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Discussion Starter #1
I got a buddy that removed his smog pump, and egr. In place of the smog pump, he put a second alternator (Genius). But now his check engine light is burning, he bought the EGR eliminator kit. He says there is a sensor for the smog pump that is causing the light to come on. Is there something for this sensor, I kinda want to get rid of my smog pump.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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It's the missing EGR. even with the eliminator that light will still come on. The eliminator just tells the EEC that the EGR is off, you'll still get a 332 code.
 

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yo, As Jer advised, Ryan wrote in FSB, Code 33/332 is the desired result, if the light still comes on you'll need the $300-$500 chip. Or just live with the light...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, thanks guys. He has a 1991 ( I think, 90 or 91) w/ the E4OD, and I have a 89. So maybe Mine being a little older the eliminator kit will work.

If not, I'll just unplug the light. lol
 

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why kill the egr on a fi vehicles, just hurts gas mileage? and i understand removing the smog, just leave the tab and tad plugged in
 

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Any pics of this second alternator install, Would like to see how he did it.....
yo,
Dual for On-Board Welder Installation in a 90
Source: by flamedfordbronco (Frank H) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106428

For the smog pump; Ford used this in later F series years;
The electric air pump is used with one or two electrically controlled check valves to deliver air into the exhaust manifold. The AIR pump flow check monitors the HO2S signal at idle to determine if secondary air is being
delivered into the exhaust system. The air/fuel ratio is commanded open-loop rich, the AIR pump is turned on and the time required for the HO2S signal to go lean is monitored. If the HO2S signal does not go lean within the
allowable time limit, a low/no flow malfunction is indicated. (P0411)
The electric air pump draws high current and must be energized through a separate relay.

So far, I haven't heard of anyone using this in our Broncos....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I installed the egr eliminator kit and two resistors onto the leads for the two sileniods. No light no codes. Only code i have is for the evaporation canister purge, anyone know what to do about that one?
What two sileniods?
 

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yo S; he is prob ref. to the TAB & TAB
 

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I installed the egr eliminator kit and two resistors onto the leads for the two sileniods. No light no codes. Only code i have is for the evaporation canister purge, anyone know what to do about that one?
yo,
This code?
DTC 565 Pin-Point Testing & Possible Causes; "...The canister purge solenoid dangles in its vacuum line between the R side of the engine and the canister on the R frame rail, so its wiring could have hit the exhaust manifold..." by Steve83. Pin-Point Testing & Possible Causes From Ford; Possible causes: Open harness (VPWR or CANP). Damaged CANP solenoid. Shorted (power to ground) harness. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (LESS LIKELY!!!). Key on, engine off. Disconnect appropriate CANP solenoid. Measure voltage between VPWR at the CANP solenoid vehicle harness connector and battery ground. Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts? Yes - GO to KD7. No - SERVICE open VPWR circuit. RECONNECT CANP solenoid. RERUN Quick Test. KD7 CHECK CANP RESISTANCE, Key off. Disconnect appropriate CANP solenoid. Measure CANP solenoid resistance. Is resistance between 30 and 90 ohms? Yes - GO to KD8. No - REPLACE CANP solenoid. RERUN Quick Test. KD8 CHECK CONTINUITY OF CANP CIRCUIT Key off. Appropriate CANP solenoid disconnected. (some Fords have two). Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box (see Pin Outs below to check w/o this box), leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) at the breakout box and CANP circuit at the CANP solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? Yes - GO to KD9 . No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. KD9 CHECK CANP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND. Key off. Appropriate CANP solenoid disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Disconnect Scan Tool from Data Link Connector (if applicable). Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes - GO to KD10. No - SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. KD10 CHECK CANP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER CANP solenoid disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Scan Tool disconnected from Data Link connector. Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes - REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box and Scan Tool. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. No - SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box and Scan Tool. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test..." if you don't have or can't find a break-out box. (E bay has em for $$$.00) you can also check the wires to the PCM directly here are the EEC Connector Pin Outs, Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; miesk5 Note, see his Connector Pin Diagram Link below). READ MORE
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193692
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yo, As Jer advised, Ryan wrote in FSB, Code 33/332 is the desired result, if the light still comes on you'll need the $300-$500 chip. Or just live with the light...
I talked with him again and he has a 1989 Bronco.

Just outa curiosity what is the chip you are referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What's the benefit of removing this
I have always heard better gas mileage, and it doesn't carbon up the engine. Mine doesn't work anyways cause I cut the cat off and crimped the metal hose the supplied the EGR and Smog.
 

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Just outa curiosity what is the chip you are referring to.
As a guess he may be ref to TwEECer®

Overview, Forums, Downloads, etc.; "...The TwEECer® is an adapter which connects to the J3 service port of a Ford EEC PCM, giving you the ability to substitute parameters in the calibration data with parameters that match the modifications which you have made to your engine..." read more
Source: by tweecer @ http://www.tweecer.com/support.htm


TwEECer® Installation
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=77

& Consider Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; & Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service, and Modify All Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks, 1980 to 1987 by Charlie Probst
Available at Barnes & Noble, E bay, AMAZON, etc.
=========

CHIP Opinions by Other Bronco Owners

by SigepBlue here @ FSB; "...They're garbage unless they're done with YOUR vehicle on a dynamometer and an experienced tuner. The plug & go style don't do anything you can't do yourself for next to nothing. The only after-market tuning devices worth considering are the Quarter Horse and the twEECER, but only after SIGNIFICANT modifications have been made, and to the point that the factory programming can't keep up.
don't even bother with the PCM's programming until you've reached the point that it's absolutely necessary to do it. That level of modification won't be seen until the heads, intake, exhaust, and cam are changed..."
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by Ryan M; "...Ford programming has been better than any other manufacturer for years. this is why GM aftermarket computer tuning is more popular. ford computers can do more in the stock form. And you engine is no where near exceding the stock computer at this time.
MOST IMPORTANT IS COST
There are several ways to get a different engine and program. But the best way will require a new mustang computer, MAF sensor, wiring harness, and a chip tuner.
omputer: $100 - $300
MAF sensor: $100 - $200
Wiring: free junkyarding - $700
Chip: $400 - $750
Cheapest way to do it would be eBay hunting and you're still looking at $500+ for everything you'd need.
So from a dollar stand point your ...truck engine does not have enough perfromance potential to justfy the cost.
Honestly I can't really justify my own computers cost. I have spent just over a grand on MAF computer hardware.
This is one of my web sites that talks about EFI perfromance add on's. Not all of my pages are working because Taco, Pepe, and me are trying to upgrade my sorry a$$ excuse for a web site
http://fordfuelinjec...erformance.html
There are some BS chips out there.
Any "chip" that plugs inbetween the harness and computer is nothing but trouble.
Any "chip" that hate's the word chip and wants to be called a "programable module" is probable the real deal. I don't have a "chip," I have an AutoLogic module. It plugs into the back of the computer on the J3 port
When a Module plugs into the J3 port, It substituts values within the stock Ford program.
can anybody guess what comes next ???
Ford's EFI programmign is so good, we keep it, we simply tell it the truth. Chips between the harness and computer lie to the computer. Lieing is bad, computer will do the wrong stuff and you won't be happy. Plug into the J3 and tell the computer the truthfull values, like injector size, engine displacement, ect and both computer and driver will be HAPPY
..."

Hypertech Power Module Review in a 94
Source: by Stephen R at again.net via web.archive.org
"...The next modification to the Bronco was going to be ignition work. Although the Ford ignition system worked just fine, I had read several reports about new "computer modules", so I read some specification sheets, and ordered the Hypertech Power Module, the Hypertech Power-Stat, and the Hypertech Modified Octane Bar for the distributor. I'm really not too sure this was such a great idea. I noticed no improvement in power, speed, acceleration or anything... except for the gas pump. No I didn't get more MPG, I had to switch from 87-octane gasoline to 91-octane. (The Bronco doesn't run worth a damn when I use 87-octane!) As for the Power-Stat, hell, it's just a plain old thermostat that opens about 40-degrees sooner than the factory job. What it does is make the Bronco run richer and cooler, fooling the Ford computer. WHOOP-EE!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This TwEECer chip...... would that be what I would need to put a cam in a SD computer?
 

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I belive the tweecer is for mass air only. Someone correct me if im wrong.
My mass air swap was cheap. Wire harness was $20, comp was $20, 24p injectors were $50(although not needed for maf swap),maf was $50. And acouple hours of my time. So thats rufly $140 for maf with jy parts and some ebay items much cheaper then the tweecer if your willing to hunt around for parts.
 
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