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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I'm thinking it might be wise to part the 05 SD and got back to drivng the Bronco full time as I will be now taking a job in a rough part of town and working off hours. My main concern is my lift will be fairly mild 35's and coils I'm not to worried if the ride is harsh of soft, I like a bit of a firm ride to feel the road the axle will be a D44.
I gather that it should ride and drive better but honesly is it true cause I'm kinda tired of fighting the wheel in a straight line. Most of my drive will be interstate a 65 mph other than that rural roads and city streets about 35 mph. Thats the one of the main reasons I got my SD, other than the fact I blew the tranny, and wanted more space for my future child to ride in with a real door to wrangle the car seat from..
Alright so shoot and yea I did search just couldnt find anything conclusive.
 

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My TTB has always tracked perfectly down the road... it does need new bushings and TREs now, but otherwise has worked flawless.

Still not a good reason for spending thousands on a solid swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its seems the 92 to 96 had the best handeling while the 80 to 91 had the worse. Also after breaking my axle shaft and inter u joint I'm looking for something that can be built a bit easier, its hard to find stout TTB axles.
I would rather spend the money once and be done as apossed to keep having to fix a dead horse.
 

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TTB50 stub shaft.

33" tires on a TTB should give you little to no problems. That Ujoint might have just had it (they do get old :rofl:) and took out your stub shaft with it... the d50 stub is a good upgrade.
 

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TTB50 stub shaft.

33" tires on a TTB should give you little to no problems. That Ujoint might have just had it (they do get old :rofl:) and took out your stub shaft with it... the d50 stub is a good upgrade.
I'd have to agree you really have to abuse TTB parts on 33's to break them. That being said I was still pissed after I broke 2 stub shafts in 4 days
 

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I'd have to agree you really have to abuse TTB parts on 33's to break them. That being said I was still pissed after I broke 2 stub shafts in 4 days
Dude, I so want to see the first piece of carnage from your job at Oshkosh.

It's going to be epic. :thumbup :histerica
 

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I dont see why you couldn't. If you are in fact moving up to 35's. Another question to ask here is this. Are you still going to try and wheel this vehicle or just DD it? If you want to make a DD/wheeler then you need to figure that out .

Basically I am saying get an idea of what the full purpose of your truck is going to be. Ok you said it would be for work, but are you also going to go on family trips with it, wheel it (like I said earlier). What is the all around purpose? I understand what you are saying here about fixing the dead horse I am battling that too. So this question is in my head. For me I am just going to build it slow and eventually swap it in. Drive your BKO for a couple months like it is. Then decide.

Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TTB50 stub shaft.

33" tires on a TTB should give you little to no problems. That Ujoint might have just had it (they do get old :rofl:) and took out your stub shaft with it... the d50 stub is a good upgrade.
The u joints were less than a year old
I'd have to agree you really have to abuse TTB parts on 33's to break them. That being said I was still pissed after I broke 2 stub shafts in 4 days
Well it was a rocky section on a logging road with moderate throttle, not wheel hop.
Dude, I so want to see the first piece of carnage from your job at Oshkosh.

It's going to be epic. :thumbup :histerica
I would like to hear about this as well?
I dont see why you couldn't. If you are in fact moving up to 35's. Another question to ask here is this. Are you still going to try and wheel this vehicle or just DD it? If you want to make a DD/wheeler then you need to figure that out .

Basically I am saying get an idea of what the full purpose of your truck is going to be. Ok you said it would be for work, but are you also going to go on family trips with it, wheel it (like I said earlier). What is the all around purpose? I understand what you are saying here about fixing the dead horse I am battling that too. So this question is in my head. For me I am just going to build it slow and eventually swap it in. Drive your BKO for a couple months like it is. Then decide.

Just my .02
I will be of course driving it daily to work and to take small family trips in it to town, out to eat, to the movies, for my daughter to the Dr in bad weather, or on fire and ems calls. Yes I will wheel it and might tow it for farther off trips to Tellico, Coal Creek but drive it to closer trails on Aethna Mtn. Its sucks being stranded from home or having to limp it home, something I know all to well about and reason I got my Super Duty. I always have prefered driving the Bronco, heck in all I have had three, and its a hell of a lot easier to park it crowded urban parking lots, yeah malls too, than a crew cab long bed F250. I dont have the option of driving it for months as right now I dont want the stub to frag my hub or ring and pinion thing is knocking like a b#*ch. Also I have to get a new starter and rear tail gate w window plus windo switch so it will ahve to have some more work dont to it before it drives daily. I was looking at a 3 mo down time hopefuly to get things squared away.
 

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I dont have the option of driving it for months as right now I dont want the stub to frag my hub or ring and pinion thing is knocking like a b#*ch. Also I have to get a new starter and rear tail gate w window plus windo switch so it will ahve to have some more work dont to it before it drives daily. I was looking at a 3 mo down time hopefuly to get things squared away.
If you're not in 4-wheel drive the stub wont turn or make any noise. Not to mention if it's broke and you can just pull off the slip yoke. I drove with no stub shaft for a while with no issues
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you're not in 4-wheel drive the stub wont turn or make any noise. Not to mention if it's broke and you can just pull off the slip yoke. I drove with no stub shaft for a while with no issues
I can pull it off but when I turn the bronco it drives me crazy along with the nice whine of the old ford ps pump. The removal would eliminate the knock but then I would not have four wheel drive something I need in a daily driver.
 

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I can pull it off but when I turn the bronco it drives me crazy along with the nice whine of the old ford ps pump.
I was thinking the inner stub shaft, if you broke the u-joint at the wheel then I understand. But those are easy to replace (20 minutes)and available everywhere
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was thinking the inner stub shaft, if you broke the u-joint at the wheel then I understand. But those are easy to replace (20 minutes)and available everywhere
Yes they are easy to replace and I have the parts in the parts pile out back I'm just wanting to get a sas, kinda keeping my wife in the dark about being able to fix that darn thing asI have wanted a sas bronco for about five years now. I'm taking a job that will make the build possible now and have enought help and resources to use just making the final weigh in before I go to the point of no return and since I'm wanting to use ot for a dd again wanted to check with everyone whom has done this.
 
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