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Discussion Starter #1
TL;DR: Can I just cap my TAD & TAB vacuum lines if my smog/air pump is deleted? My EGR will remain.

351W 5.8L 1995 EFI

I've seen a ton of diagrams and other post. Nothing seemed crystal clear. Many people have EGR deletes, which complicates it. My smog pump is deleted and I'm plugged the hose. I'll eventually add a modern cat exhaust. In this case, can I just cap my TAD & TAB vacuum lines if my smog/air pump is deleted? My EGR will remain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!! I'm seeing that now on some mustang forums. I have about 10 lights, so it's hard to tell whats what. Too many vacuum leaks at the moment

I see a company used to sell a nice little "kit" - otherwise use: 75 ohm 3 watt Resistors (Electrically eliminating TAB/TAD: See here in another post)
 

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Yo Denver,
by jrichker; "...Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps..."
read more and see many pics.
at Are the TAD/TAB vacuum solenoids NEEDED?
"
TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82.
You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids
OHMITE|43F82RE|Wirewound Resistor | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE|23J82RE|Wirewound Resistor - Vitreous | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE
Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone
18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053
As Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.
Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles."
 

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For reference, you can remove the TAB/TAD and cap them..they won't set the CEL but you will have the code stored in memory. No need to bother with the resistors if you don't want to.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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i kept my TAB/TAD connected to the wiring harness and left the vac ports on them open. I then ran new vac lines to eliminate what was going to those solenoids. no CEL on my 94
 

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i kept my TAB/TAD connected to the wiring harness and left the vac ports on them open. I then ran new vac lines to eliminate what was going to those solenoids. no CEL on my 94
Same, although I'm a little CDO (which is is similar to OCD, but the letters are in the right order) and used rubber caps on the ports.

No CEL, no memory codes. Wait, I take that back... I had a friend that did that. Yeah that's it. He "allegedly" hit a possum and was unaware the smog pump was ripped off*.

*No animals were actually hurt in the telling of this story and said alleged friend is actually running a more modern catalytic converter that doesn't require a smog pump...
 

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i kept my TAB/TAD connected to the wiring harness and left the vac ports on them open. I then ran new vac lines to eliminate what was going to those solenoids. no CEL on my 94
Ok, so leaving the TAB/TAD open to atmosphere doesn't trigger a CEL at all?
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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I remember now... If you leave the solenoids connected to the wiring harness, you'll get no CEL or stored memory codes. If you disconnect them to clean things up, you'll need resistors in the harness where the solenoids would normally be, otherwise you get the stored codes. Although, doing so didn't seem to eliminate the stored codes for me.
 

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I remember now... If you leave the solenoids connected to the wiring harness, you'll get no CEL or stored memory codes. If you disconnect them to clean things up, you'll need resistors in the harness where the solenoids would normally be, otherwise you get the stored codes. Although, doing so didn't seem to eliminate the stored codes for me.
Yo fodder,
Do you have emission tests where you are located and failed due to the codes as other have experienced?
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Yo fodder,
Do you have emission tests where you are located and failed due to the codes as other have experienced?
No testing here, so I don't know whether I would pass or fail. I only bypassed TAD/TAB and the smog pump because I added a modern 3-way catalytic converter, though, so hopefully I would pass the sniffer test. I consider it irresponsible to eliminate the cat and related stuff just because one's area has no requirements, although I have removed EGR before (too little consensus on what effect it actually has).
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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When i previously lived in Clackamas County in Oregon we had only the sniffer test. I passed running a hi flow cat and EGR still hooked up, everything else was capped or pulled. Tab/Tad were connected to the wiring harness still and there was no CEL. they dont pull codes either.
 
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