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The ULTIMATE sound deadening thread, of which I am a big part of and offered MANY tips/info. It's just way to much to type here and as you read through it, many others have used the same materials with great results... My user ID there (so you can read my replies): Cobra Jet NJ

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=432018

:)
 

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88pimpin said:
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I'd go with Secondskin Damplifier, or Damplifier Pro. Mil Spec.

Cheaper than Dynamat and you can often find discounts for about 10% off.
Products Reviewed: B-Quiet Extreme and Ultimate, Brown Bread, Cascade Audio Engineering VB2, Dynamic Control Dynamat Original and Dynamat Xtreme, Elemental Designs eDead v1 and eDead v1SE, FatMat, RAAMaudio RAAMmat BXT, Second Skin Damplifier and Damplifier Pro.
 

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Edead is ok, but don't put it on your roof. As long as it is on the floor or side walls, but not too high - you should not have problems. The real issue is that Edead (and a number of other sound deadeners) are asphalt based. Overtime, the heating and freezing of outdoor temperatures will make the material more brittle and it can easily breakaway overtime. Plus, asphalt based deadeners are really not much more than slightly thicker (if that) versions of Peel and Seal. I own part of a chemical distribution company and one of our largest customers manufacturers a version of Peel and Seal type material for commercial roof installations. They also place a different, non stamped foil cover on the material and sell it to a company that distributes it as audio vibration deadener - no changes to the actual product at all!

The newer stuff, like Second Skin Audio's damplifier, damp Pro, and Dynamat Extreme use butyl instead of Asphalt. Butyl has a better chemical compound for withstanding temperature variations and does not add the same road construction smell to your car as the product is installed or deteriorates overtime. Of course, in areas of the South and Southwest where temperatures get extreme in the summer, some versions of Peel and Seal are even made with Butyl. Basically, it is all built to do the same thing at some level, so it has similar characteristics.

The guy who owns Second Skin is named Anthony. He is a good business man and just a nice guy. He will help you figure out what exactly you need to do to get your FSB as quiet as possible - even if you choose someone elses product. Plus, I looked at his website and he has some additional noise reduction products. Because the mat type products reduce vibration transfer - thus reducing noise transferred through the surface, but don't block noise that enters through airspaces and gaps.

Edit addition: Plus, if you tell Ant that you are a member of caraudioforum.com, you can get 20% of his products. You might search the forum about sound deadener, there are dozens of threads from people talking about each one and their results.
 

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Man, I haven't been on caraudioforum since May 8, 2004. Been a while. I'm usually on CarStereos.org (aka SoundIllusions.Net).
 

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Is there anything that I can use to quiet the inside of the Bronco down without actually sticking tar and crap to the metal? Could I cut a template or something and stick the crap to that instead of the Bronco?

Or does the stuff peel off easily? If it does, hey, problem solved.
 

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Won't peel off easily. Read that website I posted.

Put your hand over a bell and ring it. Now put your hand on the bell and ring it. You can tell the difference. The sound deadening needs to be touching the metal.
 

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I little sheet of visquine or something like that would be unacceptable?

I know the really good stuff that you talked about in the link will stick hard; I was just wondering if there was something that will let go easier.
 

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The key to vibration deadening is adding weight. That is effectively what you are doing by adding the mat or liquid deadening products. You are just adding weight to your door, floor, tailgate, whatever. The added weight makes it harder for the metal to transmit vibrations. Thus reducing the noise caused by such vibrations.

GIven that, the products that were being discussed will not work unless they are actually attached to the vehicle. Otherwise, you could just lug your weight set around in the back of your Bronco and your truck would be quieter.

You could probably try some of the sound deadening products that are built to reduce non-vibration transmitted sound. Something similar to filling your door with something closed cell foam, that would help somewhat in reducing the sound a little. It would close off the open air passages and thus any outside noise that gets through.

But that is going to minor compared to vibration deadening. If you truly want to reduce noise in your vehicle, the single most important step you can do is reducing vibration. Once you have accomplished this, you can look into adding other sound deadening methods.
 

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88pimpin said:
Man, I haven't been on caraudioforum since May 8, 2004. Been a while. I'm usually on CarStereos.org (aka SoundIllusions.Net).
Well, it still stinks to be honest. I don't go often because there are only 2 kinds of people

- 16 year olds that are only interested in SPL, have a $500 total budget, and don't understand that a 60 Ampere input for an amplifier will not product 4000watts, despite what Boss or Audiobahn says

or

- older guys who tell you whatever you are wanting to install is not right, you should buy this brand instead because that is what they have installed, and then explain why to buy it to some poor newb by referencing how if he would just build a box 2 cf bigger than his trunk and tune it to 32 hz, it would make him deaf by 20.

But a few saving grace people like Anthony from Second Skin or the guys that help out with box tuning, etc. make an occasional trip worthwhile.
 
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