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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pumping pedal would not give any stiffer pedal. Replaced the master, drivers side rotor, front pads & a caliper that the previous owner "forgot" to tell me he had stripped the bleeder on. Anyway I bled the system (right rear, left rear, right front, left front). The chilton says that if you are going to bleed the system with a pressure bleeder I would need to bleed the pressure dif valve to. But since I am just doing the old way with someone pumping pedal I did NOT bleed it. I did prior have the vibrating brake pedal which is why I changed the rotor (fixed now). During the bleeding procedure the pedal started to feel stiff and normal, but when I started the bronco up and took it for a short test drive the pedal is right back to the way it was before. I should metion I bled the system with the bronco off. does bleeding with it running have any different effect on brake bleeding? I am thinking may the power booster or is it possible that the rear pads could be out of adjustment causing this? To add the e-brake does not work. It is hooked up but has no effect thats why I am wondering if the rear brakes are the problem.

Any ideas would be great.
 

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Not the booster, never is - unless its hard to apply the brakes. You need to bleed lots, I always put two jugs through mine and I never have a problem. So get a couple jugs and go to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok I have bled 3 times now and now the fluid in the system is clean. Still spongy pedal. I did the reverse start stop and made no difference. It does not bottom out any longer nor wobble but still has pretty good travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yup. was atleast 6 or 7 plunges. It was spitting fluide pretty good while pushing the plunger.
 

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Ok I have bled 3 times now and now the fluid in the system is clean. Still spongy pedal. I did the reverse start stop and made no difference. It does not bottom out any longer nor wobble but still has pretty good travel.
Just because its clean doesn't mean you don't have air behind it, considering the rear brakes give you the firm peddle feel I would bleed them more. And you had some improvement so that tells us you did indeed have air in the system, likely still do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will check the rear breaks this weekend. The cal is on right (Bleeder is on top). Thanks again guys I will post what I find. I keep finding little things the PO did and forgot to mention so I would not be surprised if some of the rear brake components are missing completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well finally got around to tearing into this problem again. I yanked the rear wheels off. Passenger side had pads replaced. The drivers side had not been done :banghead Not to mention it was really rusty but thankfull just surface. Shoes where completely worn down on the drivers side rear. The self adjuster cable was rusted an brokn. The bottom half of the cable was rusted under the cable slide clip/bracket thing. That what was holding that adjuster parts from just falling down into the drum and causing more damage. Where the cable had rusted apart and was stuck under the slider/bracket looked too me as if PO thought instead of replacing the broken part he just wedged the broken end under the sider/bracket.

So I spent a few hours replacing all springs, shoes and adjusters for both sides. The pistons where good and not leaking on either side. Bled the system like 3 times. Now it is working good.

The PO was a chevy guy so I guess thats why he did what he did. People like this deserve :lowblow Just wanted to close this thread with a resolution. Thanks ll for the help.
 

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Glad you got it done. It took me quite a few times to bleed mine too. I had air trapped in the back & I ran through about 4 1/2 containers of fluid till I got that air pocket out. I had also put a new master cylinder on so I new it would have a lot in there. I started bleeding but didn't follow the RR,LR,RF,LF pattern at first & when I did I started feeling a firmer pedal by the time a got to the LR caliper. -Kevin-:thumbup
 
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