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Hey all, been a minute since I've been around here. Had a lot going on the past couple of years, mostly good that's caused the Bronco to get put on hold but I have finally started working on it again. Picking up where I left off, I need to get axles back under my frame and I am going with a pair of 06 SD axles that I have lined up.

I have a good idea of everything I need to do, but I ran into a question from the get go. I am starting with the rear axle and as you can see I am not in a position where I can measure drive line angles.

Can someone who has done this swap already tell me if the factory rear axle degree shims from the 8.8 get re-used with the 10.5 sterling? I've gotten mixed replies from my research.



 

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ate lug
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Thats gonna be a hard question to answer without knowing what youre doing for the rear suspension. I doubt ford changed the perch angle on the newer trucks, so my guess would be that it would be the same as if you were using a 10.25: no if shackle flip, otherwise yes.
 

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I would grind off the factory perches and put some RuffStuff ones on. Don't weld them in, just tighten the U Bolts down enough - this will be sufficient until you get the body back on, etc and it is full weighted. Then set your pinion angle and burn them in.

Toss those wedges, they are a byproduct of way to lower manufacturing costs, not meeting an engineering objective.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Hey all, been a minute since I've been around here. Had a lot going on the past couple of years, mostly good that's caused the Bronco to get put on hold but I have finally started working on it again. Picking up where I left off, I need to get axles back under my frame and I am going with a pair of 06 SD axles that I have lined up.

I have a good idea of everything I need to do, but I ran into a question from the get go. I am starting with the rear axle and as you can see I am not in a position where I can measure drive line angles.

Can someone who has done this swap already tell me if the factory rear axle degree shims from the 8.8 get re-used with the 10.5 sterling? I've gotten mixed replies from my research.




@helirich has done this swap.


He should be able give you the answer(s).
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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I would grind off the factory perches and put some RuffStuff ones on. Don't weld them in, just tighten the U Bolts down enough - this will be sufficient until you get the body back on, etc and it is full weighted. Then set your pinion angle and burn them in.

Toss those wedges, they are a byproduct of way to lower manufacturing costs, not meeting an engineering objective.
Very interesting point. :beer
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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I would grind off the factory perches and put some RuffStuff ones on. Don't weld them in, just tighten the U Bolts down enough - this will be sufficient until you get the body back on, etc and it is full weighted. Then set your pinion angle and burn them in.

Toss those wedges, they are a byproduct of way to lower manufacturing costs, not meeting an engineering objective.
This is also my thoughts. You could even tack weld them on in an easy to get to spot the remove later if worried about it.
I have driven a truck in/out of a garage with just the u-bolts holding them in place though.
 

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September 15 FOTM
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Thats gonna be a hard question to answer without knowing what youre doing for the rear suspension. I doubt ford changed the perch angle on the newer trucks, so my guess would be that it would be the same as if you were using a 10.25: no if shackle flip, otherwise yes.
i have a bronco air shackle flip on my 78 and still had to use the wedges
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thats gonna be a hard question to answer without knowing what youre doing for the rear suspension. I doubt ford changed the perch angle on the newer trucks, so my guess would be that it would be the same as if you were using a 10.25: no if shackle flip, otherwise yes.
I have a bronco air shackle flip and will be using OEM rate Bronco rear leafs. Goal is to match up ride height with the front which will be using factory coils off the SD. Going for limited lift here. End product is an overland/family camping rig. I ditched my 4BT a few years ago when I tore the truck down and it's going back together with a 6BT so that's the reason for the heavy axles.

I would grind off the factory perches and put some RuffStuff ones on. Don't weld them in, just tighten the U Bolts down enough - this will be sufficient until you get the body back on, etc and it is full weighted. Then set your pinion angle and burn them in.

Toss those wedges, they are a byproduct of way to lower manufacturing costs, not meeting an engineering objective.
Man this is a great idea, and I wish I would have thought of it or posted earlier but my axle has already been blasted, painted and rebuilt.
 

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I also have the Bronco air shackle reversal. In order to get the axle centered in the wheel openings I had to move the axle back after the shackle flip. I originally had 1" zero rate blocks bolted to the springs and decided to ditch them after finding my pinion angle if I remember correctly ~10 degrees off. I remember I couldn't find shims with enough angle and didnt seem like the right way to do it.

I bought ruffstuff spring perches and I now have the correct pinion angle. The spring perches allowed me to move the axle back the same as the zero rate blocks.
 

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The aftermarket ones are likely ok, but lots of the stock 1/2 ton ford Perches like to bend and flex at both the front and the back. If you are not doing new perches, I would at the least beef up the stock pieces by adding in some plate to the front and back and enclosing them. I think even more important to do with the addition of a wedge or block as effectively the axle can place more load on this joint (think cheater pipe on breaker bar). Not aimed at anyone imparticular just general comment on perches.
I have bent, then because of that cracked the stock wedges on my 78 from the above happening
 
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