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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I would say Hi to you all.

My name is Jeff and I introduced myself in the other forum, but I thought it would be good to get to know you all.

I work at a Ford dealership and I have owned a few in my day,but this is my first FSB so I am pretty excited.

The bad:

The truck has a bagged out suspension so it sits a tad low, I also noticed that the truck vibrates when the hubs are locked in. The fuel guage stays pinned until it reaches a quarter tank and the oil pressure sender is crappy. It has the customary rust on the bottom, but the metal is solid enough to repair and the trans flairs up when cold.

The good:

I work at a Ford dealership full of gear-heads that want to build it as badly as I do. I get parts at cost plus 10%. The truck has a kickass stereo and tons of potential. The engine is quiet and I drove 156km's on 22 liters of gas (about 18mpg by my guess) All in all it is pretty darn good for a 19 year old vehicle.


I am in no rush so I am doing the obvious up front and looking at susp/lift/tires probably before winter or at the longest within a year.

I have gotten to page 97 of the 80-96 Bronco forum/posts, so I will do my best to avoid asking questions everyone else has asked 368 times :histerica

Anyhow, good to be aboard and I look forward to posting my progression.

:beer

Jeff
 

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EdsonBronco said:
Thought I would say Hi to you all.

My name is Jeff and I introduced myself in the other forum, but I thought it would be good to get to know you all.

I work at a Ford dealership and I have owned a few in my day,but this is my first FSB so I am pretty excited.

The bad:

The truck has a bagged out suspension so it sits a tad low, I also noticed that the truck vibrates when the hubs are locked in. The fuel guage stays pinned until it reaches a quarter tank and the oil pressure sender is crappy. It has the customary rust on the bottom, but the metal is solid enough to repair and the trans flairs up when cold.

The good:

I work at a Ford dealership full of gear-heads that want to build it as badly as I do. I get parts at cost plus 10%. The truck has a kickass stereo and tons of potential. The engine is quiet and I drove 156km's on 22 liters of gas (about 18mpg by my guess) All in all it is pretty darn good for a 19 year old vehicle.


I am in no rush so I am doing the obvious up front and looking at susp/lift/tires probably before winter or at the longest within a year.

I have gotten to page 97 of the 80-96 Bronco forum/posts, so I will do my best to avoid asking questions everyone else has asked 368 times :histerica

Anyhow, good to be aboard and I look forward to posting my progression.

:beer

Jeff

Welcome here Jeff

Get a remote filter on that AOD trans and quick. That'll cure what ails it, worked fer me;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=17326#content

Before the mechanics nix the idea, remember Ford TSBs for every AOD built state they recommend and uber-expensive in-line additional filter for the AODs.

There's plenty of things could make the truck vibrate with the hubs locked. I'd get the Ford guys on the spot to diagnose it as we're a bit far off, though I suspect it's your outer joints.

The gauge is probably a bad ground or faulty sender unit (in that order).

I wouldn't go near the suspension until you know what you want to do with it. I run 3/4 ton springs in the rear with Velvet ride shackles (cause it's a ***** road going commuter) and urethane bushings everywhere, with air shocks and gas in the front quads.

Check this site out for ideas;

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5/

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Glad to help with whatever ya need for info Bossind ;)

Good page there sixlitre!

I like the external filter idea and I will for sure be putting on a cooler. The truck sat for almost a year and when I drove it home the first day there was no flairing, my tranny mechanic ( the guy who works on transmissions not a trans gender mechanic :shocked ) says that it probably has dried out seals. So we are doing a trans additive to loosen any gunk, then flushing the trans and convertor with a pressurized system to make sure I am starting off super clean. Adding to the fluid a conditioner and I cross my fingers that will do the trick. Your suggestion of the two addon's will make a difference too I am sure.

Thanks again you two.

Jeff
 

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EdsonBronco said:
Glad to help with whatever ya need for info Bossind ;)

Good page there sixlitre!

I like the external filter idea and I will for sure be putting on a cooler. The truck sat for almost a year and when I drove it home the first day there was

Jeff
You might want to get the $29.00 remote filter plumbed in before you loosen up all that crap so it can catch it before it heads back to the main internal filter and clogs up the new filter.

With the remote you can spin off the $3.00 filter and prime a new one any time you like, very easily.

SIxlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That would be cool Deathtrap......once I do get up and running.

Jeff

p/s Sixlitre that inline transmission filter kit that is expensive through Ford has found it's way into my trans line due to parts having 3 unaccounted ones in stock ....bonus!
 

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EdsonBronco said:
That would be cool Deathtrap......once I do get up and running.

Jeff

p/s Sixlitre that inline transmission filter kit that is expensive through Ford has found it's way into my trans line due to parts having 3 unaccounted ones in stock ....bonus!
You lucky dog Jeff

Last I checked they were $18.00 American and they're as disposable as a fuel filter IIRC.

Miesk5 had the TSB posted on his website, that's when I was able to confirm that if Ford actually recommends a secondary trans filter, then maybe we're on the right track with our remotes.

Of course being one of the tightest wallets you'll ever meet (and not knowing about the Ford in-line auxillary filter) I went with the remote spin-on filter 5 years ago.

I'm very glad I did

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I actually had my truck inspected today and it needs:

1) Front driveshaft u-joints...they are causing the vibration

2) Rear axle seals & shoes

3) Oil pressure sender

4) Right outer tie rod end and right lower ball joint

5) The exhaust is rusted to hell.

Doing everything except the exhaust at work on Friday....and I can break it into two payments :rockon

I'll worry about the fuel guage once everything else is up and 100%


Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today is the day!

On a hoist atm and she is getting the works.

I can't get into an exhaust shop untill Monday, so I will have to put up with having the exhaust run through the existing converters with no system behind it ...ACK

Looks pretty good underneath for an almost 20 year old truck though.

I was quite disappointed to find that the ignition is shorting out, but thank god I caught it before it burnt to the ground. I went to turn it back to the accessories position and it started to smoke yesterday. The guys are tearing it apart to replace the guts of the column today.

Will keep ya's posted.

Jeff
 

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EdsonBronco said:
Today is the day!

On a hoist atm and she is getting the works.

I can't get into an exhaust shop untill Monday, so I will have to put up with having the exhaust run through the existing converters with no system behind it ...ACK

Looks pretty good underneath for an almost 20 year old truck though.

I was quite disappointed to find that the ignition is shorting out, but thank god I caught it before it burnt to the ground. I went to turn it back to the accessories position and it started to smoke yesterday. The guys are tearing it apart to replace the guts of the column today.

Will keep ya's posted.

Jeff

Search exhausts here

before you spend any dough Monday. Catco can get you from manifolds, through a new cat, to muffler with a cool twin pipe set up for @ $190.00 American.

Search using "Streetgang Catco Sixlitre" it will show up for you.

Sixlitre
 

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I appreciate the tip.

I can get used 5.0l Mustang headers,a custom y-pipe, weld in a new bung for the O2 sensor, 3" pipe back to a flowmaster or glass pack and shoot it out the side in front of the rear wheel.

Total cost about $300.00 and a day spent in my buddies exhaust shop.

That was my plan, if I had to keep a converter I would be looking at the catco in a heartbeat.

The alternative is to eliminate the second converter, hollow out the 1st, run 2 1/2 inch pipe back to a muffler (same) and that I can get done for about $130.00

It will al depend if the guy still has the headers in his garage.

crossing my fingers

Jeff
 

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EdsonBronco said:
I appreciate the tip.

I can get used 5.0l Mustang headers,a custom y-pipe, weld in a new bung for the O2 sensor, 3" pipe back to a flowmaster or glass pack and shoot it out the side in front of the rear wheel.

Total cost about $300.00 and a day spent in my buddies exhaust shop.

That was my plan, if I had to keep a converter I would be looking at the catco in a heartbeat.

The alternative is to eliminate the second converter, hollow out the 1st, run 2 1/2 inch pipe back to a muffler (same) and that I can get done for about $130.00

It will al depend if the guy still has the headers in his garage.

crossing my fingers

Jeff

Good plan, forget hollowing out the first cat, the actual Y-pipe has some major flow drawbacks you want to get rid of.

Sixlitre
 
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