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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

So I’ve been creeping in the bronco market for about a month. Slim picking for sub 200k trucks that still look decent and aren’t commanding a premium.
What is y’alls (the experts) opinion on this truck? He’s e said he’d take $6500...
 

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Looks pretty nice! But, I can't answer that question for you. @miesk5 will be along shortly to give you a significant check list to follow.
 

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Yo Konstantinos,
Welcome!
THE 94 does look good inside and out according to the pics.
I wonder:
ask what is the strap looking object for on the the tailgate?
and bright spots on driver rear fender lips, maybe a flash from the camera?

Price seems reasonable, but you would know better for your area.

Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Ask seller if cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready to confirm or check status @ https://www.safercar.gov
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that 93 recall is different than the 94-96.

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for 80-96 Model Year & Engine Type by NHTSA @ Welcome to VIN Decoding :: provided by vPIC

Our Navy Federal Credit Union suggests using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass with key and cab switch.
radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
For it and C6 or AOD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

- The M5OD is a top shift, fully synchronized, five-speed manual transmission (7003), equipped with an overdrive fifth gear ratio. All gear changes including reverse are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves.
Inspect the case for cracks, worn or damaged bores, damaged threads, or any other damage that could affect operation of the transmission. Inspect the machined mating surfaces for burrs, nicks or damage.
The clutch may be hard to depress and/or the clutch slave cylinder may wear out prematurely on some Broncos. This may be due to the clutch slave cylinder allowing hydraulic fluid to leak.
Preventative Measure; You should have the rubber shift cover plugs resealed at your earliest possible convenience. A common occurrence with this model transmission is the rubber plugs shrinking over time and allowing lube oil to leak out of the transmission. This occurs while the vehicle is in operation, so there is less of a tendency for a puddle to develop when the vehicle is sitting parked. The result to the transmission is a lack of lubrication and damage to some very expensive gears and bearings.
  • Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
  • engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
  • rust in radiator core support, bottom of B pillars and rocker panels, tailgate, and rear fender lips due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) that lets moisture & debris in the seam. A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements ⚠.
  • radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
  • Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.
  • cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
  • cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
  • emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
  • radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
  • body mount deterioration and frame rust
  • transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
Also in non-carbureted Broncos the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL), it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

For the 95 do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version. Check rockauto.com

Cash is King!!!
When Richard Rawling, star of TV show Fast N' Loud was growing up in Fort Worth, Texas, his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.

One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. Always carry cash.’ ”


"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ 8 steps to protect yourself when selling a vehicle.
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
"* Do you have the maintenance records?
  • Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
  • How do I get the title?
  • Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
  • How much tread is left on the tires?
  • Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
  • Did this car belong to a smoker?
  • Was this car used by pet owners?
  • Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
  • Are there any document or preparation fees?"
  • Courtesy of ebay
General Inspection Checklist by Free VIN Check Reports and VIN Check with some changes by me.
"Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Seams where the tailgate, doors and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on Bronco and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
All doors open and close freely
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Alarm works (if applicable)
Tailgate and door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame
No signs of non-factory welds, or crumpling or straightening inside the cargo area
*Same in front "accordion section (crumple zone)".

No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely

Post pics here or in Noobie Section.
How to Post Pics @ How to POST PICTURES

Good fortune!
Al
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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@miesk5 will be along shortly to give you a significant check list to follow.
LOL love that quote....

The biggest thing you have to worry about on these old trucks is rust. From what we see it looks good. Get it up on a lift and check the underside for rust and leaky fluids.

I paid $5,100 for my truck 4 years ago, 1995 Eddie Bauer. The interior is about the same shape as what you are looking at but the body needed paint. Yours is in better shape than mine so I would say $6500 is in the ball park. Verify the 4 wheel drive and the engine is in good shape and I would say go for it...


just my 2 cents...
 

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1994 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8
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Looks great inside and out.

I had purchased a 93 Eddie Bauer for $2,800. I needed a new interior, probably paint soon and obvious mechanical work. I cleaned it up and sold it for $4,500. Then I flipped another for $6,400. I ended up buying my current bronco for $6,800 because it was in better shape inside and out and the engine/transmission felt strong. Well $3k later I'm still putting the finishing touches on this because it's one thing after another.
My point is these old trucks will require money regardless if pretty or not. If I could do it over again, I would of kept the 93 and put in $4-5k into it and have it completely redone.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I see. I understand these questions are hard to answer over the internet. But assuming everything is equal, would you pursue the above vehicle with 200k miles, or a 1989, with 63k miles? I haven’t driven a 4th gen before, but love the look. All i drive are older vehicles, so I understand how the money pit game goes unfortunately. Anything that should make me steer clear of the 89?
 

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Depends on what YOU want and what you envision doing to it (lift, tires etc).
In my opinion, it's kind of a waste to pay $6K for a nice stock truck only to put money in it for mods. When you could buy one needing work on the things you plan on updating anyway and pay a lot less - but that's me.

Around here, any FSB under $5K is bound to have either rust (they call it the "normal rust" in for sale ads here LOL) or need a good bit of work.
If you work on your own stuff - look for a rust free version that has nice cosmetics and is tired mechanically or needs a trans etc.

Three Broncos at one time is my limit - but I've run across several in the past year or so that were rust free but needed mechanical work for cheap. Steered a friend of mine to one for his son. It was a bullnose, had an older repaint (no rust), already had a good lift, new tires / wheels, redone interior, all kinds of things done - but the engine bit the dust and the owner was tired of throwing money at it. He got it for $2K. They put a $1500 rebuilt long block in it, threw another $1K at refreshing brakes, bushings, and a mild refresh on the transmission (doing all the work themselves). He's got less than $4K in it and I know he could get double that around here.

When I'm done with the 95 EB, not counting my labor, I would be able to sell it and make a few $ without much effort, but that's not why I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good point. I have no ambitious plans. It will stay relatively stock, as it’ll b driven daily, taking us fishing, camping, and put to work on our 20 acres. My current daily is a 95 wrangler, which is less than ideal
 

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2-78 bronco,s-I is a ranger xlt and one is a custom-It has original 4 speed and I put a 390 in it
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Looks can be deceiving. Take it for a test drive.If you can-drive it up a steep long hill and listen for the transmission slip--tempersture--oil. Crawl under it and check all the bushings-sway bar.-front and rear. Ask plenty of questions and pay attention to the answers. People will lie and do anything to get your money. Trust only your own self. If you have no experience in doing these things. Find someone who has the knowledge and have him go with you. Even if you have to pay him.
 
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