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Small two-jaw puller is how I do it. PITA because the jaws can slip off, but take it slow and it comes out fine. Gently tap the new one in like you would a regular bearing race (still waiting on my benchtop 6ton press and it should go in nicer with that). There was one I had to literally destroy to get it out, but eh, they're cheap and it good to replace them if you are that far in - I'd never remove the old one and insert the old one again.

--MIKE--
 

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I use a long, slim drift from the threaded end of the spindle to break the outer lip (looking into that end of the spindle, so it's really the INNER lip :shrug) of the bearing away so the needles fall out. Then I use a tiny chisel or flathead screwdriver to buckle the race away from the spindle until it cracks & releases. The new one goes in easily.
 

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:rofl:

I read through that thread about 5 times before starting this project. I even used it to determine what tools I needed to borrow from AutoZone. I must be a complete retard because the method you described to remove the spindle bearing did not work for me.
Steves method works good to. You really have to pound the shite out of the races with the slide to get them to pop. I mean, really really hard. Glad you read that, hope it helped at least a little!!!
 

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To allow the seal to compress slightly. If it was solid, it couldn't.

It has a direction, though I don't remember which right now. It's probably noted in the captions in my Brakes & Hubs album - have you checked?
 

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I think the double-lip faces INboard (toward the diff) so that if pressure is higher OUTside the hub (deep water), the double-lip will expand slightly, forming a tighter seal against the axleshaft & spindle bearing race.

But that's just a guess.
 

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Take that kit back, it sucks. All those stupid little pieces. You have a '96 like I do, use the same parts I did and you don't need to worry about what way anything faces.
 

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I just went through this with NAPA parts. The first thing he brought out was some bullsheit pieces - a metal slinger washer and a cheesy rubber-only gasket. I have a '96, but I cannot see them being too different. What I needed was:

B2110 Spindle bearing $12.50 ea
13144 Spindle seal $3.96 ea
18844 Axle seal $7.91 ea
(goes on the axle and rides against the spindle seal area)



--MIKE--
I can't even find those parts on the NAPA site :whiteflag
 

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See past 12. Part # 3 from Ford is the needle bearing seal with the plastic piec that usually separates. I bought one in the green box from pep boys and it was just a round piece of rubber. The Ford one was just as cheap as the aftermarket.

 

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On my 1990 it looks like the one i quoted above. I put it in like steve had said. (couldn't remember how it was before, but I don't count on the PO on being correct)
 

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:rolleyes: Man, I wouldn't want to see the insides of YOUR hubs after some fording... :duh
Of course, using the parts that I gave from NAPA, if someone *WAS* able to install them wrong, then they don't belong doing the work, or doing any water crossing.

What I said was:
use the same parts I did and you don't need to worry about what way anything faces.
Careful how much you chose to quote. ANYTHING can be taken out of context as you've just proven. ;-)
 

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I can't even find those parts on the NAPA site :whiteflag
Stan, cannot comment on their website. I tried it myself, and it is not working for me either.

I have the receipt, and that is where I pulled the numbers from. I've been down the road a few times with different NAPA's until they got me the parts I wanted. I always wound up with the wrong ones the first time around (the ones with the separate plastic and rubber parts that you have to figure out what to do with), so now I walk in with the part numbers and ask for those specific pieces. Problem solved.
 

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Of course, using the parts that I gave from NAPA...

Careful how much you chose to quote. ANYTHING can be taken out of context as you've just proven. ;-)
Yep, you really gotta be careful about taking things out of context... :rolleyes: Like links to dynamic web pages, or sites that use sessions, which can expire.
Because that might make it REALLY difficult for someone to know wtf you're talking about. :shrug




Start on this page, click "PartsPRO SE Catalog", switch the radio button to "Part Number", and enter "nos18844" or "nos13144" in the search box. :deal
 

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Stan, cannot comment on their website. I tried it myself, and it is not working for me either.

I have the receipt, and that is where I pulled the numbers from. I've been down the road a few times with different NAPA's until they got me the parts I wanted. I always wound up with the wrong ones the first time around (the ones with the separate plastic and rubber parts that you have to figure out what to do with), so now I walk in with the part numbers and ask for those specific pieces. Problem solved.
No worries Mike, JBG sells a kit for $12 for the 93-96. It has a new spindle bearing and both correct seals :thumbup
 

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Yep, you really gotta be careful about taking things out of context... :rolleyes: Like links to dynamic web pages, or sites that use sessions, which can expire.Because that might make it REALLY difficult for someone to know wtf you're talking about. :shrug
Since the link was following the part numbers, I "dare" say a web page that expires is less of a "problem" or "offense" than you misquoting me to make me look like I did something wrong, or was somehow less of a "man" than you are. Though you generally supply tons of good info, it is not a license to attack someone and bring down the value of a thread, Steve. Learn to work with "normal" people instead of always being "like that." :banghead


Start on this page, click "PartsPRO SE Catalog", switch the radio button to "Part Number", and enter "nos18844" or "nos13144" in the search box. :deal
Thank you.
 
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