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Discussion Starter #1
It’s day 1

Are there any good threads on this because when I google info on it I only find a couple incomplete videos. Kit comes with NO directions




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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Do u have a link to the kit you got? Also details on ur rig plz.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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there are a few posts on parts of it... but not the whole thing. I think most people whom spring for that have already done a truck or two (not a slam on you I think its cool going all out). As such they already have a good idea of what is going on.
I know the solo parts do locate off of stock points, so it should not be too bad to figure out how it goes once you start holding stuff up to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
there are a few posts on parts of it... but not the whole thing. I think most people whom spring for that have already done a truck or two (not a slam on you I think its cool going all out). As such they already have a good idea of what is going on.
I know the solo parts do locate off of stock points, so it should not be too bad to figure out how it goes once you start holding stuff up to the frame.
No offense taken, yes this is a lot to start with! Is rather “cry once” as they say.

I guess I need to blog the whole thing then.


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Discussion Starter #6
Do u have a link to the kit you got? Also details on ur rig plz.
Here is the link... Stage 4 Long-Travel Front+Rear Suspension Kit / Bronco | Solo Motorsports

I also added Solo’s HD steering package which isn’t required but is advised.

My rig was part of the first gambler 500

It is a 1980 with
Coyote Motor (search Broncoyote for thread on that install if you’d like)
ZF S47 5 speed
NP 208 transfer case
4.25 gears
Ford 9” true trac
33” tires


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Discussion Starter #7
Step 1 remove all wheels and tires and lay out the parts to see if I can guess where it all goes (again there is no manual)




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Please post larger pictures if possible.
Good luck with your "solo" journey!
 

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The tabs in the bottom corners of the picture are the coilover mounts and get welded onto the front of each beam; the tube and larger brackets on the bottom is your bypass shock mount; you should be able to figure everything else out, but the placement is going to rely upon mock up and cycling of the suspension. I'd call Solo and see if they can give you some base starting points for each of the components.

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There is lots of info on Go Fast Bronco & Race-dezert.com. The 2 things that you need to know . 1) pass side radius arm bracket mounting point. 2) Front lower shock mounting. Would be best to call and ask Bobby. Let him know you have a ZF trans. PM if you need more info
 

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Cool build.
I totally get the cry once approach. Nothing wrong with that. Should be sweet rig once it's "done"
 

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1994 EB 5.8 E4od with manual T case.
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Wow super excited to follow this, I have solo's stock width front end with bilsteins at all 4 corners.
Even with stock leafs I love the way it rides, cant imagine how awesome king C/O's and the Q80 will be.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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You don't really need instructions to install the stage 4 kit. Everything lines up with at least one stock bolt location, just drill in the rest and weld up the coilover mounts. Get a good corded drill, some high end bits, a chisel, and a BFH to remove all of the rivets.

If you need any reference photos, just shoot me a PM and I can snag some for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the info/support gentlemen! Much appreciated!


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Discussion Starter #15
Anyone got ideas to get this off? Rear brake line where it goes from frame to axle for drum brakes.

I cut the line but still need to get that off so I can put the new one on.

Vice grips didn’t work and I cut the line and tried to put a 5/8 wrench around it but the edges are rusted and bent.




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Discussion Starter #17
Can someone either describe or point me to where I can learn about cycling suspension?

I get the point generally which is to make sure it can move all the way up and down without clearance or driveline angle issues... but what’s the simplest way to do that?

Do I put a floor jack under the pumpkin in the back? Then on the front what’s the protocol?


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Can someone either describe or point me to where I can learn about cycling suspension?

I get the point generally which is to make sure it can move all the way up and down without clearance or driveline angle issues... but what’s the simplest way to do that?

Do I put a floor jack under the pumpkin in the back? Then on the front what’s the protocol?


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the brake line, is it not like the front? there is a clip you pull out then there is a fitting on the back side you need to undo.

As for cycling the suspension, you need to check both up and down, under the pumpkin like you said, but also articulation, where you raise only one side and let the other droops as much as possible. do that for each side. that checks for rotational bind of components, whereas only going up and down does not rotate the heim joints, flex traction bars, or panhards or what have you. for link suspensions you can do this without the springs in place to check the linkages. For leaf suspensions you need to do it with the leafs in place as those act like your linkages.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the brake line, is it not like the front? there is a clip you pull out then there is a fitting on the back side you need to undo.

As for cycling the suspension, you need to check both up and down, under the pumpkin like you said, but also articulation, where you raise only one side and let the other droops as much as possible. do that for each side. that checks for rotational bind of components, whereas only going up and down does not rotate the heim joints, flex traction bars, or panhards or what have you. for link suspensions you can do this without the springs in place to check the linkages. For leaf suspensions you need to do it with the leafs in place as those act like your linkages.
How do I do that with leaf springs on? Use the floor jack on one side while the truck is on jack stands?


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