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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
not to sound like a noob or anything but i know nothing about axels, does anyone make a kit so i can just add leafs out front and put a solid axel in, kinds like a kit that comes with hanger brackets and leafspring mounts, i dont even know they make kits like that, a pirate 4X4 post said it was as easy as putting a solid axel on a toyota "what ever that means" is it that hard, can i run it with the stock transfer case, i assume u would have to get a custom front driveshaft. it isn;t gunna be a full crawler or a full mub bogger, its a dail driver and will be takin offroad on weekends, the reason for the conversion is everyone sais dont even waste your money a lift kit for the stock front axel and i actually see there point,

THANKS THANKS THANKS
 

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FSB's Resident A$$HOLE
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no, but do you actually wheel your truck? if not you can go with the fabritech coil kit, i believe it is mostly bolt on.

and since you arent very knowledgable in this subject, i think you should have a reputable shop do the work. there are too many ways to screw up with a swap, let someone else do it for yours and others safety.

oh ya, SEARCH NEWBIE

wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wich is better coil & radius arms or leafsprings

wich is better coilspings and radius arms or straight up leafsprings.

whats the deal with the driveshaft

and i did look but, and most of it is on questions dealing with components for the sas.

thanks
 

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TTB Hater of course
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First off, "kits" are for lazy TJ owners who don't want to have to think for themselves, don't want to get dirty and don't want to have to actually fab, design or measure anything.

Second, I can't believe you searched too thoroughly. We're glad to help but FSB helps those who help themselves. You've gotta educate yourself as best you can *first,* then we can address specific concerns.

A 10 second search turned up two threads that might help you a whole lot:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5480&highlight=leaf*

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2655&highlight=leaf*

I'd recommend reading those, then reading them again, then if you still have questions feel free to ask.

As for leafs or coils being better, that's like Ford vs Chevy. Search the entire web and you'll find all sorts of opinions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
WHAT ABOUT PRICE. how much would a normal conversion cost. i want a beefy axel but nothing huge, whats a good exel. what are the advatages of coils, and what are advantages of leafsprings.

thanks, when u poeple search u know what your looking for so its easier, i am a noob and do not know all these technical terms yet. thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
what about the driveshaft.
 

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Axles. Normally people either use D44 or D60. That doesnt mean you cant use a Portal, or Rockwell, it just seems for feasable to use a d44 or d60.

Also Leafs vs coils. I am going with leafs because it suits my needs better. But like Keith said it is going to be like arguing ford vs chev.
IMO I think the coil/radius arms are a bit more work for no more benefit. The leafs are always going to be there and are very cheap to build up or replace.
For example if you started out with a 6" lift using stock F250 leaf springs, then you can later go to an 8" lift by buying F350 springs at the junk yard and having them arched.
No other mods needed to the axle, the only thing you might need to mod is your driveline but again that is minor.
You would have to buy shocks too, but that goes with out saying.
If it was coil spring then you would have to buy longer coils, different c-bushings, modify the trac-bar, and sometimes modify the radius arm mounts. Not always.

Some people say that coils flex better than leafs, but i have seen both flex quite well.
Another token if leafs ever fade over time, they can be re-arched, coils would have to be replaced.

So thats just my 2 cents. There is no wrong way to do it unless you dont do it correctly. Clear as mud?

The driveline will bolt right up just fine using a D44 but if you went with a mog axle that would require some thought and moding.
 

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On coils you can keep your stock drive shaft. Not sure about leafs, but I don't see why you could not keep you stock shaft for that also. Usually you take this time to upgrade the shaft though. The 1310 don' t last all that long with lockers and some moderate wheeling.


As far as if you can do it or not, 1/2 the fun is the custom work if you can handle a wrench you can figure it out, just know what parts to have a pro do.
For example the trac bar mount.

money wise, there are allways deals out there, and it depends again on how much upgrades you do. I would estimate anywhere from 1,000 to 3,000 unless you buy a Dynatrac axle :thumbup

Bottom line research. figure what you can do and what you will have to pay others, and what upgrades your going to do now are later, all that figures into the cost.
 

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Price.
For me, not including wheel, tires, and a few other things:

Axle: $450.00 for a D44HD out of a 78 Ford F250. Outers swapped to 5 lug.

Shocks: $100.00 each x 4 for Bilstein 5150's from www.offroadunlimited.com

Fab: So far I think I have used about $30-40.00 in steel and consumables (Keith correct me if I am wrong).

Gears & Master install kits for both axles: $457.00, but that is because i got lucky on Ebay.

Misc. Parts: A few hundred bucks to replace axle bearings, u-joints, seals, ball joints, alignement cams, lube, and others Dont know yet.

This should give you an idear so far.
 

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Beerman said:
Axles. Normally people either use D44 or D60. That doesnt mean you cant use a Portal, or Rockwell, it just seems for feasable to use a d44 or d60.
ok, lets not confuse the lazy noob here. To say you don't know what to search is absurd by the way. you are in the friggin SAS section. read all the posts here and I am sure you will be enlightened Daniel-son.

Also Leafs vs coils. I am going with leafs because it suits my needs better. But like Keith said it is going to be like arguing ford vs chev.
IMO I think the coil/radius arms are a bit more work for no more benefit.
OK, I so want to rip apart your opinion here. That is a somewhat silly statement. How much fab are you doing right now? you are boxing a frame, running cross supports, making brackets, etc, etc right?. For coils, you make an upper trackbar bracket (and a lower if you want to do it the BEST way) and make or modify the radius arm brackets. i think coiils win in the ease of fabbing part there, or at least it is no more difficult. Lots of the coil stuff can be done by your average mechanic at home, then tow the bronco to someone that can fab a track bar for you. it would be on wheels just not streetable cause it would need the track bar to locate the axel. I personally feel that a coil swap is more non-welder/fabber friendly. I dint weld my trackbar brackets but i did everything else, so what does that say about the ease of it?

The leafs are always going to be there and are very cheap to build up or replace.

Huh? A new set of leaves would cost like 3 to 500 bucks last i loked for a set of REARS, not sure on fronts.

For example if you started out with a 6" lift using stock F250 leaf springs, then you can later go to an 8" lift by buying F350 springs at the junk yard and having them arched.

So i am curious, what would a set of leaves cost and then to have them rearched???? A set of coils is about 150 bucks


No other mods needed to the axle, the only thing you might need to mod is your driveline but again that is minor.
You would have to buy shocks too, but that goes with out saying.
need shocks for coils too so that is a push.


If it was coil spring then you would have to buy longer coils, different c-bushings, modify the trac-bar, and sometimes modify the radius arm mounts. Not always.

Yes on coils, no on c-bushings, maybe on track bar depending on how much llonger of a coil. If you were smart when you started, you made an adjustable trackbar, and no on changing the radius arm. So for the mathmeticians in the group, one thing you said is correct, one thing is a remote maybe, and two are flat out wrong.


Some people say that coils flex better than leafs, but i have seen both flex quite well.

Although heavily debated, i think it is silly personally. how much flex do you really get out of either unless there is some fairly involved fab work. Plus, how much travel do you really need for a street and trail rig. otherwise go 4 link wih coilovers or something.

Another token if leafs ever fade over time, they can be re-arched, coils would have to be replaced.
Again, lets see a cost comparison here.


So thats just my 2 cents. There is no wrong way to do it unless you dont do it correctly. Clear as mud?
The driveline will bolt right up just fine using a D44 but if you went with a mog axle that would require some thought and moding.


really, it bothers me when you sit there and talk about coil spring swaps when you havent done one. It would be like me telling you how hard a leaf swap is when I have never done it and would be talking out of my ass.




edit- you need to read my responses to your quote in the body of your quote, for some reason it didnt work like I had hoped, meaning I asnwered individual comments of yours

zillaedit.. i think i fixed the quote thing you were trying to do..
 

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plug ugly said:
edit- you need to read my responses to your quote in the body of your quote, for some reason it didnt work like I had hoped, meaning I asnwered individual comments of yours
Damon, I'm not gonna get too involved 'cause I think we're already bordering on arguing religion here.............but you might want to consider different model years. Beerman's front xmember is a bit more involved due to the crumple zones.

When I did my swap I didn't have a welder so I drove to a buddy's shop and the extent of the fab was this:



That's extremely basic fab by anyone's standards. Everything else was bolt-on. I can certainly see a lot of advantages to coils but I'm not gonna go into them.

'Nuf said, you guys have fun knocking yourselves over the head.
 

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plug ugly said:
by the way, Mr. Chevyboat, this is for Ford geeks not you chevy ****. even if you have a ford axle.

When did you sign up Bill? I thought you just lurked

well sad to say wt has gotten a little boring so I thought it would be fun to be the chevy guy in a ford forum. Besides, I know little about some shit. Its all nuts bolts in the big scheme of things.
 

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Damon and I have talked a little about this crumple zone thing. What years have it?

As far as arguing leafs vs coils, its all in the install both have issues that can be enginered out. The fun is in the building.
 

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so the assumption is if you have a 92-96 than you do coils to avoid the crumple zone?

Although if you have a ttb your almost to a sas anyway, and if you have a d44 well the d60 is cake, well some old story all in the install.
 

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Keith_L said:
Damon, I'm not gonna get too involved 'cause I think we're already bordering on arguing religion here.............but you might want to consider different model years. Beerman's front xmember is a bit more involved due to the crumple zones.

When I did my swap I didn't have a welder so I drove to a buddy's shop and the extent of the fab was this:



That's extremely basic fab by anyone's standards. Everything else was bolt-on. I can certainly see a lot of advantages to coils but I'm not gonna go into them.

'Nuf said, you guys have fun knocking yourselves over the head.
agreed Keith, I just find the more blanket statements to be misleading to the noobs, and they piss me off in general. you and I have had several conversations regarding this topic, and I amequally impressed with both set ups if they are done right. i ust find it insulting when someone makes statements about something, but doesnt have the experience with te particular install to comment.
Like you said, just the same old ford v. chevy or auto v. stick argument. Build it right and it works
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
doesn't the track bar have to be paralel to then steering rod

i have figured out that i probably am gunna go with some radius arms and some 8" lift coils. i dont know if this stands for cross over steering only but does the track bar have to be paralel to the steering arm, and is the trac bar another name for a panhardbar, i think the steering rod is the draglink or something. or is the panhard bar only for the rear.
 

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awe fawk, there goes this ford site, I am going back to MBB now that there is a chevy member here. :goodfinge
 
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