[Gerk]

I am going to replace all of my U-joints on both front and rear driveshafts.
Going to stick with Dana Spicer.
Are all Ujoints the same size?
I believe I have 5 to change on the shaft. 2 up front and 3 in rear.
Do I order 5 of the same?
RockAuto has a huge selection that say different things.

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Ive seen parts
Dana Spicer 57438X
and
Dana Spicer 51204x

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Siggy89]

FWIW this is a job that I always outsource. Mainly because of the double cardon joint. There is a pivot piece inside there that has most likely gone bad by now, and is a real challenge to get to. If you pull the rear driveshaft yourself and take it to a driveline shop they should be able to remove/replace the U-joints, spin balance the shaft, and paint. All for around $300. But that's here in northern VA. Probably even cheaper elsewhere. Some of the best money you'll ever spend!

As for the front shaft it isn't as important to have that balanced since you're not really "hauling ass" in 4x4. So the front shaft can be done yourself with a rental ball joint press. As for the part # I don't remember, but just look it up on Autozone or similar. Should get you there.

All the U-joints are NOT the same.

 

[slimpartywagon]

FWIW this is a job that I always outsource. Mainly because of the double cardon joint. There is a pivot piece inside there that has most likely gone bad by now, and is a real challenge to get to. If you pull the rear driveshaft yourself and take it to a driveline shop they should be able to remove/replace the U-joints, spin balance the shaft, and paint. All for around $300. But that's here in northern VA. Probably even cheaper elsewhere. Some of the best money you'll ever spend!

As for the front shaft it isn't as important to have that balanced since you're not really "hauling ass" in 4x4. So the front shaft can be done yourself with a rental ball joint press. As for the part # I don't remember, but just look it up on Autozone or similar. Should get you there.

All the U-joints are NOT the same.

The machine shop here charges 150 for the same service… shop around.

 

[BigBlue 94]

It varies by year on what size they are. 1330 and 1310. Some have 2 bigger caps.

The DC joint isnt too hard honestly. I rebuilt mine in the sand in Moab. If changing joints, its best to do the DC joint as well

Spicer is THE BEST.

You have 3 u-joints on the front axle shafts as well. They are spicer 5-760X

 

[miesk5]

Yo Gerk,
See Dana Spicer parts @ https://www.danaaftermarket.com/

& Driveshaft Joints @ https://www.danaaftermarket.com/aut...int/list?cat1=LVB&cat2=LV&cat3=CVJOINT&sort=1

 

[robbz28]

Best to take it off so you know what joints you have, because as mentioned, there are different sizes. I ordered a "kit" that had all 3 joints and only one of them fit. I was in a bind because i needed it to work that day so i drove up to autozone and the guy there was really cool and just started grabbing ujoints until we found one that matched the one that came out (which were the original spicers just had no number on them)

 

[Gerk]

I think I will just remove and hopefully find some part numbers and go from there. I wasn't sure if there were just certain Ujoints that always go in certain places.
Do they have part numbers stamped on them?
I did notice the end cap on 1 had Spicer stamped into end cap.
If it looks overwhelming, I will take to a driveline shop

 

[BigBlue 94]

I think I will just remove and hopefully find some part numbers and go from there. I wasn't sure if there were just certain Ujoints that always go in certain places.
Do they have part numbers stamped on them?
I did notice the end cap on 1 had Spicer stamped into end cap.
If it looks overwhelming, I will take to a driveline shop

Its not too hard. Remove the drive shaft and measure the u-joints. Make sure to measure 2 caps on each joint, 90° apart. Sometimes the joints will have bigger caps on two opposite studs and two smaller caps on the other two. Also measure from the outside edge of one cap, to the outside edge of the opposite cap.

I usually use a balljoint press to swap u-joints. And lots of penetrating fluid.

You can buy the double cardon ball and half-yoke as a unit, which makes things easier.

 

[GetBent4x4]

I used a shop press from harbor freight to change mine. And LOTS OF PATIENCE. I may have dragged it out for longer than a weekend too. Not sure about yours but mine had different Ujoints in the front according to Rockauto. I haven't did the front yet.

 

[robbz28]

I used a shop press from harbor freight to change mine. And LOTS OF PATIENCE. I may have dragged it out for longer than a weekend too. Not sure about yours but mine had different Ujoints in the front according to Rockauto. I haven't did the front yet.

A large enough vice, and some appropriately sized sockets and a ball peen hammer work great too. Have changed all my u-joints this way…and I’ve change a BUNCH of them working on irrigation units over the years at the farm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gerk]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
I pulled the rear driveshaft and removed the Ujoints.
They were toast.
I called a driveline shop to get a quote.(Id rather do it myself, but Ive never pressed in ujoints and I dont want to screw it up)
Their quote was $140 for all 3 Ujoints. Also said if the CV was bad, then they would have to rebuild the whole drive shaft and obviously that would be more money.

Thoughts on this? Should I attempt this job myself? Was that quote too high?
How would I know if CV was bad?
Thanks again for all your help

 

[slimpartywagon]

That quote was pretty spot on… a new stock Spicer driveshaft cost me $280