[don_sanders]

So there has been an unusual amount of play in my steering wheel. So I researched here and worked my way down the steering column.

-upper steering knuckle was tight
-lower connection with the spring and plastic bracket was tight.
-rag joint was solid
-no wobble in the gearbox to frame connection.

Got underneath and filmed this.

There is a lot of slope in my tie rod ends. I’m pretty sure I’m on the right track and pretty sure that’s my cause.

1. Am I missing something
2. Best fix

Thanks

 

[Bud bronc]

Tie rods are pretty bad id replace them. Pretty straight forward need a wrench and a big hammer. Tie rods are what I check first before I start looking at steering gear box or anything above it. Replace them and see how it drives after. Bet they fix at least most of the slop if not all. I would get good brand Tie rods ends too. Sometimes the more expensive ones come with more hardware like moog. Good luck

 

[MS88Bronc]

Looks like you’re on the right track. I just replaced all of mine with Moog parts from Rock Auto. I reused my adjusting sleeves. There’s probably a 5% off code in the vendor section here.

 

[Jason2215]

I also used Moog for pretty much the whole front end and no issues so far. Might be worth checking Amazon if you have Prime. Some of the stuff I got lucky and it was cheaper and had 2 day shipping.

 

[don_sanders]

I’m told by the guy who owned it before me that it’s a rough country 6” suspension lift. Anything different I need to look at in terms of buying?

Thanks

 

[MS88Bronc]

As long as you have a drop pitman arm, which you should for a 6” lift. All the other steering linkage is the same as stock, unless you upgrade to ambulance parts, which are different part numbers. These are ambulance parts here, which are a bit beefier.

 

[don_sanders]

Should I worry any about the little bit of play in the center?

 

[MS88Bronc]

Should I worry any about the little bit of play in the center?

A little bit of play ANYWHERE translates to a lot of play at the steering wheel. I would replace any part that has visible play.

 

[GetBent4x4]

The play is from the steering box and the only fix to that is a redhead or blue top rebuild. The joints being worn will cause wondering and tire wear. And if you do a steering box rebuild you might as well do a saginaw pump and cooler. Rabbit hole. It wont be a good steering setup without that. You may be able to get by with the box rebuild and new steering parts but you will only get half the results.

 

[slimpartywagon]

The play is from the steering box and the only fix to that is a redhead or blue top rebuild. The joints being worn will cause wondering and tire wear. And if you do a steering box rebuild you might as well do a saginaw pump and cooler. Rabbit hole. It wont be a good steering setup without that. You may be able to get by with the box rebuild and new steering parts but you will only get half the results.

I didn’t want to point out the obvious

 

[TravisITGuy]

As long as you have a drop pitman arm, which you should for a 6” lift. All the other steering linkage is the same as stock, unless you upgrade to ambulance parts, which are different part numbers. These are ambulance parts here, which are a bit beefier.

If upgrading to the ambulance TR ends do you also have to replace the adjustment sleeves?

 

[MS88Bronc]

If upgrading to the ambulance TR ends do you also have to replace the adjustment sleeves?

Probably, but cross check the PNs to be sure.

 

[TravisITGuy]

so i found my steering slop is at the pitman arm joint. so looking at that ambulance list the DS-1073 shows it fits the F250. Wouldn't that make it to short?