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SAS Dana44 X-member issues

I have an '80 BKO that picked up for $1. No joke, a buck (IE the name, cheap fun). The frame was bent. Got it pulled. I'm in the process of swapping in a Dana44 coil sprung front that I got complete for $200 from a dead '79 BKO. It came w/ radius arms, brakes, sway bar, a posi, & the steering linkage. I've already mocked it up in the rig with 4" lift springs from a '79, 2" radius arm drop brackets,a 4" drop pitman arm & extended shocks. I'm reusing the '80 spring buckets, even though they are about 3" lower than the '79. I have the brake lines figured out & the driveline. My problem is that even with the longer springs & lower buckets, I'm pretty sure that the diff will crash into the engine crossmember on suspension uptravel. How much material can I safely remove from this crossmember without weakening it too much or should I cut it out altogether & start over? I'm not afraid to cut out the crossmember with my torch but, it will lead to quite a bit more fabrication (which is not my strongest skill). I would rather notch out the existing crossmember if possible. Any input help. Thanks.
 

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I have an '80 BKO that picked up for $1. No joke, a buck (IE the name, cheap fun). The frame was bent. Got it pulled. I'm in the process of swapping in a Dana44 coil sprung front that I got complete for $200 from a dead '79 BKO. It came w/ radius arms, brakes, sway bar, a posi, & the steering linkage. I've already mocked it up in the rig with 4" lift springs from a '79, 2" radius arm drop brackets,a 4" drop pitman arm & extended shocks. I'm reusing the '80 spring buckets, even though they are about 3" lower than the '79. I have the brake lines figured out & the driveline. My problem is that even with the longer springs & lower buckets, I'm pretty sure that the diff will crash into the engine crossmember on suspension uptravel. How much material can I safely remove from this crossmember without weakening it too much or should I cut it out altogether & start over? I'm not afraid to cut out the crossmember with my torch but, it will lead to quite a bit more fabrication (which is not my strongest skill). I would rather notch out the existing crossmember if possible. Any input help. Thanks.
Here is how I did mine.









GKR has a complete custom xmember that is bad ass.
 

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GKR? Will you a link? Did you just bend your power steering cooler out of the way? Where did you get that beefy steering linkage? Did you just cut out the pieces that were in the way? BTW your truck is rad!
 

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Have you trail tested it yet? I'm notoriously hard on my rigs, I just want to make sure it can handle some medium abuse. How much lift did you put in with your springs? Sorry to blow you up with questions but, it's been sitting for 6 weeks & it's driving me nuts. Thanks for the greart pics!
 

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GKR? Will you a link? Did you just bend your power steering cooler out of the way? Where did you get that beefy steering linkage? Did you just cut out the pieces that were in the way? BTW your truck is rad!
GKR http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73349&page=2

My power steering cooler is just bent up. I will run some lines to a cooler when I get there.

Steering is from these guys.http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

I just cut the most out of my xmember I was comfortable with. I have seen some cut that much and no bracing welded in which can lead to it cracking.
 

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Have you trail tested it yet? I'm notoriously hard on my rigs, I just want to make sure it can handle some medium abuse. How much lift did you put in with your springs? Sorry to blow you up with questions but, it's been sitting for 6 weeks & it's driving me nuts. Thanks for the greart pics!
No I have not really driven it other than around the yard. It is a work in progress and I am in no rush to get it done.

The springs are 4". Plus I cut out 1" of the upper buckets. Altogether I have about 6"s of suspension lift in the front plus 3" body lift.

Here is my SAS.http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144761
 

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ate lug
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Have you trail tested it yet? I'm notoriously hard on my rigs, I just want to make sure it can handle some medium abuse.
I removed more than that on mine, and beat the hell out of it for over 3 years now with no problems to that xmember. However, i do think thats the best way to do it (adding that lip) and have been planning on doing it, just hasnt happened yet.
 

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With the 78/79 stock radius arms, would it be possible to find a Heim joint with female threads that could screw onto the end of the arms, rather than modifying them to use a male-threaded joint. Has anyone done this?
 

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If you could have a machine shop thread one end of a really thick walled piece of DOM for the hiem you want and the other side for the radius arm, but I still wouldn't trust that. A short, thick section of DOM welded and plug welded to the shank on the radius arm and the open end threaded for the hiem my be better/safer. Still better to box the arms and extend them a little.
 

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If you could have a machine shop thread one end of a really thick walled piece of DOM for the hiem you want and the other side for the radius arm, but I still wouldn't trust that. A short, thick section of DOM welded and plug welded to the shank on the radius arm and the open end threaded for the hiem my be better/safer. Still better to box the arms and extend them a little.
Thank you, I was thinking more along the lines of just buying a hiem joint with female threads. Midwest Control Products make several, but I need to measure the end of the radius arm to see if they have a size to fit. For my build, I am looking at about 4" of lift and wont need a ton of articulation. This is more along the lines of what I was talking about, but I'm not sure if it would be strong enough or if it has been tried before.
Thanks, Jordan
 

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You shouldn't have a problem with a female heim, they usually carry the same specs as the male version. Thing you need to check is what size bolt the RA uses. I'd say for this to work (and have reasonable strength) that bolt should be around 1" dia.+ and then check the thread count.

FK rod ends, Auorora, etc. all do female heims. But be careful here, there is a big difference from a cheap heim to the more expensive ones in terms of 1) strength, and 2) longevity of the bearing (look for one that uses a bearing supported in a teflon, or kevlar or nylon race. These are non-metal to metal, last longer/stay tighter and should not make much, if any noise from street vibes). Spidertrax, ruffstuff, any of the 4x4 shops can hook you up with a pair of good ones. Also, if this looks like a go, check your thread. Not sure if you will need a left and right, or just 2 standard pitch rights.
 

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Thank you Shadofax. This is probably the route I will try to go, providing I find hiems with the appropriate dimensions. I'm still in the research and parts collecting phase but in about 6 months when I do the build I will post the part numbers I find.
Jordan
 

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putting camburg hangers and heims on rad arms

woundering if any one had some pics or could help with where i should be mounting as i know im limited by the lenght of the heim but none of the holes line up to any stock holes and the body mount is in the way also????
 

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I'm picking up a D70 out of a 84 F350 single wheel this weekend, I wanted to know, Since they supposedly do not support VSS do I actually have a VSS equipted vehicle? If so can I bypass this? I have an 89 EB. Thanks!
(Btw I did search, but unlike all other forums I've belonged to, all searches came back like 500+ pages haha)
 

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I'm picking up a D70 out of a 84 F350 single wheel this weekend, I wanted to know, Since they supposedly do not support VSS do I actually have a VSS equipted vehicle? If so can I bypass this? I have an 89 EB. Thanks!
(Btw I did search, but unlike all other forums I've belonged to, all searches came back like 500+ pages haha)
you do not need a VSS equipped rear axle, so get it.
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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will do. thank you very much.

**EDIT**
Actually I can't find, What front differential came in the same 1 ton f350's from same year? I find a lot of info for D60's from 77-80 or somethin, then its all 86+. I was told the 84 has IFS, meaning it is a solid axle correct?
 

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will do. thank you very much.

**EDIT**
Actually I can't find, What front differential came in the same 1 ton f350's from same year? I find a lot of info for D60's from 77-80 or somethin, then its all 86+. I was told the 84 has IFS, meaning it is a solid axle correct?
ttb actually, not solid.
 
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