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Discussion Starter #1
I have to replace my water pump this weekend. I can't afford the pump until tomorrow, so today I tore the whole thing down. I wanted to get the pump off but one bolt is stuck, and I don't want to break it. Anyways, seeing how I have a few days I threw some PB at it. I am going to PB blast it every chance I get between now and Saturday morning. I will PB before I leave for work, when I get home, when I leave and when I come back home. My question, does PB really work? Or am I going to be singing the broken bolt blues? I hate these stupid long bolts that always rust to hell. All the bolts that did come out actually looked really good, not pitting or corrosion, just a little rust. What are some tricks to get it to work better?

I have been tapping the bolt with a hammer as well to try and "break" loose anything to let it penetrate better. I have a soldering torch that I can use to heat up the bolt and help me out. Should I heat the end of the bolt? Or around the block where the timing cover meets the block? I DO NOT want to break this bolt. Last time I broke a bolt it took me two days to fix it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks a million in advance.
 

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I see Broncos
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Tell me this, can you move the timing cover at all? When I had to do mine one of the long bolts had welded itself to the timing cover. I ended up having to break the timing cover off of the bolt then it just spun right out.

As for PB Blaster yes it does work but as with anything it's not perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tell me this, can you move the timing cover at all? When I had to do mine one of the long bolts had welded itself to the timing cover. I ended up having to break the timing cover off of the bolt then it just spun right out.

As for PB Blaster yes it does work but as with anything it's not perfect.
This bolt goes through the water pump, and the timing cover. Its on the passenger side. I got all the other bolts out, and broke the water pump loose in hopes of trying to wiggle the bolt around. I obviously get some play back and fourth as it is a long bolt. I just hope I don't break it.

I actually had that same problem you mentioned on my old bronco when I rebuilt the engine. I ended up breaking the cover as well and using vice grips to get that bolt out.
 

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soak it down then use heat. it will come out, think positive. good luck
 

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like thin blue line posted. pb works great, soak it down and let it sit overnight work it slowly and it should come out. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
like thin blue line posted. pb works great, soak it down and let it sit overnight work it slowly and it should come out. good luck
so then two days and nights should do the trick? the problem is the only opening to the bolt is like an inch and a quarter away from the threads. I am thinking about cutting the water pump off so I can spray the penetrating lube down the hole.
 

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I've always had good luck with pb blaster, but i agree that soaking it a few times and letting it sit sure seems to help.
 

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I've always had good luck with pb blaster, but i agree that soaking it a few times and letting it sit sure seems to help.
Alright cool I just sprayed it again a few minutes ago. I'm gonna go out there again in an hour and do it again. And then tomorrow before I leave for work.

Hopefully it'll break loose
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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tony... why do your posts have VigLink links in them each time you type "water pump"?
Not a fan of spamming type software... assuming your not doing that on purpose.
 

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I did that with my exhaust bolts for about a week before I started taking everything off. It worked great. I've also been reading a lot lately about a 50/50 mixture of ATF and Acetone that's suppose to work better on removing hard to turn bolts. If the bolt still doesn't turn when you try it, give that a try for a few days
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tony... why do your posts have VigLink links in them each time you type "water pump"?
Not a fan of spamming type software... assuming your not doing that on purpose.
Idk I thought it was just the forum.

Water pump


I did that with my exhaust bolts for about a week before I started taking everything off. It worked great. I've also been reading a lot lately about a 50/50 mixture of ATF and Acetone that's suppose to work better on removing hard to turn bolts. If the bolt still doesn't turn when you try it, give that a try for a few days
I heard of that one too. This sucked is probably pretty tight. I'm hoping two days of PB will loosen it
 

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tony... why do your posts have VigLink links in them each time you type "water pump"?
Not a fan of spamming type software... assuming your not doing that on purpose.
you just did it in your post pepe.

it happens to me too. and many others. it's not us, it's the forum
 

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,,, I've also been reading a lot lately about a 50/50 mixture of ATF and Acetone that's suppose to work better on removing hard to turn bolts. If the bolt still doesn't turn when you try it, give that a try for a few days
yo John!
Here it is;
Penetrant Fluid; "...Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ...Average load*
None ........... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..........238 pounds
PB Blaster ......214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..127 pounds
Kano Kroil .......106 pounds
ATF-Acetone ..53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmissionfluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
The results have been widely quoted on the internet, but the picture in the magazine allegedly shows power steering fluid and not ATF, and according to lbender (who claims to be the author) in this thread, it actually was power steering fluid (mixed with acetone) that they tested with. Lbender begins participating in the thread on its second page,,,

at http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-568785.html


This Mix is actually Ed's Red Recipe, Penetrating Oil for the masses. Ed's Red Recipe; December 15, 1995. Editor's Note: Ed Harris is a well known, knowledgeable gun writer with years of experience working for Ruger and the US government. The following article is a re-post of his famous "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner, which is an inexpensive, effective firearms cleaning agent. It also makes a VERY effective penetrating oil to help loosen stubborn fasteners. I've mixed Ed's Red, and one HAS to use it in a well ventilated area, preferably outside. If you use it inside, you really should use an appropriate respirator and exhaust fan to remove the volatile and potentially explosive fumes. YOU MUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS ON USE. Mix Your Own "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner... It Really Works! By Ed Harris Rev. 12-27-94; http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/ed'sred.htm

I used $ Store PS Fluid

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

And the Dremel w/wire brush helps a lot .. clean area and any threads for over night, if possible, make a "dam" out of plumber's putty or whatever to hold the mix and let it seep

Heat is a good friend as always and a tap w/mallet and punch or drift
 

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Soak it as often as you can. Heat it if possible. Tap the hell out of it. Use an impact set on a lower tq. if you have one. Hold your mouth right.
 

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im a millwright tech in a very large industrial plant. I swear by PB blaster. it'll do the trick. but again i think the best thing for you is gonna be heat. A propane torch touched on the block around where the bolt goes in wil ldo great justice. I believe heat will get it out even not using a penitrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
im a millwright tech in a very large industrial plant. I swear by PB blaster. it'll do the trick. but again i think the best thing for you is gonna be heat. A propane torch touched on the block around where the bolt goes in wil ldo great justice. I believe heat will get it out even not using a penitrating oil.
I'm going to use heat. I will try to break it loose without heat but if it doesn't budge I'm not messing around with it. I obviously will have to clean the block pretty good. Will the heat mess up the timing cover gasket? I wont be applying heat to the timing cover but I'm pretty sure it'll get hot. What do you guys think? Keep direct heat off the gasket and it should be fine or should I just replace that too? I'd really like not to because that's just more bolts that might be fawked. I'll try the ATF acetone too! Lol. Hell I'll let this sit for a week if I don't break a bolt!
 

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using heat takes just the right touch... you want to put direct/intense heat right on the spot with the threads. let it get hot really fast and quickly brake it loose before any cooling action happens. if you get it broken loose right away great, stop and remove the heat quickly and spray the area with water to cool it down to save any nearby gaskets before the heat travels to them.

this whole process should take under 1min. if your heating any longer than that then it defets the purpose. the theary is that you heat the female hole faster than the heat can transfer to the bolt. so the hole/threads swell larger, but the bolt remains the same size.


I am starting to wonder if someone changed the waterpump in the past and got the different length bolts mixed up. you could have a bolt in there that was too long to begin with and got/locked/jammed/bottomed out
 

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Discussion Starter #18
using heat takes just the right touch... you want to put direct/intense heat right on the spot with the threads. let it get hot really fast and quickly brake it loose before any cooling action happens. if you get it broken loose right away great, stop and remove the heat quickly and spray the area with water to cool it down to save any nearby gaskets before the heat travels to them.

this whole process should take under 1min. if your heating any longer than that then it defets the purpose. the theary is that you heat the female hole faster than the heat can transfer to the bolt. so the hole/threads swell larger, but the bolt remains the same size.


I am starting to wonder if someone changed the waterpump in the past and got the different length bolts mixed up. you could have a bolt in there that was too long to begin with and got/locked/jammed/bottomed out
Yea I know the theory, I've just never actually used heat. I'm pretty sure it'll break loose. I have some pretty good access to it. I'm goin to take the alternator and air pump out of the way tho. Would it help if I use some liquid nitrogen on the bolt when I heat the block? Lol

And no this is the correct bolt. All the bolts that bolt the pump to the block are like three inches long
 

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Idk I thought it was just the forum.

Water pump
you just did it in your post pepe.

it happens to me too. and many others. it's not us, it's the forum
strange! I'm using FF and it's not happening ALL the time, but appreciate the input guys. Must be something with AutoGuide. Thanks. :beer
 
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