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im planning on sanding down my bronco and using some rattle can primer on it. this is just something temporary and i dont expect it to look perfect just something to keep surface rust from spreading. i started to hand sand and my arm got tired fast so i got a sanding kit for an angle grinder. my question is that when i use it it goes straight to the metal. is that to far? maybe use a different sand paper?
 

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Areas that have anything more than mild surface rust should be taken down to bare metal.
 

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Lick my balls
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Areas that have anything more than mild surface rust should be taken down to bare metal.
Why just anything more, even mild surface rust will develope into something more serious. But to answer the posters question, yes, you are sanding too much if all you are doing is primering it. Just scuff the truck with 220 - 280 grit and sand down any rust bubbles by hand to level it and primer it. Don't get too picky since anything you sand to bare metal will just rust again since primer does not stop moisture from penetrating to the bare metal.
 

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green ones make me horny
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I would just use a red scothbrite and some comet on the whole thing first, then sand the rust bubbles, and then primer it. just make sure there is a no glossy paint before you prime it. I still dont understand why you would want to just prime it, it will do more harm then leaving your shotty paiunt on there. just like walt said it will absorb water.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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I would never sand my truck with an angle grinder, regardless of what quailty paint job I was going to do. Especialy if you have plans in the future for a higher quality job. You will be kicking youself later.

You need to be using something that is dual action (DA), such as a DA sander.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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F.O.T.M. - MAY 2014!!!
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I wanted to lose all the gloss, I sanded and sprayed Krylon flat black paint then wet sanded it to make it more even.
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Lick my balls
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Why would you want to wetsand flat black?

Nevermind, I read your post again and see you wanted it even.
Even with wanting it even, I still don't understand why:doh0715:, but that's just me.
 

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Don't get too picky since anything you sand to bare metal will just rust again since primer does not stop moisture from penetrating to the bare metal.
That's a point our man has to consider !

especially in Winter too. You may just be opening up a larger area to rust. painted is sealed. Sand that off and you're leaving a primered area open to water and moisture.

Sixlitre
 

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i like the way that looks. is that the primer on there or is that a paint on top of it? where did you get the rust inhibitor primer at? would a local parts store have it? thanks for the advice everyone

got it from eastwood.com. i did the rattle can, but should have got the gun to do it right, oh well. like you its only temp. any bare metel was shoot with a self etching primer and any rust was shot with a rust converter. just primer right now, after the motor work is done it will be done in a "rat rod black" style
 

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Lick my balls
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got it from eastwood.com. i did the rattle can, but should have got the gun to do it right, oh well. like you its only temp. any bare metel was shoot with a self etching primer and any rust was shot with a rust converter. just primer right now, after the motor work is done it will be done in a "rat rod black" style
Not trying to sound like a dick, but why did you bother with the rust converter? Once again primer, even two part primer, will not stop moisture.
 

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i stripped my tailgate down to bare metal, well stripped it using a rapid strip disc. it leaves small scratches in the metal that are gone when a sandable primer is used. i dont like the grinder sander kits, they dont do a good job and in my opinion arent worth it.

to run a ds sander you need a large compressor and good air supply. i have one, but it doesnt get into tight places and the rapid strip pads are a little more flexable
 

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Not trying to sound like a dick, but why did you bother with the rust converter? Once again primer, even two part primer, will not stop moisture.
its all good, used it on my rear bumper were i couldn't grined/ cut out the rust, so far so good. i know it will never be a show truck, just looking to get some more time out of it and it will be shot with paint..or dare i say scraped after/before i do the motor. "thats life in the big city" keep it or wreck it, keeps me up at night:banghead
 

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what about rust bullet or rust proofing the outside before primer? I know i probably sound stupid but i was gonna flat black my truck because of all the scratches from trail riding and such this summer and only have to worry bout grabbing another can and covering them up LOL
 

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i sanded my entire 'vette with two pieces of 320 on a DA sander, it was a scuff job to remove old and loose paint. i figure if i did the bronco i could get by with 220

if you don't intend to paint over it right away regular primer won't do any good
the painter at work was telling me about primer/sealers but i'm not exactly sure what the deal is with them, he mentioned one primer he uses that will protect the metal while in bare primer but i'm not sure which it is
 

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F.O.T.M. - MAY 2014!!!
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Even with wanting it even, I still don't understand why:doh0715:, but that's just me.
Have you ever tried to rattlecan something flat black? The lines show up like a tiger, how would you suggest getting them to even out Walt?
 

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Lick my balls
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he mentioned one primer he uses that will protect the metal while in bare primer but i'm not sure which it is
It is an expensive 2 part primer that is used for bare metal. I can't remember now how well it withstands the environment, but it is better than any primer I've used and is also very expensive and an outside air source is recommended.

Have you ever tried to rattlecan something flat black? The lines show up like a tiger, how would you suggest getting them to even out Walt?
Get a spray paint that has a larger fan, overlap by 50% and spray horizontally with one coat and the second coat is applied vertically.
 
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