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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an 86 with a 302, recently just wouldn't start, have replaced cap, coil, TFI module, pickup, plugs, and the wires, but still won't start. Tried both HO and non HO firing order, timing has gone 360 degrees, just will not start. Is there anyone who has had this problem and could offer insight? have also removed the resistor between ignition switch and coil if that has anything to do with it, initially had no spark until that was removed
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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I’d manually check top dead center by feeling the number one cylinder VERY lightly with (I use) a long 1/4 inch ratchet extension in the plug hole while hand cranking, you’ll know when it’s at the top and you feel it going back down. Then check your timing mark and dizzy position.
 

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Yo 86bronco5.0pos,
Welcome!
Did you remove the Spark Output (SPOUT) Connector shorting bar?
158395

SPOUT Connector pic in an 88 5.0 by jem270
"...I noticed that when I unplugged the SPOUT connector to check base timing, and let the engine run at base timing, it never died. Unfortunately, this pointed me back to the PCM as a possible cause of my fault. But, when I plugged the SPOUT connector back together, I could make the engine falter and die by gently twisting the harness. Yes! I was sure I had located the fault, and I was right. Look at the figure with the yellow spark output signal wire that is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger.
Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out.
The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger.
This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation.
Heat Is Your Enemy!:
The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot."
Read more @ Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
□⊙□
How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L). @ Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

➡Skipping fuel and ignition tests to:
Checking Engine Mechanical Condition
One of the most overlooked areas, when testing a hard to diagnose no start, is the mechanical condition of your 4.9L, 5.0L or 5.8L Ford car, pick up, van or SUV.

Checking the engine mechanical condition means an engine compression test.
  1. When performing an engine compression test, what you're looking for is an average compression reading of less than 90 PSI across all or the majority of the engine cylinders.
  2. If you have one or just two readings that are under 90 PSI your Ford vehicle will still start and run, albeit with a misfire condition.
  3. I've written a ‘How to do a Compression Test’ article that you may find useful. Although this article is geared towards finding a hard to diagnose misfire (and written for the 4.6L and 5.4L engines), if you have never done a compression test, this article will help you: How To Test Engine Compression (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
□⊙□⊙••
Here is the 1986 Bronco ELECTRICAL & VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL (partial) by Gary @ 1986 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)
See more info by Gary.

1986 Bronco Operating Guide @ 1983 Ford Bronco Manuals & Pamphlets (Scanned) picture | SuperMotors.net

1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments by Gary @ 1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments

1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 Pickup Fasteners by Gary @ Ford 1980-86 Pickup Fasteners

86 Bronco Dealer Brochure at 1983 Ford Bronco 86 Bronco Brochure Photos pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Forum FAQs, includes how to post pics, etc

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

See our Full-Size of the Quarter & Full-Size of the Year Contests @ Voting
You will get mod ideas by those competing!
Also see the prizes! They are freaking awesome!
Al
 

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Registered
Joined
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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yo 86bronco5.0pos,
Welcome!
Did you remove the Spark Output (SPOUT) Connector shorting bar?
View attachment 158395
SPOUT Connector pic in an 88 5.0 by jem270
"...I noticed that when I unplugged the SPOUT connector to check base timing, and let the engine run at base timing, it never died. Unfortunately, this pointed me back to the PCM as a possible cause of my fault. But, when I plugged the SPOUT connector back together, I could make the engine falter and die by gently twisting the harness. Yes! I was sure I had located the fault, and I was right. Look at the figure with the yellow spark output signal wire that is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger.
Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out.
The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger.
This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation.
Heat Is Your Enemy!:
The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot."
Read more @ Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
□⊙□
How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L). @ Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

➡Skipping fuel and ignition tests to:
Checking Engine Mechanical Condition
One of the most overlooked areas, when testing a hard to diagnose no start, is the mechanical condition of your 4.9L, 5.0L or 5.8L Ford car, pick up, van or SUV.

Checking the engine mechanical condition means an engine compression test.
  1. When performing an engine compression test, what you're looking for is an average compression reading of less than 90 PSI across all or the majority of the engine cylinders.
  2. If you have one or just two readings that are under 90 PSI your Ford vehicle will still start and run, albeit with a misfire condition.
  3. I've written a ‘How to do a Compression Test’ article that you may find useful. Although this article is geared towards finding a hard to diagnose misfire (and written for the 4.6L and 5.4L engines), if you have never done a compression test, this article will help you: How To Test Engine Compression (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
□⊙□⊙••
Here is the 1986 Bronco ELECTRICAL & VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL (partial) by Gary @ 1986 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)
See more info by Gary.

1986 Bronco Operating Guide @ 1983 Ford Bronco Manuals & Pamphlets (Scanned) picture | SuperMotors.net

1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments by Gary @ 1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments

1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 Pickup Fasteners by Gary @ Ford 1980-86 Pickup Fasteners

86 Bronco Dealer Brochure at 1983 Ford Bronco 86 Bronco Brochure Photos pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Forum FAQs, includes how to post pics, etc

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

See our Full-Size of the Quarter & Full-Size of the Year Contests @ Voting
You will get mod ideas by those competing!
Also see the prizes! They are freaking awesome!
Al
i appreciate the assistance, but its not a falter/die thing, it simply wont start, new problem seems to have arisen, replaced a broken wire that shared a frame ground with the wiper motor, and a ground on the back of the engine block, in doing so i left out an orange wire, because it appears to have been clean cut, and the other end was nowhere to be found, it now seems that my starter motor is not getting enough power to start, charged battery to 16.4v and used a 275a starter to try to help it along, but it still just wont start, it seems that the ignition failures are causing cascades, cant test if any of these methods work
 

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'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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