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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #1
So I’m sure there are 100 different opinions on this stuff but I’m about to strip my interior out, install a full sound system and while I have my interior out I’m wanting to insulate it. Obviously we’ve all heard of dynamat and lately I’ve seen noico on eBay but I had a buddy tell me about “peel and seal” at Lowe’s and Home Depot. I have commercial accounts at both and can get them fairly cheap. Anyone have any experience with this? Any ONE product stock out above the rest?? Is there a noticeable difference when done? Also, I have see some people use wall insulation in the back panels so I’m thinking about doing this. Is that okay to use on the doors as well?? Long story short, I’m keeping this “forever” so I’m wanting to make it as nice as possible. With a 6” lift and 35’s it has plenty of rattles and squeaks and I’m wanting to take those out so on longer 3 hour trips to deer camp, my wife isn’t wanting to kill me. Lol.


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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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305 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
How much am I going to need to order and what thickness are you all going with!? Looks like there is about 10,000 different types?


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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #4
Bump


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I used what LVSteve linked - the 80mm Noico in my doors and panels. Works great and easy to install even for not insulating the floor. Big difference in the doors when closing - they feel solid.
The 36 square feet in the link did the doors, quarter panels, rear wheel wells and the hood, under the cowl.
 

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I used LMC’s version and it was great. Quite sticky but not too sticky. Easy to cut with tin snips and easy to mold around contours. An awl is a great tool to have for finding holes etc as well while doing this project.
159775
 

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1990 Ford Bronco Custom, 5.0L EFI AOD Manual Hubs
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I am doing the same thing and ordered Killmat from Amazon along with some rollers. I will post pics and more when i get it done.
~Erik
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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305 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, it appears that I may have a lot of leftover LOL. I ordered four boxes and the rollers last night. I guess I will do all of the interior and maybe send back what I don’t use or sell it locally. I will update this thread whenever I get it installed.


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I used the Noico as well. It took me forever to get it all down, but wasn't bad overall.
Hopefully the rollers you got are of decent quality, because I bent the couple I got very quickly. I used a tennis ball for the rest of it, which worked for me. Take some pictures and put em up here when you've got it done.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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305 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I used the Noico as well. It took me forever to get it all down, but wasn't bad overall.
Hopefully the rollers you got are of decent quality, because I bent the couple I got very quickly. I used a tennis ball for the rest of it, which worked for me. Take some pictures and put em up here when you've got it done.
Will do. Where all did you install?


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I did the entire front floorboard of the Bronco, but not the dash, the sides of the cargo area including the wheel wells and then I then used two layers of heavy duty jute padding in the rear. The sound and rattle deadening properties is amazing..
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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305 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Quick question....I’m planning on doing this hopefully next week. I’m obviously doing the tub, up the sides, doors and roof. When you all covered over your trans tunnel, did you just flow over it or custom cut pieces for that so if you ever need to remove it? Do you guys take the screws out, cover it and then reinstall or go over the screws?? Same for body mounts? I’m replacing them with the energy poly mounts so I don’t ever plan on that again. Thoughts??


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I cut it up into pieces for the trans tunnel and other areas of the floor. They were still rather large pieces though. I only remember putting the screws through the sound deadener on the front door speakers, but I'm not sure if it matters. Also, You don't need 100% coverage to be effective. Aim for no less than 75% and you'll be good. I put down MLV (mass loaded vinyl) afterwards to soak up most of the noise.
 

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I also covered the transmission access panel separately in the event it ever needed service. Also moved all of the wiring to be on top. Hang tight, might have a picture. Make sure you have an awl or ice pick.
 

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Nope, no picture of cover. But looking reminded me that I did make heavy card stock templates that I then copied to the sound deadener. Made it easier than just guessing. For what it’s worth.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #19
I went ahead and ordered the noico 130mil to go over the 80mil I have now. From what I read, that closed cell foam will really help with heat and noise especially when applied on top of the other. We shall see!!


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