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Last week I changed my front brake pads on my bronco before making our camping trip to the mountains on memorial day weekend, because there were some steep roads up and down i had to travel. Prior to changing the pads, my front brakes seemed to have a issue when using brakes to make a complete stop. (last several months its been doing it). worked normal when braking to slow down, but from time to time right before vehicle comes to a dead stop, i could feel a small bounce or pulse on the pedal and seemed to pull slightly to one side right before dead stop.
So i changed the front pads and only visually inspected both rotors. they looked OK, nothing obviously grooved, so i just changed the pads without turning the rotors. the old pads were about 25% left and wear on all 4 pads were about the same.
Yeah, so i discovered im still having the same issue. a tiny jitter bounce felt on the brake pedal on a few braking to dead stop. only does it randomly a few times. most of the time the brakes work normal. can tell its coming from the front brakes, it slightly pulls to one side while the pedal pulses about 2-4 times within that given second right before stopping completely.
I dont have any leaks anywhere, and i did bleed the brakes anyway just to be sure there was no air in the lines.
Ive asked around and ive been told the rotors may be uneven, slightly damaged or warped, or i may have a booster/vacuum/master cylinder issue that it causing this.

what do you guys think? should i check the rotors more thoroughly and feel for any tiny grooves or worn or warped areas if this sort of problem sounds like rotor issues? I have had the truck for over 4 years and have never changed the brakes until now. or should i check the brake booster/master cylinder first and how do I go about testing it?

any suggestions again would be appreciated. thanks guys.
 

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This is just personal experience, but I have owned three Broncos in the last four years, and I have learned that these trucks DO NOT like it when you just throw a set of pads up front. I now know that AYN time I need new pads I must pull the rotor and at the very least clean it up on the brake lathe. I have also long since disabled my ABS. On my 93 daily driver the ABS seemed very primitive and never gave me any confidence......its performance was erratic at best, and the times where ABS on a Bronco would help me were few and far between.

Now if you kine because it just sounds like you may have a ABS issue check the ABS codes through its test port on the LS fender next to the EEC test port.

Also....the pulling will go away as soon as you pull the rotors off the cut them.

Please post back with your results.
 

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have you checked the condition of the brake lines? you said you bleed the brakes what about change all the brake fluid? water will pocket in the lines and parts and cause issues as well. the rubber lines like to balloon and return to noraml shape. the book said to replace every 4 years. i replaced with braidded lines and now statrting to do a hydro booster swap......mike
 

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vallentinerocks said:
Last week I changed my front brake pads on my bronco before making our camping trip to the mountains on memorial day weekend, because there were some steep roads up and down i had to travel. Prior to changing the pads, my front brakes seemed to have a issue when using brakes to make a complete stop. (last several months its been doing it). worked normal when braking to slow down, but from time to time right before vehicle comes to a dead stop, i could feel a small bounce or pulse on the pedal and seemed to pull slightly to one side right before dead stop.
So i changed the front pads and only visually inspected both rotors. they looked OK, nothing obviously grooved, so i just changed the pads without turning the rotors. the old pads were about 25% left and wear on all 4 pads were about the same.
Yeah, so i discovered im still having the same issue. a tiny jitter bounce felt on the brake pedal on a few braking to dead stop. only does it randomly a few times. most of the time the brakes work normal. can tell its coming from the front brakes, it slightly pulls to one side while the pedal pulses about 2-4 times within that given second right before stopping completely.
I dont have any leaks anywhere, and i did bleed the brakes anyway just to be sure there was no air in the lines.
Ive asked around and ive been told the rotors may be uneven, slightly damaged or warped, or i may have a booster/vacuum/master cylinder issue that it causing this.

what do you guys think? should i check the rotors more thoroughly and feel for any tiny grooves or worn or warped areas if this sort of problem sounds like rotor issues? I have had the truck for over 4 years and have never changed the brakes until now. or should i check the brake booster/master cylinder first and how do I go about testing it?

any suggestions again would be appreciated. thanks guys.

well in my experience with braking systems when a master is going bad you will have a mushy pedal and if its a booster you will get a rock hard pedal, so i doubt its a master cylinder or booster..

now lets go onto the next culprit the rotors.. the rotors can cause alot of funny feelings when braking, such as pulsing thru the pedal which is normally due to warping the rotors.

next you say u feel a pulling alot of the time that is due to a caliper sticking or hanging up which in your case u might have some of both from what your describing..

if you dont want to cut the rotors if there not glazed over "meaning looking like a mirror" use some fine sand paper or a gasket cleaning cookie.. the rotor just need to be roughed up so the pads can seat right to the rotor face.

you always dont have to cut the rotors when you do brakes, but what you have to be concerned about is if the rotors are true or not.. while the fronts up off the ground have a buddy spin the rotor and see if its a lil wobbly if u can see it you definately need new rotors.. i know they can get expensive but im not a proponent of cutting rotors for a few reasons..

1) when you cut a rotor down your taking away metal that helps cool the rotor as u brake, less material the quicker they warp due to less material to help cool the rotors down..

2) lets face it we all just about run a big wider tire with a stock brake set-up which kills the braking system quicker ie. rotors,pads,calipers.brake hoses..

nobody want to be cruising down the road and have a child,deer,or car run out in front of us and when we go to slam on the brakes theres little to no pedal, not a good feeling..

also it always could be a 800 dollar abs controller but doubt it

if anyone has anything to add go ahead of if something i put up here to help newbies to the automotive world of brake systems let me know or correct me if im wrong but to my knowledge this is all correct good info...

what do i know i just slept at a holiday inn express last night lmfao
 

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I would suspect that you have a front ABS wheel speed sensor intermitently loosing the signal at low speeds(probably the one on the opposite side to the pulling)This will cause the ABS to operate on the wheel that looses the signal and cause the pedal to pulse or ratchet.Since this occurs at a low speed the ABS module thinks that the affected wheel is locked up and backs the pressure off to that brake and generally doesn't set a code.Monitering the system sensors as per the shop manual would probably confirm this.The repair,if this is the problem,is to replace the affected front wheel speed sensor.Probably the first thing to do is to retrieve any codes for the ABS.
 
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