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Discussion Starter #1
Got the heater core fixed. NOW my electrical gremlin is back. No front right marker/turn signal and no brake lights. I have replaced both turn signal pigtails. I actually am chasing this problem. First one side then the next. Repeat. Now the brake lights are out. Am I looking for a bad ground? Unfortunately I am red green colorblind so electrical isn't my strong point at all. Any suggestions? I'm real close to taking it to a shop and paying them to fix it. Its seriously getting very old. I enjoy working on the truck but not the same thing over and over. Ugh. Almost enough to make me want to sell it.
 

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OMF
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From the sounds of it you have some bad connections/connectors.
I would almost consider getting ahold of a wiring diagram and replacing all of the lighting wiring.
It would be alot of work but well worth it in the end!
 

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Clean all your grounds, make sure you have clean metal to metal contact and not metal to rust. Check ground from firewall to engine on the back of the engine. I added an extra ground cable from the frame and body to the engine near the alternator.
 

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I would also check the turn signal cam, sometimes they get gunky or the little wires lose contact or one breaks. Happened just a couple months ago to me. Brake lights were screwy, only one side of rhe signal worked. Good luck, electrical stuff is awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would love to replace all the wiring. But I'm about useless with anything electrical. I'm not sure what a turn signal cam is but the clockspring is less than a year old. Looks like ill be taking it to the shop tomorrow if I can find one that's open that is. Anyone in the northeast Texas area and bored tomorrow? There's free beer in it. Must be good with wiring. Lol
 

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No blown fuses? The only thing that makes sense is a bad ground. Look under your dash around where your pine needle fire was and see if any wire got exposed. It could be intermittently contacting something and grounding out differently each time you mess with it. Are any bulbs blown? Take a multimeter and put it to the positive terminal on the offending bulb socket and connect the other end to chassis ground. The resistance should be infinite. If you see any ohm reading besides the open contact reading, you have a short.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ross no blown fuses. No wiring that I saw damaged from the vehicular campfire. Looked at everything real close when I replaced the heater core. This has been an ongoing issue for this truck. And now its affecting the brake lights. The taillights work fine but no brake lights. And the brake light switch is fine. I swapped it out with an extra that I had and no luck. I guess ill be buying a multimeter tomorrow. I absolutely hate electrical. Makes me feel stupid. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So. To sum up. No headlights, brake lights, right front turn signal or marker and no light on the fuel gauge part of the instrument panel. Everything else works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yep. Looking on Craigslist now to see if there's anything worthwhile on there. I bet I. Could get at least 5K for the bronco.
 

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So. To sum up. No headlights, brake lights, right front turn signal or marker and no light on the fuel gauge part of the instrument panel. Everything else works fine.
No headlights can only be from the headlight switch. Are your rear running lights working, or is it just your brake lights? Verifiy the $5 brake light switch is working. Sounds like it's time for a new headlight switch, when they go bad, they can cause all sorts of crazy problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update. New battery, terminal ends and solenoid. Don't ask. Headlights are working. Turns out the high beam switch has got to be plugged up in order for the headlights to work. I had pulled it trying to rule out a bad highbeam switch as a cause of turn signal not working. Still no brake lights. Still no right front turn or marker light. All other lights work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep. They all work. The only lights that are out are the brake lights and the right front turn signal and marker light. And the fuel gauge engine oil pressure gauge light.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok. After tinkering around for awhile this is what is happening. I unplugged the right front light harness swabbed it out with a qtip and replaced the bulb. Now the marker light comes on very bright but no turn signal. Still no brake lights. Uhm anyone else have this before? I put an ohmmeter on there set it to2000 on the ohms and it had a reading on the harness that the headlight harness plugs into. So I guess that means there's a short somewhere in that. Does it sound like I'm even testing this right and on the right track?
 

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Ok. After tinkering around for awhile this is what is happening. I unplugged the right front light harness swabbed it out with a qtip and replaced the bulb. Now the marker light comes on very bright but no turn signal. Still no brake lights. Uhm anyone else have this before? I put an ohmmeter on there set it to2000 on the ohms and it had a reading on the harness that the headlight harness plugs into. So I guess that means there's a short somewhere in that. Does it sound like I'm even testing this right and on the right track?
Have you checked the brake light switch on the brake pedal yet? It should have 12v constant; when the switch it pressed in, no power flows through it. Whn you depress the brake pedal, the switch closes and sends 12v to the brake lights. Take your multi-meter and check to see if that switch is making and breaking. Turn you meter to ohms with sound, and put the meter on each wire, depress the switch, it should NOT beep when pressed in, and beep when the button is out. Also, check that you have 12v to the switch; I had to replace the factory harness connector because it was not making good contact with the switch. Just cut off the plug and install 2 spade connectors, that works fine, and fixed my problem. If you don't have 12v to that connector, your brake lights will never work.
 

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I just went out and checked mine cus I know one is good and one is shorted.I checked the good one and have about infinite ohms on the 2000 ohm setting. The bad one reads 000 or no resistance. They should not have continuity without a bulb in there, so something is shorted....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah. I have absolutely no idea how to read a multimeter. After hours. No days of messing with it that's the only thing I'm sure of. That and my utter hatred for all things electric. I give up. Wonder how long it will take to get a ticket for no brake lights.
 

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You can't give up yet. After measuring that this AM I realized I have a short too. I can't upload pics from my phone but I found why I had to jump that connector. The ground on the socket is a little male pin connector that you push through the bottom of the socket. It connects to the tab that contacts the body of the bulb. This connection was so corroded inside the body of the connector that it wouldn't pass ground. I just pulled it and soldered a wire to the tab and put it through the body of the socket where the old male pin went.....now to find the short. Not sure why it even worked anyway. I will post some pics to my supermotors if I can.

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/23959/78255
 
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