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Discussion Starter #1
im a former mud/water junkie and just found out how much water got into my truck during the earlier years.:rolleyes: i have the carpet up and i anticipate there will be water crossings in the future so i want to seal up the tub. i found these 4 holes around the front seats that had loose fitting rubber plugs in them,they all had marks around them where they let water in. anyone know what these are for and will it affect anything if i seal them up? also there appear to be some areas where the seals between the body panels cracked, there were marks around some of these where water came in too. how should i sel those up? im thinking of cuttting a groove where the crack is and filling it with silicone. speaking of silicone what should i use to seal this stuff. im thinking just some clear silicone sealant like they use in kitchens and batherooms, it needs to be in a big tube cause ill be using alot of it. also what do i use on the transmission access cover? thanks in advance.
 

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We have the carpet up on our 1990 and are in the process of doing the same thing. We have two large rubber plugs on the upper floorboards that are used to access the front cab body mount bolts/nuts. The 3 or 4 inch metal covers on the floor of the cab are for the same thing. I know yours is the newer body style, but I don't think those areas would be too much different. Hope those are what you were talking about.
 

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We have the carpet up on our 1990 and are in the process of doing the same thing. We have two large rubber plugs on the upper floorboards that are used to access the front cab body mount bolts/nuts. The 3 or 4 inch metal covers on the floor of the cab are for the same thing. I know yours is the newer body style, but I don't think those areas would be too much different. Hope those are what you were talking about.
i know what plus your talking about, always wondered what they were for. these are small though, ill take a picture



heres one of the plugs in its spot:

 

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those are for the bench seat that u dont have, as i see the studs for buckets i put a 3 section bench out of an f350 in my bronc thats how i know.
pull the plugs and fill with silicone and call it good.
 

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those are for the bench seat that u dont have, as i see the studs for buckets i put a 3 section bench out of an f350 in my bronc thats how i know.
pull the plugs and fill with silicone and call it good.
awesome, i thought i was for the carpet to breath or for bench seats, guess i was riight about one:toothless
 

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Discussion Starter #6
any ideas for the cracked body seams?
 

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Im trying out durabak as a floor and will update how it works for me as im in south fl ..I got a quart of smooth and am trying it out inside my new tailgate and on the seams ..Split or cracked stuff you will have to secure from cracking / splitting / or seperating first and try seam sealer ..this durabak seems pretty tough so far we will see after I test it out ..Also i used a hole saw and cut the sidewalls out of a old tire that i will use under the seat mounts then sealing the threads with felpro grey should seal well..
 

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Pull it all out and put in a bed liner and caulk all the gromets, then maybe you might slow it down but I doubt you are going to stop it completely.
 

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I have got a decent size hole in the firewall to the right of the steering column. Is there a plug that is supposed to go there? Have you done anything to seal where the harness goes into the cab?
 

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NO SILICONE... NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

use anything but silicone. Silicone never ever works to keep water out and after silicone goes on something nothing else will ever stick on it again unless it is sanded down to bare metal.

I restore cars and come across silicone all the time where someone put it around a windshield, or what have ya. It does not work and will make it impossible for anything else to.

You can use regular SILICONIZED caulking if you want to, it even comes in clear, just make sure it says PAINTABLE!!!! Or do what I see alot in these old cars and get some roofing tar and smoosh it in there real good.

there, i've had my rant about silicone... I wish they would put a warning on that stuff... WARNING: DO NOT USE FOR ANYTHING... EVER. :rofl:
 

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Im trying out durabak as a floor and will update how it works for me as im in south fl ..I got a quart of smooth and am trying it out inside my new tailgate and on the seams ..Split or cracked stuff you will have to secure from cracking / splitting / or seperating first and try seam sealer ..this durabak seems pretty tough so far we will see after I test it out ..Also i used a hole saw and cut the sidewalls out of a old tire that i will use under the seat mounts then sealing the threads with felpro grey should seal well..
a little extreme dont you think? are you making a boat?

Pull it all out and put in a bed liner and caulk all the gromets, then maybe you might slow it down but I doubt you are going to stop it completely.
the carpet is going back in, i dont want the loudness and i dont want it coming out like crap. i also dont want it to feel primitive, chicks dont dig that.:duh also i dont plan oon continually going in deep water, this is primarily to keep out water every now and then when i hit a deep hole, pulling this carpet out and cleaning all this crap has been a real pain.
I have got a decent size hole in the firewall to the right of the steering column. Is there a plug that is supposed to go there? Have you done anything to seal where the harness goes into the cab?
no seal aon the harness, you definately should not have a hole in the firewall, theres a rubber plug in mine.

NO SILICONE... NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

use anything but silicone. Silicone never ever works to keep water out and after silicone goes on something nothing else will ever stick on it again unless it is sanded down to bare metal.

I restore cars and come across silicone all the time where someone put it around a windshield, or what have ya. It does not work and will make it impossible for anything else to.

You can use regular SILICONIZED caulking if you want to, it even comes in clear, just make sure it says PAINTABLE!!!! Or do what I see alot in these old cars and get some roofing tar and smoosh it in there real good.

there, i've had my rant about silicone... I wish they would put a warning on that stuff... WARNING: DO NOT USE FOR ANYTHING... EVER. :rofl:
what would siliconized caulking be, like that white kitchen and bath caulk?


are there any places were water likes to get in? i noticed that whenever i went through deep water the carpet along the edge of the door jam got wet and the channels under it was always filled with water and mud.
 

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a little extreme dont you think? are you making a boat?



the carpet is going back in, i dont want the loudness and i dont want it coming out like crap. i also dont want it to feel primitive, chicks dont dig that.:duh also i dont plan oon continually going in deep water, this is primarily to keep out water every now and then when i hit a deep hole, pulling this carpet out and cleaning all this crap has been a real pain.


no seal aon the harness, you definately should not have a hole in the firewall, theres a rubber plug in mine.



what would siliconized caulking be, like that white kitchen and bath caulk?


are there any places were water likes to get in? i noticed that whenever i went through deep water the carpet along the edge of the door jam got wet and the channels under it was always filled with water and mud.

Upgraded door seals would be a must... you may have to fabricate your own, but someone out there might just be selling them.

there are lots of grommets in the firewall, floor shifter (if you've got one), and there will be some places in the truck with big rubber ones to drain out water. It can be done, and will be pimp if it gets there, but there'll be a lot of work in this.

as far as the silicone goes, as long as it says "paintable" on the tube you're good to go, and they've got a caulking that goes on white but dries clear you just have to keep it from getting any moisture for about 24 hours. trust me on this one, stay away from straight up silicone.

good luck man, sounds like a fun project :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Upgraded door seals would be a must... you may have to fabricate your own, but someone out there might just be selling them.

there are lots of grommets in the firewall, floor shifter (if you've got one), and there will be some places in the truck with big rubber ones to drain out water. It can be done, and will be pimp if it gets there, but there'll be a lot of work in this.

as far as the silicone goes, as long as it says "paintable" on the tube you're good to go, and they've got a caulking that goes on white but dries clear you just have to keep it from getting any moisture for about 24 hours. trust me on this one, stay away from straight up silicone.

good luck man, sounds like a fun project :thumbup
how would you go about making your own door seals? this want meant to be a big project, it just became one. i found mold behinde some of the trim panels.
 

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Take a good look at your seals, or, even better, take a small peice of the seal with you, and go hit the wrecking yards. I have upgraded many seals by simply pulling the seals off of later (MUCH later) models and installing them. For example, my 84 BII has the door seals from an 08 Ranger on it. These seal much better than the old, flattened factory ones, are readilly available and nobody buys used doorseals in the junkyard, so they were stupid cheap, like about $2 each. My Bronco is going to be getting the seals from a late model Stupidduty,as they get wrecked around here constantly, so I can let you know how that works out later. Just saying...
 

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just got back from HD and heres what i got:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=14&SubcatID=3

it says its paintable, mold and mildew resistant (very important:toothless), crack proof and water proof. so im thiking ill just grind a shallow groove into the areas that cracked and put this stuff in. Any ideas for the tranny access cover? if this stuff can be pulled off when dry i may just put a bead around the access hole and just set the cover on it till it dries, then tighten the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i went to home depot again a while ago and they also had some gutter sealant, mostly the same traits. i wanna know that i got the right stuff before i cut grooves into the cracks.

oh yeah, i tore off the foam stuff that was on the perimeter of the rear speakers. anyone know what its called and where i can get some for like 5 bucks?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i put the dynaflex 230 on last night. right now it feels kinda squishy, i can pull chunks off. i called dap and they said FULL cure time is 7-14 days! he also said that it should be cured enough for stuff to touch it after a day. does this sound right. im debating just getting some gutter sealant.
 

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did i do something that makes people stop responding to my posts?
 

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did i do something that makes people stop responding to my posts?
I don't think so. just sounds like you're on the right track so no one has anything to add :thumbup

Good luck with that, and good job on the no silicone thing...

I think it will be fine on your transmission cover, you might have to cut it with a razor knife to get it off without bending the cover.

sounds like it'll work, you'll just have to test it (sounds like fun testing) after you get it all "done". see where it comes in after the sealing. I still think you'll have issues with your door seals, but I bet you can find somebody (maybe here maybe not here) who has posted on a forum about how they fixed up their door seals to be water proof. Possibly the tailgate seal might be the worst one to make right... also know there are water drains in the bottoms of your doors to the OUTSIDE of the seals. You don't want to plug those up because they will cause your doors to fill up with rain water and rust/mess up components. I'm sure someone somewhere has come up with something good for that though...

good luck man, keep us posted on how it works :thumbup
 
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