in. They almost go together.






So, I had to go back to the junk yard. Fortunately, I really lucked out the second trip as I found another van that the engine was missing in, but the pump was still present and had the 300 pump bracket in it. Plus, they had another van in that also had a 300 and the full pump setup was present, so I grabbed it all. I now had to full, complete setups with pumps, brackets, and hoses.

The I6 pump bracket is a flat piece that bolts to the front of the pump instead of bolting to both sides like the V8 bracket does.





Neither pump had a cap on it, so I started to get worried that they might be full of contaminants. I had already found grit and sand inside the casing, and I didn't want any of that getting into my system and destroying my Red Head steering gear. As such, I went and bought a remanufactured one from O'Reilly for $40.

It was the style without the housing (the one that came with the housing was $65), so I just swapped it over.



The hardest part was loosening the bolts that held the casing and the pump together.
It is MUCH easier to remove the nuts/bolts if I you can hold the pump still. I found that if I put the bracket onto the pump, I could hold it in place with a torque wrench since it fits into the adjuster. Works great:



The first one was the nut for the high pressure hose. It's a 1" socket.



I saw this trick on youTube. The second bolt is rather shallow and is synched down TIGHT. Since it's so shallow, the wrench easily came off. It helped greatly to hold the wrench on with a washer and nut. This was a 17mm or 11/16" nut (couldn't tell which).



Finally, gently prying with a crowbar separated the pump from the casing:



Here's the casing removed and cleaned out:





The new pump:





I removed the plastic plugs and then had to remove the inlet for the high pressure hose. The nut that holds it in place is also used to hold the casing on, so it needs to come out. Be careful as it's spring loaded.



Next, just tap the new pump in gently with a rubber mallet and help it along by tightening down the bolts.

After I was done, I swapped the pulley off the junk yard pump onto the new one. I could have easily done it myself with a rentable tool but just had O'Reilly do it while I was there (for free) since I was had to go back anyway. I could have used the original off of my stock pump, but noticed that it was smaller in diameter.



Here's where the difference comes in. Check out the diameter difference of the two pumps:



Next is the installation.

This is where I ran into some trouble and was REALLY glad that I grabbed both bracket setups. Apparently, there is a little bit of discrepancy. There are two styles of brackets as some years of timing covers have bolts with a stud on the head, where other timing covers have longer bolts that bolt directly to the cover. This also makes a big difference in pulley alignment.

Here's the different timing cover / PS pump bolts:



This is the bolts with the head studs:



The bracket that bolts directly to the timing cover:



The bracket that needs the studded bolt heads (note the big gap):



I originally tried the bracket that bolted right to the timing cover:



However, the pump didn't line up with any of the grooves on my balancer, so I had to swap it out for the bracket that used the studs. (Not pictured).

The 300 also uses a hold down bracket in the back.





There are some spacers that go between the bracket and the block. One of the ones I removed had a single fat spacer. Another one had the fat spacer and two more washers. I had to use two of the fat washers to get the pulley on the pump to line up straight with the balancer. Your miles may vary.



This is my only real gripe with the install. No matter how I set it up, the Saginaw pump wanted to line up with the middle groove on my 3 groove balancer.



My alternator has two grooves on the pulley and used the two inner grooves on the fan and balancer. Then, the outer groove on the balancer was used for the power steering pump. The Saginaw wanted to line up with the middle one.

So now, either my alternator only gets one belt, or the alternator and PS share one big belt. I decided to go with the later of the two and got a huge 61" belt to loop around the alternator, balancer, fan, and power steering pump on the middle groove, and then a second belt for just the inner groove on the alterator / fan. It almost feels like a serpentine belt setup. Not my preferred option, but it works just fine.





Next is the fluid lines. The stock low pressure line worked just fine. I didn't have to get a longer hose or do ANY modifications. It simply reached as is and tightened down onto the return port:



The high pressure line is a different story though. The original *would* fit just fine if the hose ends were the same. They're not though, and the original hose won't go into the Saginaw:

Left: Original
Right: Saginaw



The kit came with fresh O-Rings so I cleaned up the threads, removed the old O-ring, and installed teflon tape:

A pick set works great:


Fresh O-Ring:


It takes a little effort, but the end of the high pressure line from the van goes right in:



All done! Flushed the fluid and primed the pump and away I went. My stock pump never really struggled with my 32" tires, but man does it turn easily now! Not only that, but it is quiet. I am super happy with it.

My last step is to deal with the upper radiator hose. It likes to rest on the bracket and if bumped just right, it'll slide into the pulley. Under the right (wrong) circumstances, it'll cut into the hose. I'm going to research a different hose.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Alright! Fixed the radiator hose issue. Gates makes a hose for the 300, part number 25808. It worked out perfectly to move the hose away from the pump:



 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Subscribed for future reference, thanks AB
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Got a lead on a 300 from a 94 e150 that includes all the accessories, PS pump included. It looks like the pump above, should it be a Saginaw? I don't "need" the whole engine but I'd be willing to sit on it and slowly build it up for future needs. Meanwhile the sag would get put into immediate service

Edit: I realize that it has a serpentine pulley where as i'm running a v belt. But the brackets are my main concern
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Heya BigBlue,
Not totally sure on the serpentine vs v-belt pulley. It may simply be as easy as pressing the serpentine pulley off and putting a v-belt pulley on it.

But yeah, the stock Bronco/F-truck pump is visually very different than the Saginaw. And from all the ones I've seen, all Saginaw pumps (at least in Fords) look the same.
The brackets should all bolt up to your block. The main question is simply whether or not you can get a pulley to line up. Not 100% sure on that one, but I don't think it'd be a big issue.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Do the reman pumps come with a pulley? I'd assume not, but that would be cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Finally got some brackets from a 79, thanks to a member here.

I have two questions. You did use the factory van high pressure line, correct?

The other guy butchered the pulley from the 300, and sent a 302 pulley. Does your pulley have a concave backside, maybe half to 3/4 inch deep?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes. The Bronco's high pressure line comes in at an angle that won't go into the Saginaw. The low pressure from the Bronco works just fine since it's a soft line.
With the van's line, you have to twist it a bit to get it into place, but it works just fine.

I haven't looked in a while but yeah, I believe the backside is concave. Just as long as it lines up with your harmonic balancer.
 

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Alright! Fixed the radiator hose issue. Gates makes a hose for the 300, part number 25808. It worked out perfectly to move the hose away from the pump:



I was in the middle of researching a possible Sag swap for my truck if/when my newish stock pump goes out, and I noticed how you had to change your stock upper rad hose. After a closer look, it appears that your rad hose was simply switched around by whoever put it on (water outlet end attached to rad inlet), so the stock hose should work when attached correctly (see image below):



Not meaning to nitpick, just wanted to point it out to save any future readers another trip to the parts store!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I wonder what hose you have. I tried reversing it several times and there was simply no way.
I also wondered if maybe you had the non-AC radiator, but I see you have the compressor, so you probably do.
I then wondered if you had the later year radiator (starting in '85 I think) that has plastic sides on it and uses a different hose/mounting/routing, but you have an '81 like me.

I've also looked for another hose that might route differently to no avail.
So... now you have me wondering what hose you have! I tried tackling this lots of different ways. :D

However, that flexible hose with the 90° bend works beautifully, if nothing else.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Mine has the same rad hose as I6 kid. No a.c., with a thin radiator. It's plenty out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There's a 21.5" wide radiator and a 27.5" wide one. The 27.5" was for A/C and/or heavy duty cooling and uses a completely different hose than the 21.5" (since it's the outlet side that extends).

Dunno though, I just know I did a lot of searching/researching, etc. the first time I did a Saginaw swap on my '84 and came up empty handed. A few years later when I did a Saginaw swap on my '81, I did research again, and had a bunch of forum discussions about the topic on here and over on ford-trucks.com and nada.

Weird!


Oh well, good to know there's one that works somewhere. :D
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Hmm, my radiator is definitely not 21".

 
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