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Don't they normally come compressed? Most shocks I've bought are, and then, once one end is in place, you cut the restraints and get it in place while they uncompress.

Heh, on the slip side, I still remember the shocks I took off of my '81. They still had the FORD emblem on them, so I can only guess they were original. If I held them right side up, they'd compress under their own weight, and if I turned them upside down, they'd uncompress. Made working with them pretty easy. :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter #502
Don't they normally come compressed? Most shocks I've bought are, and then, once one end is in place, you cut the restraints and get it in place while they uncompress.

Heh, on the slip side, I still remember the shocks I took off of my '81. They still had the FORD emblem on them, so I can only guess they were original. If I held them right side up, they'd compress under their own weight, and if I turned them upside down, they'd uncompress. Made working with them pretty easy. :toothless
You are correct and they did come compressed. I had already installed these shocks previously but had swapped them out with some old Rancho adjustable shocks I had lying around. The Ranchos only lasted a few months before they failed - seals must have dried out during storage?? So I was reinstalling the KYBs which I luckily kept.

Well to continue the saga about this Bronco and Colorado, we are now in evacuation status from the Spring Fire in southern Colorado. It is now the 2nd largest fire in CO history with almost 110,000 acres burned. It’s at 55% containment after about 11 days. 132 home/cabins have been destroyed and many more damaged to some extent. We are staying at a friends house about 30 miles south. The fire got within about 1 1/2 miles from our cabin before the firefighters stopped its advance. Anyway when we got the evacuation notice we had 2 hours to get out. A neighbor only had 1 car to evacuate and we had 3 vehicles and only 2 drivers. They needed another vehicle for all the things they wanted to get out and I needed to get the Bronco out. . . . So the Bronco is now back in Texas!

We are expecting to be allowed back in within 2 - 3 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #503
One problem I've had with this Bronco since I got it was the key is stuck in the ignition. It won't turn all the way back to the steering lock position to where I can get the key out. I took it to a locksmith and he just said it's not a key or lock issue - it's something mechanical broken in the column. So I've been living with a key stuck in the ignition and no way to take the key with me when parked somewhere!

So I went the my local pick-n-pull yesterday and luckily found one F150 with a manual tranny and the steering column still in it. Todays project is to refurbish the JY column and swap it out. I'll need to use the steering wheel I already on it since the Bronco has cruise and the JY F150 did not. That means swapping out the columns wiring. I'm hoping this will fix the horn too!!

Pics to follow!
 

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Hey Scoop,

I have an 83 and I have never seen a decent thread on a tear down of an 80-86 column. The ones I have found are for the later models and they don't look the same to me. I have an 83 manual, non-tilt column that needs the bearings changed (and maybe other stuff) but I've been too scared (or too lazy) to do it with out a decent walk through. If you can document the tear down I would very much appreciate it (part numbers?).
 

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Hey Dan240, sorry this is turning out to be not much of a rebuild. First the JY column will not work - enough differences between a tilt and non-tilt wheel that it won't work and won't supply any parts I can use to rebuild mine. That's the bad news. The good news is I was able to disassemble the JY column to the point I could see how the lock mechanism worked. This allowed me to free up the old column and now it works fine. The bad news is I figured this all out after I had removed the column from the Bronco! Turns out I probably could have fixed it with the column in place! But got it lubed up good and it seems to be working great with no broken parts.

Here is the JY column:



The old column with the lock pin fully up - in the position where I can remove the key.



Still need to put it back in the Bronco.



Next job is to remove the cowl vent cover, remove all the rotting debris that has accumulated from being parked under a pine tree for 8 years before I got it (!), and fixing the leak.
 

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Looking good Scoop!

Your clutch is hydraulic, right?
If so, while you have the steering column out, and have the cowl off, I highly suggest installing a firewall reinforcement brace/bracket. The '80 - '91 firewall was NOT designed with a hydraulic clutch in mind, and they crack and fatigue over time. Ford used to install these for free but have since discontinued them.

I installed one on mine when I converted from an auto to a manual, and am super pleased with it. Pretty easy to install, and it feels nice and solid. You have to take out the steering column and remove the cowl to install it, so you're 90% of the way there.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/









 

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Dang your Bronco looks nice. The red pinstripe definitely helped break up the white.

I hope you can get the roof basket issue fixed. Ever consider adding a gas can to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #509
@AbandonedBronco - did not know about that issue. Funny thing is the cover that goes around the column and attaches to the firewall was bent some which I thought was odd. This may be the issue. Need to check it out further. Thanks of the heads up.
@cdmck - yes I like the pinstripe to break up the white. I plan to reinforce the topper to better hold the rack. Not sure I want to add a gas can to the stock tire rack. I think I'd go to a stronger bumper with swinging tire rack set up to do that.
 

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If it does crack, it can get so bad that you can't shift because so much of the clutch pedal movement is absorbed by the firewall flexing instead of activating the master cylinder. Worth every penny, I say!
 

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Discussion Starter #511
If it does crack, it can get so bad that you can't shift because so much of the clutch pedal movement is absorbed by the firewall flexing instead of activating the master cylinder. Worth every penny, I say!
The cover was bent a bit on the top edge but I checked the firewall and it looked fine. No cracks and it was not bent up at all. I can see where the bracket reinforcement would help.

More on the cowl issue - I did get the cowl cover off by loosening up the hood to allow the cover to come off. It was full of leaves, pine needles and composted debris! Got it cleaned out and vacuumed out. The body sealant/caulking was lifted in several areas causing the leaks. I'll need to clean out the caulk and reseal. Should be any easy job with the cowl cover removed.





 

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Discussion Starter #512
OK, got a bit more done today. I finished up the column re-install with the exception of putting the steering wheel back on. I cleaned up the wheel and I'm letting it dry good overnight.

While I had the column out I swapped in a new wiper switch. Having the column out gave me a little more access to behind the dash to get at the switch. It was still a pain to do as I could not get my hands all the way in behind the switch.

I got the cowl area all sealed up. In addition to the caulking coming loose it did have a couple of rust through spots.

Here's a trick to getting the cowl cover off if you don't have a helper to remove the hood. If you loosen all 4 bolts and then remove 2 you can then relocate the hood to using the rear most nut on the hood and the front hole on the hinge. One person can do one side at a time and it moves the hood forward about 5-6 inches without taking the hood completely off the Bronco. This gives room to get the cowl cover off easily. It will not come off with the hood in the normal position. Reverse the process when done!



 

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Discussion Starter #514
Finally got the master cylinder swapped out and the brakes bled. Wow, what a difference! This 84 finally has good brakes. So when I originally did the brake job a few years ago I opted for the "new" MC without a core charge. Thinking New is always better than reman'ed. I was wrong! Turns out the MC I put on was leaking out of the piston into the power booster - not inside the booster but dripping down the front of it and of course taking all the paint off! The leak however was allowing the brake fluid to seep out of the rear piston (front brakes) and not building enough pressure for good braking. The brakes worked OK in most conditions but the issue showed up when pulling a trailer in the rain. When braking pulling a load on a slick surface the fronts would not brake enough and the rears would immediately lock up. Not fun!

When I started to replace the MC this time I went ahead and bought the "new" one again. It failed when I was bench bleeding it and started leaking out the piston - same exact issue as the first one! I took it back and had them order a reman'ed one. Works perfect! So the lesson here is never buy the "new" crap from China and get the reman'ed built in USA part!
 

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Discussion Starter #516
As noted earlier in this thread, this Bronco was evacuated from the Colorado fires this summer - so it's in Texas for the winter when it would normally be hibernating in Colorado. This is giving me time and opportunity to work on the little things that have been bugging me. I've been able to fix the key issue - works great now except now I have to keep track of another key ring. It was actually easier to know the key was always in the Bronco! (Not good for theft prevention however!). Working on the column prompted me to look into why the horn wasn't working - turned out to be the horn. Got a replacement at O'Reilly's. Got the cowl leak fixed as already detailed. Got the brakes working good. Only 2 things left - parking brake and air conditioning - and everything will be in working order.

I got the parts to fix the parking brake at the local pick-a-part yesterday. The cable connector which goes between the cable from the foot peddle to the 2 separate rear wheel cables was missing and I found it and the spring on an F-150. I tried to install them today but the rear cable are off a bit (one is too long). I need to figure out what's up with it.

And the AC, not sure if I will get it fixed. I don't need it much in CO but it would be nice to get it working. I will take it to a local shop and get an estimate.

Also need to touch up the paint a bit. Last winter it sat outside under a cover. The wind whipped the cover during a few windstorms and chipped some of the paint on the doors. Also considering painting the top black. The red did not turn out as nice as I thought it would and Maaco over-doped the flattening agent. I wanted a satin finish and it turned out very flat.
 

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Well I'm back working on the 84! I just can't get it idling right with the 2 bbl carb so next project is to swap back in a single bbl carb t see if that's the issue. As noted earlier, the 84 was brought back to Texas to evacuate the Spring Fire last year. It hd been running fine, not perfect, just fine but then it started not idling. I've rebuilt and/or swapped carbs several times now and just can't get it to idle below1000 to 1200 rpm (it surges a bit too). Also the rear window quit working! That was fixed a few weeks ago. Anyway, I fixing to install a new single barrel carb tomorrow to see if that helps. Pics to follow!
 
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