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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Bronco's been down for quite awhile now, and I've finally gotten started on getting it mobile again. A simple coolant leak turned into a bigger mess thanks to the PO half assing things. Found an intake bolt snapped flush with the block at the back of the motor. Wasn't able to get it out without having the pull the motor. Figured if I was going to pull the motor out, I'd have it rebuilt... until I found a good deal on a donor truck with 3 out of 4 items I wanted... so I jumped on it. It was going to cost 1500 to get a completely rebuilt long block 351, and I ended up picking up a good running (but rolled over) 91 F250 with an EFI 460, ZF 5, and a 10.25 for 900. The choice was simple... just a shame it couldn't have been a F350 so I could have my solid 60.

The process has been ongoing for awhile due to work and funds, but it's starting to pick up some momentum now. I've done a lot of research (which hasn't helped much) and a lot of measuring. This should be a fairly easy and straight forward swap, and everything should fit in nice and snug.

The plans so far are just to get the motor and tranny in so it's mobile again. The axles will come later. Work for the motor includes a new cam (Comp cams: 34-255-5) with new lifters, and all new gaskets. Headers, a better distributor, and new heads are planned, but won't happen for awhile. The 10.25 and D50 ttb (it'll do for now) will slowly be rebuilt, as well as acquiring new rims and larger tires.

On to a some pics and a few videos.

The Bronco... literally hours before discovering the broken bolt:


Ready to pull the motor:


Motor out... got 250 bucks off it locally:


The 460:


91 F250, ready to start the disassembly process:


First afternoon's progress:


More progress:


Getting the frame ready to load on the "scrap trailer":


All the extras crammed in my tiny garage:


Getting ready to take the remainder of the frame off and load it up:


The bronco's dash out, getting ready for the wiring harness, pedals, sterring column, brake booster, etc...:


Videos:

Start up and light revs (trying not to upset the neighbors):


One stuck bolt on the bed... this was the solution:


There will be more to come, but I'm holding off any further work to the Bronco until I get the divorce papers back from the whore wife. I don't want to dump money into and risk having her take it from me. The money will be going into the motor and tranny for now, so if she does take it, I can go buy another bronco to swap everything into.:beer

The wiring harness has been the biggest frustration so far. I've been working on pulling out all the wiring from the Bronco's harness for the rear window switch and defrost. Oddly enough, these connect to the main connector that exits the cab into the engine bay, so now I'm tearing into the engine bay side of the harness to get the remainder of the wires, which will then be spliced together through a hole in the fire wall.

Just because... here's a pic of the guy's rig that I bought the F250 from. Awesome guy. He had a few offers of 1300+ plus for the F250 from farmers who wanted a farm truck... but he still sold it to me because he "wanted to see it go to someone who was going to use it for more than just a beat up truck, and to help a fellow offroader out." Can't beat that. And Green monster is standing behind him.


God I can't wait to get this thing moving again and enjoy some topless summer days!!:rockon
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You and me both. Since I'm holding off on doing anymore work on the bronco (as mentioned), and not all the parts are here for the motor yet, I've been polishing up my 15 x 10 aluminum rims. Keeps me busy on something while I'm waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I worked on disassembling the 460 today to get it ready for all new gaskets and seals, a new cam, and new lifters. Overall it was a good day, but disappointment and fear made an appearance.

I finished mounting the F250 wiring harness to the dash as after I gave up on the motor. Don't have the window or defrost switches in yet.


Got all the accessories and brackets off with very few complications. Started labeling all the vacuum hoses and connectors as I disconnected them. Never fails... I always end up with a few connectors or hoses that I can never figure out where they go to.


This is where the disappointment and fear started to set in. All the bolts on the intake manifold came out nice and easy and all the gaskets were in good shape. No broken bolts were discovered like the old 351w... but if you look closely in the pic, there's SLUDGE everywhere. If you look closely at the front of the valley, you can see one spot where there isn't any sludge, right in front of the rib.


This is the point where my heart sank a bit. Sorry that the pic is blurry, but my camera and I were in disagreement on the distance that it needed to focus correctly. I'm not much of an engine guru, but when I saw the the cam shaft and lifters, my first reaction was WTF? It almost appears that the cam shaft lobes where raised higher on the edges, and weren't lining up with the lifters very well. Not to mention the discoloration from some extremely hot/old oil. Is this normal, or is there something worse I should be expecting?


That's a chunk of sludge I pulled out of the valley... I'd say it was about a 1/4 inch deep in most places.


More sludge once I removed the valve covers.


Passenger side which seemed to be the worst one. Sludge all over the push rods, springs, and rocker arms. Very disappointing.


Sludge on the bottom of the intake manifold. Shit is everywhere that I don't want it to be.


It was at this point that I decided I'd pull the heads off another day. I'm afraid of what I might find under them. I've always seen the commercials about how sludge can rob your motor of power, and if that's the case with a larger motor, then I can't wait to see what this things got when it's all cleaned up and back together. Speaking of which... what's the best way to get ALL of the sludge out, without having to take it to a shop and have it professionally cleaned?


Finished up my 15x10 rims to take some frustrations out. This was an old "before" pic, right after I polished up the first rim. In the pic, the rim on the left was scrubbed clean using scotch brite pads. The middle rim was after being wet sanded for 2 hours with 600, 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 grit sand paper. The rim on the right was after hitting it with Mother's aluminum polish with the small powerball.


All 4 done, with new valve stems, and ready to have the 35's remounted. Definitely an improvement. I wouldn't say they look like new, but they do look 100 times better than what they did.



By the way, when I went to take off the plug wires and distributor... I first numbered all the wires according to the firing order of the distributor. When I traced each wire down to the spark plug, there wasn't a SINGLE wire that was in the correct firing order for the cylinders... according to my Haynes manual. The motor ran fine without a single problem before it was pulled, so I'm left to wonder, is there even a SLIGHT possibility that there is an alternate firing order? I left the spark plugs in and marked each one according to the which wires were on them. If I can't find any additional information on firing orders, then I'll hook them up the way the manual says, and if it doesn't work, I can still hook them back up the way the were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Whelp... got the heads off the 460 today. I was a bit scared of what I might find after what I found in the last post, but to my relief, the pistons all look to be in good shape (very thin layer of carbon build up, not as much as I was expecting), and the cylinder walls are immaculate (only one showed any signs of scarring, and it's barely noticeable).



Part of my fear is out of the way for now. Tomorrow I have to get a puller for the balancer so I can finish stripping it down to just the crank, rods, and pistons. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping for good results like I found today. With a little luck, I'm hoping to have it all back together and in the Bronco within the next month. As usual, something will probably happen to prolong it.
 

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Speaking of which... what's the best way to get ALL of the sludge out, without having to take it to a shop and have it professionally cleaned?
When you get it back together, after the break-in on the stuff, I'd run a bit of seafoam through there, and then after the oil change, switch to full synthetic.

Get a good oil pressure gauge on there, and watch for any bad drop in pressure. If you get a bad drop, you might have to change or clean the pick-up screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's normal for the lifters to not be centered on the cam lobes.
That's a bit of a relief then... thanks.

When you get it back together, after the break-in on the stuff, I'd run a bit of seafoam through there, and then after the oil change, switch to full synthetic.

Get a good oil pressure gauge on there, and watch for any bad drop in pressure. If you get a bad drop, you might have to change or clean the pick-up screen.
I've already cleaned a bunch of the sludge out which wasn't a very pleasant experience. I'll have to try to seafoam when it's reassembled. I'm not real sure about running synthetic though... I'm pretty anal about changing my oil at 3,000 miles, so it just seems like a waste of my money when I can get a case of good Rotella pretty cheap.

The gauge is a definite. The dash already has a hole cut out for a gauge (had a vacuum gauge mounted in it) and I wanted something to fill it with. Oil pressure was my first thought, followed by coolant or oil temp.
 

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3k miles is a waste, dino or synthetic.

The oil in my bronco was changed every 5k, and at 208,000 now, I still bounce it off the rev limiter.

See sig pic. And yes, I do take it over 5 grand frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I guess I misrepresented myself when I said I was anal about changing oil at 3K. I'm anal about changing it regularly... as close to 3K as possible, which usually ends up being closer to 5K.


Anywho... I've been busy with things (divorce mostly), but I finally got the motor in earlier tonight!!!




It was an extremely tight fit and would have been much easier if I had a load leveler for the engine hoist. I had to make due with ratchet straps, pry bars, and a hammer for the firewall. It still went fairly smooth for doing it completely by myself, and with it getting dark.

My measurements were nearly accurate as far as firewall and frame clearance. I reused the 460 motor mounts from the F250 parts truck instead of ordering the 460 swap mounts from bronco graveyard, and if I measured correctly, the transmission cross member for the ZF should bolt up in the same location.

Hopefully I get out of work at a decent time tomorrow and can get the ZF, t-case, and drive shafts in... as well as finishing up the wiring. I'm getting antsy to drive it!! :chili:
 

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How come you are going five lug when you are putting a 10.25 in which requires 8 lugs?
He said he was waiting for the KP D60, but he can go d44 and has the 8-lug outters to match.

You didn't bore out the 460? :cry

Looks like everything is coming together nicely. keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How come you are going five lug when you are putting a 10.25 in which requires 8 lugs?
What Theta said... plus I'd have to buy new rims and tires, and if I'm going to dump money into those, then I'm going to bump up to 40's like I want, which also means some body modifications so I don't have to lift it any higher.

You didn't bore out the 460? :cry

Looks like everything is coming together nicely. keep it up!
Nope... I wanted to drop the least amount of money into as possible to get it in the bronco. The cylinder walls were absolutely gorgeous, there were no signs of worn out rings, and the pistons were all in great shape. There wasn't a need to bore it out... just a WANT... which will happen later on down the road.

So far, the total cost (including the purchase of the donor truck) is around 1500 bucks. That's just a quick, in my head, figure... but I really haven't spent a lot of money on it at this point... just a lot of time and energy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like I'm making a trip to the junk yard in search of new drive shafts. Somehow, I severely goofed on the approximate measurements from the back of the motor to the end of the transfer case.

I ended up with the transmission cross member 5 inches or so forward of where the E4OD cross member was at, and with the rear drive shaft fully extended, I'm still 5-6 inches short of the axle flange.

Hopefully I'll get out of work at a decent time tomorrow so I can hit up a junk yard or two in search of drive shafts from an AOD, C6, or 4 speed equipped rig.

Rims look awesome! I've always run steel rims I paint, but the cruddy set of aluminums I have sittin' I think I will clean up like you did. Off to home depot for sandpaper...

Adrianspeeder
It took me about 3-4 hours per rim. If you get a pack of each grit paper from an auto parts/auto paint store, you'll have plenty left over. I also ended up going through 3 bottles of the power ball aluminum polish. Can't remember the total cost of all the supplies... but it was under 50 bucks.

What size tires is he running? Them SOB's look skinny
I want to say they're 38.5 x 11... but I'm not 100% sure. They were too skinny for my taste, but he swears by them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's been a busy week, but everything is stuffed in/under the bronco, with the exception of the drive shafts. I ran into a few issues... mostly bad grounds and bad relays (or the lack there of). Also had an issue with the fuel pump not working... turned out that I needed the fuel selector switch connected since the wiring was for a dual tank setup. The nice thing about the switch is that I can hide it and select the rear switch as an anti theft device.:thumbup

The drive shaft should be ready to put in tomorrow once I put the cardan joint back together. Ended up buying a drive shaft from an 82 bronco with a T-18 manual. Stock E4OD rear drive shaft measures out to be a bit over 23 inches fully compressed... and the stock from the T-18 manual measures out to nearly 30 inches fully compressed. It may be pretty close to bottoming the slip yoke if I hit a bump really hard... but I now have a good starting point for a custom drive shaft once the 10.25 is in and the rear blocks ditched for lift springs.

I did the initial startup break in today, and will finish the recommended break in once it's mobile. I still have to set the timing, work on some more wiring (rear window won't operate), and finish up the drive rear drive shaft. Took some video for some family and friends who wanted to see the progress:

 
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