off of a chevy 10 bolt:
Here is how I did mine.I have an '80 BKO that picked up for $1. No joke, a buck (IE the name, cheap fun). The frame was bent. Got it pulled. I'm in the process of swapping in a Dana44 coil sprung front that I got complete for $200 from a dead '79 BKO. It came w/ radius arms, brakes, sway bar, a posi, & the steering linkage. I've already mocked it up in the rig with 4" lift springs from a '79, 2" radius arm drop brackets,a 4" drop pitman arm & extended shocks. I'm reusing the '80 spring buckets, even though they are about 3" lower than the '79. I have the brake lines figured out & the driveline. My problem is that even with the longer springs & lower buckets, I'm pretty sure that the diff will crash into the engine crossmember on suspension uptravel. How much material can I safely remove from this crossmember without weakening it too much or should I cut it out altogether & start over? I'm not afraid to cut out the crossmember with my torch but, it will lead to quite a bit more fabrication (which is not my strongest skill). I would rather notch out the existing crossmember if possible. Any input help. Thanks.
GKR http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73349&page=2GKR? Will you a link? Did you just bend your power steering cooler out of the way? Where did you get that beefy steering linkage? Did you just cut out the pieces that were in the way? BTW your truck is rad!
No I have not really driven it other than around the yard. It is a work in progress and I am in no rush to get it done.Have you trail tested it yet? I'm notoriously hard on my rigs, I just want to make sure it can handle some medium abuse. How much lift did you put in with your springs? Sorry to blow you up with questions but, it's been sitting for 6 weeks & it's driving me nuts. Thanks for the greart pics!
I removed more than that on mine, and beat the hell out of it for over 3 years now with no problems to that xmember. However, i do think thats the best way to do it (adding that lip) and have been planning on doing it, just hasnt happened yet.Have you trail tested it yet? I'm notoriously hard on my rigs, I just want to make sure it can handle some medium abuse.
Thank you, I was thinking more along the lines of just buying a hiem joint with female threads. Midwest Control Products make several, but I need to measure the end of the radius arm to see if they have a size to fit. For my build, I am looking at about 4" of lift and wont need a ton of articulation. This is more along the lines of what I was talking about, but I'm not sure if it would be strong enough or if it has been tried before.If you could have a machine shop thread one end of a really thick walled piece of DOM for the hiem you want and the other side for the radius arm, but I still wouldn't trust that. A short, thick section of DOM welded and plug welded to the shank on the radius arm and the open end threaded for the hiem my be better/safer. Still better to box the arms and extend them a little.
Isn't that speed type stuff? As in non sas related?woundering if any one had some pics or could help with where i should be mounting as i know im limited by the lenght of the heim but none of the holes line up to any stock holes and the body mount is in the way also????
you do not need a VSS equipped rear axle, so get it.I'm picking up a D70 out of a 84 F350 single wheel this weekend, I wanted to know, Since they supposedly do not support VSS do I actually have a VSS equipted vehicle? If so can I bypass this? I have an 89 EB. Thanks!
(Btw I did search, but unlike all other forums I've belonged to, all searches came back like 500+ pages haha)
ttb actually, not solid.will do. thank you very much.
Actually I can't find, What front differential came in the same 1 ton f350's from same year? I find a lot of info for D60's from 77-80 or somethin, then its all 86+. I was told the 84 has IFS, meaning it is a solid axle correct?