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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:doh0715: So im on the way to NAPA to pick up the 3" 10ft section of exhaust pipe, and the 3" 45* turn, and a block away i start to get this knocking from the drivers side bogger..... ok, so i go get the pipe, and come back out to scope it out.... Seems that the lug nuts stripped out the wheel studs, and are about to fall off! WTF:banghead

So back inside i go to get new wheel studs and lug nuts, an Fin $80 bucks.... Well seems that i might as well replace the rotors and pads since i have them laying around too........


Anyone have any pointers or helpful hints, cause im pretty sure with my luck, im going to run into problems.............
 

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:doh0715:Seems that the lug nuts stripped out the wheel studs, and are about to fall off!
You need to determine the underlying issue that caused the studs to strip in the first place...that just ain't right

Something wrong with the wheels?
Are they the right nuts for the wheels?
If they are open nuts, were they oriented the correct way? (taper toward the wheel)
Were they tight?
Etc, Etc....
 

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have you pissed off anyone lately? happened to me before. loosen up a few lug nuts and presto the wheel goes flying off and sending you into certain carnage. check all the lug nuts from time to time. save ya a whole hell of problems.
 

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have you pissed off anyone lately? happened to me before. loosen up a few lug nuts and presto the wheel goes flying off and sending you into certain carnage. check all the lug nuts from time to time. save ya a whole hell of problems.
It's usually the exe's new boy-toy or your second cousin who's going thru re-hab for the third time. You know, the one who you refused to bail out of jail last Halloween?...........................:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To clarify, $80 was for 32 wheel studs and lug nuts.....Replacing all of them while im at it....


And YES, the lug nuts were put on correctly, and torqued about a month ago, so maybe it loosened up? no quite sure...


Like i guessed, i bought the hub socket today, thinking it was a 6 prong.... WRONG, its a 4, so back to napa i go tomarrow....

BTW, does anyone know the proper torque specs for the hub?
 

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don't forget he's got a D60 front....so everything is 8 lug and I think I paid around $3-4/wheel stud (9/16ths) from Napa.

but even though you said you torqued and tighented the wheels not long ago...you did SOMETHING wrong. 8 lugs and you managed to strip out most of them? Just not right. When you tightened the lugs the last time did you do this with the tire on the ground? You need to tighten them with tire off the ground, then let it down for final torque. this ensures the wheel is fully against the hub mounting surface. or if you just put in new studs you didn't fully seat them. Not sure what else could have actually gone wrong except just not proper torque....important for aluminum wheels but it looks like you have steel wheels....just hard to not properly torque a steel wheel with 8 lugs.
 

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To clarify, $80 was for 32 wheel studs and lug nuts.....Replacing all of them while im at it....


And YES, the lug nuts were put on correctly, and torqued about a month ago, so maybe it loosened up? no quite sure...


Like i guessed, i bought the hub socket today, thinking it was a 6 prong.... WRONG, its a 4, so back to napa i go tomarrow....

BTW, does anyone know the proper torque specs for the hub?
The new Super Duty's are at 165...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The new Super Duty's are at 165...
Im talking about the spindal nuts, holding the hubs on... I believe their like 50 ft-lbs, on both.... Also Im replacing the axle joints while i have everything out.... I cant seem to get the FLAWKers off... Anyone have any pointers besides BFH.. or any pictures for that matter of the process?
 

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Im talking about the spindal nuts, holding the hubs on... I believe their like 50 ft-lbs, on both.... Also Im replacing the axle joints while i have everything out.... I cant seem to get the FLAWKers off... Anyone have any pointers besides BFH.. or any pictures for that matter of the process?
I'm not sure on the spec for a D60, but D44 spindle nut is more like 120-150 for the outer, the inner is only about 15, just enough for a little pre-load on the bearing.

Your F250 didn't come with a D60 front, you had it put in?
 

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Just my 2cents, it is easy for the nuts to come loose if your running big tires
and dont check the lug nuts periodicaly.
Even on a "stock" 8 lug axle, the lug nuts should be (just my opinion) checked occasionaly
for "walk off", loosening from wheel rim torque forces.
If you have one loose chances are you have a few loose,
sometimes it comes from not wanting to crank the nuts down as hard as possible,
and thats understandable.
Usually on mine i crank (8 lug) i go two screeches
beyond tight without no noise.
Anti seize grease can cause walk out also, if you use too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm not sure on the spec for a D60, but D44 spindle nut is more like 120-150 for the outer, the inner is only about 15, just enough for a little pre-load on the bearing.

Your F250 didn't come with a D60 front, you had it put in?

No, i did an SAS not too long ago, it had the Dana 50 ttb front....
Also my understanding about the torque specs were 50ft-lbs for the inner, then back it off a half turn, and the outter was something like 100 or so ft-lbs...


idk why i said acorn nuts, i mean open-ended lugnuts. i see dumbass kids do it all the time.

Thanks for having such high hopes for me:banghead... They were on correctly yet again to confirm im not a dumbass...:doh0715:



I also cant find any pictures for the darn axle joints..... I think it may be time for me to go get a hydrolic press... Yet im still not too sure exactly how its suppose to be done....Anyone got some pictures of the process...... I pulled the clips off already, just cant get them to budge(safely without bending the ears)
 

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50 back off 90* not half a turn (which if you take a torque wrench will discover there should still be a little there, thus the 15ftlb), Basically it's best in my experience to go by feel....i.e. what you are shooting for is you don't want the inner "loose", nor do you want it to drag the bearing. This AFTER you have seated the bearings by going up to the 50ftlbs or so.

I asked about the D60 front installed "for you" since you seem to be asking a lot of questions you would know had you done the install yourself. Did you not go through the D60 before installing? I'm assuming you never took the axles out to put new ujoints in, the axle seals were already in good shape, no gears/locker done? All these things would have led to pulling the axle apart and a good understanding of Ujoint install, kingpin and/or balljoints, knuckles/spindle nuts, brakes, etc.

Not knocking on you here, just trying to understand.

oh, the outer spindle nut is more than 100ftlbs, at least on a 44. It's actually something more like 180 or so (I've heard some people mention 210), but the reality is....have you ever tried to use the 4 prong spindle nut socket on a torque wrench and actually get it past maybe 140 without it slipping and stripping the nut and socket? And then you can't get the dang thing off if you needed to on the trail. What I have always done that has never failed me is about 120-140 on the outer, which for me is just at the point where I'm going to have trouble keeping pressure on the tool and turning at the same time so I don't strip the nut. I've never had a spindle nut back off on me. make sure you get the little keyed lockwasher in properly as well.
 

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When you tightened the lugs the last time did you do this with the tire on the ground? You need to tighten them with tire off the ground, then let it down for final torque. this ensures the wheel is fully against the hub mounting surface.
I always torque/drive and then re-torque. Then periodically re-torque. Mind
you this is all by hand as in no air tools. I had a 33" tire fall off while driving
55mph with no warning. After this happens you get real careful. :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
50 back off 90* not half a turn (which if you take a torque wrench will discover there should still be a little there, thus the 15ftlb), Basically it's best in my experience to go by feel....i.e. what you are shooting for is you don't want the inner "loose", nor do you want it to drag the bearing. This AFTER you have seated the bearings by going up to the 50ftlbs or so.

I asked about the D60 front installed "for you" since you seem to be asking a lot of questions you would know had you done the install yourself. Did you not go through the D60 before installing? I'm assuming you never took the axles out to put new ujoints in, the axle seals were already in good shape, no gears/locker done? All these things would have led to pulling the axle apart and a good understanding of Ujoint install, kingpin and/or balljoints, knuckles/spindle nuts, brakes, etc.

Not knocking on you here, just trying to understand.

oh, the outer spindle nut is more than 100ftlbs, at least on a 44. It's actually something more like 180 or so (I've heard some people mention 210), but the reality is....have you ever tried to use the 4 prong spindle nut socket on a torque wrench and actually get it past maybe 140 without it slipping and stripping the nut and socket? And then you can't get the dang thing off if you needed to on the trail. What I have always done that has never failed me is about 120-140 on the outer, which for me is just at the point where I'm going to have trouble keeping pressure on the tool and turning at the same time so I don't strip the nut. I've never had a spindle nut back off on me. make sure you get the little keyed lockwasher in properly as well.


I do have some knolledge about the front rear.. As far as gears and such, i wouldnt try to do them on someone elses axles, just for the fear of a axle locking up because something wasnt set right.... I bought the gears, install kits, and lockers and drove the truck to a shop to have them do it.... As far as rebuilding the Dana 60 goes, I did replace the axle joints when i first got it(well i pulled the shafts and dropped them at a shop with the new axle joints, and had them do it... but i used cheapo pepboy ones which is why there shot already) So this time i bought spicer axle joints, and i want to do everything myself... Just so i know how to do it... As far as me checking on the spindal nut torque specs, i wanted to make sure that what i did in the past was correct.... Nothing like second guessing myself:doh0715: I also repacked the bearings with grease and such, turned the rotors, and added new pads, and rebuilt calipers..... Wheel seals were also replaced.....

on a nother note, Im going to end up buying a press today...

And btw, thanks for the help Shadow
 
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