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1989 Ford Bronco XLT 351W Engine, C6 3 Speed Auto, BW1356F Transfer Case 6" Suspension lift
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20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So there has been an unusual amount of play in my steering wheel. So I researched here and worked my way down the steering column.

-upper steering knuckle was tight
-lower connection with the spring and plastic bracket was tight.
-rag joint was solid
-no wobble in the gearbox to frame connection.

Got underneath and filmed this.


There is a lot of slope in my tie rod ends. I’m pretty sure I’m on the right track and pretty sure that’s my cause.

1. Am I missing something
2. Best fix

Thanks
 

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none :(
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33 Posts
Tie rods are pretty bad id replace them. Pretty straight forward need a wrench and a big hammer. Tie rods are what I check first before I start looking at steering gear box or anything above it. Replace them and see how it drives after. Bet they fix at least most of the slop if not all. I would get good brand Tie rods ends too. Sometimes the more expensive ones come with more hardware like moog. Good luck
 

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345 Posts
I also used Moog for pretty much the whole front end and no issues so far. Might be worth checking Amazon if you have Prime. Some of the stuff I got lucky and it was cheaper and had 2 day shipping.
 

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Registered
1989 Ford Bronco XLT 351W Engine, C6 3 Speed Auto, BW1356F Transfer Case 6" Suspension lift
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20 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I’m told by the guy who owned it before me that it’s a rough country 6” suspension lift. Anything different I need to look at in terms of buying?

Thanks
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,786 Posts
As long as you have a drop pitman arm, which you should for a 6” lift. All the other steering linkage is the same as stock, unless you upgrade to ambulance parts, which are different part numbers. These are ambulance parts here, which are a bit beefier.
 

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Registered
1989 Ford Bronco XLT 351W Engine, C6 3 Speed Auto, BW1356F Transfer Case 6" Suspension lift
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20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Should I worry any about the little bit of play in the center?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,786 Posts
Should I worry any about the little bit of play in the center?
A little bit of play ANYWHERE translates to a lot of play at the steering wheel. I would replace any part that has visible play.
 

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Premium Member
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4,647 Posts
The play is from the steering box and the only fix to that is a redhead or blue top rebuild. The joints being worn will cause wondering and tire wear. And if you do a steering box rebuild you might as well do a saginaw pump and cooler. Rabbit hole. It wont be a good steering setup without that. You may be able to get by with the box rebuild and new steering parts but you will only get half the results.
 

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934 Posts
The play is from the steering box and the only fix to that is a redhead or blue top rebuild. The joints being worn will cause wondering and tire wear. And if you do a steering box rebuild you might as well do a saginaw pump and cooler. Rabbit hole. It wont be a good steering setup without that. You may be able to get by with the box rebuild and new steering parts but you will only get half the results.
I didn’t want to point out the obvious
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,857 Posts
As long as you have a drop pitman arm, which you should for a 6” lift. All the other steering linkage is the same as stock, unless you upgrade to ambulance parts, which are different part numbers. These are ambulance parts here, which are a bit beefier.
If upgrading to the ambulance TR ends do you also have to replace the adjustment sleeves?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,857 Posts
so i found my steering slop is at the pitman arm joint. so looking at that ambulance list the DS-1073 shows it fits the F250. Wouldn't that make it to short?
 
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