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Discussion Starter #1
ok so this is the problem. my rig runs like complete shit. lack of power.
suddenly catches power and speeds up bad shiffting. just shit.
im phone call away from callin a mobile mechanic!! unless on of you guys lives near
simi valley, ca southern californa. gladly by some beer for ya and a year subscription
upgrade to fullsize member if anyone can help!

my inital code scan cleared for KOEO
the KOER gave me a 33 code- EGR Valve fault.
i replaced the EGR Valve and smog pump with new ones from Orielly's.

i ran the KOEO test. got a 34 Continuous memory code. 11-10-34 the order in
which the codes appeared.

i ran the KOER test and got code #s 44-34. in that order
34 says it could be a defective EGR transducer sensor
44 is a termactor air fault.

ive been searching everywhere. and in a post, it mentioned to remove the thermistor
cuz it made his rig run better. so i did that as well and it ran pretty good. i just dont
know what to do. im phone call away from callin a mobile mechanic!! unless on of you
guys lives near simi valley, ca southern californa. gladly by some beer for ya and a year
subscription upgrade to fullsize member if anyone can help! its been sitting for a while.
new rebuilt motor. my guess less than 50 miles on it so im itchin to get it on the street!
 

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Code: 44 - thermactor air injection system fault....is essentially a "vaccum leak" so you should begin a visual inspection of ALL emissions parts to help narrow it down BUT some Broncos like mine have an exhaust injection cross over tube bolted to the back of the cylinder heads with a "check valve" pipe style threaded in the tube top and over time from heat and mositure the check valve burns/rusts thru now sucking in air changing the EGR air stream Down going out the CAT instead of UP starving the system.

So I'd get a bright light and check this FIRST....^

This vaccum leak affects performance where the engine feels like it's missing, loss of power, ignition detonation, bucking going up/down hill and poor shifting until the rpms smooth out in stop and go traffic so I had to learn going uphill to slow down enough to downshift into 1st gear for more power rather then beat the crap out of the tranny putting it under load in passing gear everytime, it's very harsh.

The tube is in a PITA location at the back of the engine near the firewall....BUT you can get the drivers side bolt, either 1/2 or 5/8 from underneath reaching upwards so put something under your back to help and the passenger side bolt from up above at the top of the engine bay reaching down at the back so put something there so your knees don't suffer.

Once off put the tube in a vice grip and with a big wrench unscrew the valve making note how far threading is set in so you can duplicate it for the new one, these are available at most auto stores for around $20.00 or look here Pollution Control Industry...www.pciinc.com and they have a good inventory of these parts though the tube itself is thick metal and fairly durable so just run a wire wheel over it and clean it up and see if there's any rust, holes etc.

When reinstalling the tube there's no need for the small gaskets but rather use "bearing grease" that will shallak from engine heat nicely to make a good seal otherwise the gaskets can burn thru and cause a vaccum leak again...FSB member Steve83 tech tip.

Hope this helps...You can do this by yourself

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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You can do a series of vaccum checks on your Bronco too. You can also verify that your smog valves are all working by following the Haynes manual diagnostics on them. I wonder if the cross over tube, and valve only rust through back East. That code 44 is a pita, but it looks like both are tied to each other. Have you messed with anything in there recently, besides the pump, and egr? You might have a loose c-clamp on one of the hoses.
 

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No they rust here too, mine did and it was a real PITA to track down because you can't get a good look at the check valve because it's just below the lower intake manifold at the back of the engine close to the fire wall so that's why I always suggest for code: 44 go directly to that check valve first and then back track over the emissions system.

There is also an air bypass valve just behind the fuel injection plenum out of sight, another check valve tied to that going down to the CAT and then the cross over tube check valve all of which are tied together with hoses, it's a weird set up.

let us know what you find!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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