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....ehhh
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I was starting to make a spare tire carrier that goes in the bed, like a baja style. But then I decided maybe I will try the bumper mounted style again.

(I destroyed the stock carrier that mounts to the body besideds it won't hold a 37" tire and stand up to my abuse, it broke with a 35)

My problem is at the latch to hold the carrier in one place.

Will anyone share thier really good ideas for a latch to hold the carrier in one spot.
 

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Heres what I just did on mine:



Works like this:



Also, I recommend looking up Big Mike's latch design. It has been tested on Bronkzilla's rig and tons others. I think it was the only latch that could hold Bronkzilla's tire without breaking.
 

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Tractor supply.

I just welded a washer on the bottom and filled the hole in that with weld so it was all sealed off (with intentions of keeping water out of the bumper and having the bumper air tight for an air tank.)
 

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I use a latch, and just build the catch for it. If you wanted to get cheap about it, you could try a deadbolt from an old door :shrug hahaa, a keyed deadbolt :histerica
 

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davids78bronco said:
I use a latch, and just build the catch for it. If you wanted to get cheap about it, you could try a deadbolt from an old door :shrug hahaa, a keyed deadbolt :histerica
Maybe I'm just a paranoid nutjob, but I kind of like that idea. Pretty damn secure. Of course, keeping mud out of the lock would be a challenge.
 

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Carrier design was sketched out and a welder traded some work for tubing, parts and so forth. BKO was measured, then final fit was by hand. Just to let you know, it's one heavy sob.

BTW, if you go with this design, reverse the swing.....a fubar was created by
letting the carrier swing to the driver's side. The fubar is a whole other story.
 

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Marauder said:
Heres what I just did on mine:



Works like this:



Also, I recommend looking up Big Mike's latch design. It has been tested on Bronkzilla's rig and tons others. I think it was the only latch that could hold Bronkzilla's tire without breaking.


I have also been looking for a good latch design for the bumper I'm working on.

Do you get any rattling with that set up?
 

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Broncomeaux said:


Carrier design was sketched out and a welder traded some work for tubing, parts and so forth. BKO was measured, then final fit was by hand. Just to let you know, it's one heavy sob.

BTW, if you go with this design, reverse the swing.....a fubar was created by
letting the carrier swing to the driver's side. The fubar is a whole other story.
Do you have a shot from behind it looks like those upright tubes would block the tail lights or hit the tailgate
 

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....ehhh
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Discussion Starter #13
Marauder said:
Heres what I just did on mine:



Works like this:



Also, I recommend looking up Big Mike's latch design. It has been tested on Bronkzilla's rig and tons others. I think it was the only latch that could hold Bronkzilla's tire without breaking.
Yeah, do you get any sag? or do you have a wedge that brings it back up when closed.?

Did your hitch pin have a hole in it for the roll pin already?
 

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No sag because we havent welded the hoop and mounted a spare tire on it so there is no pressure on it. I will probably end up adding a pad on the end as David has suggested before to keep pressure off the hinge.

Hitch pin already had that standard hole at the end of it but we cut that part off and redrilled a hole at the right spot. We ended up just using a clevis pin but I recommend a roll pin because as soon as we welded up the cap on it the clevis got jammed at a weird angle so it cant go down an the extra 1/4th that it should.

Oh and no rattling. That hitch pin fits in there perfectly. I think I would hear more rattling with the pressure off of it too and I dont hear any. It would probably be damped once I mount the spare on it.
 

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ToddACimer said:
Do you have a shot from behind it looks like those upright tubes would block the tail lights or hit the tailgate

Not a definitive pic that will show what you want to see.

There is 1/8" clearance for tailgate, no problems to date.

The rear lights are partially blocked, maybe 1-1/4". Plenty of light emits
and rig has passed annual state inspection as well as scrutiny from one
fellow with a badge and a sidearm.
 
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