spout in--ping. spout out--no ping.

weird!

so check this out. I went back out to my bronco to track down the ground issue that was found last night, and checked the exact points i checked last night (battery negative post to ground pins 40 and 60 of EEC), and the resistance was 1.0 ohm! I almost fell on the ground i was so pissed! So, i stepped back for a second and tried to think of what changed. I didn't drive the bronco. I was using the same meter (which was actually hooked up all night). The only think i could think that was different was that i had the door open on the drivers side which caused the "dinger" to "ding" and the theft light to flash on the instrument panel. So, i opened the door back up, and there it was--the resistance climbed back up to 13 ohms. I put that in the back of my mind as I started inspecting and cleaning up my grounds from the negative post of the battery over to my EEC.
After cleaning up my grounds I was able to get the resistance down to 8 ohms. However, when i read the 8 ohms (with the door open and dinger dinging) the resistance was oscillating from 8 to something that i couldn't read. I noticed that the oscillation was at the same frequency as the theft light was flashing on/off. This got me going back in the direction of the faulty anti-theft module that the previous owner had "bypassed". So, i pulled the fuse that was labeled to go to the anti-theft/keyless entry system, and noted that the plastic section of the fuse itself was melted. Now, I'm stuck--I don't even know where the anti-theft module is and don't even know if this little tangent i'm on is the issue. HELP!

arent the fenders and most of the body made out of aluminum? sorry if i'm wrong and that sounds dumb--auto-body is not something i know much about, however mixing copper and aluminum together--is. The reason i chose aluminum wire was due to me thinking the body was made out of aluminum.
Tonight, I suped up the grounds around in the engine compartment. I put some NEW straps connecting the fenders to the firewall. In doing this I found that opening the door, turning on lights, and turning on the ignition made the ohmic value from my grounds to the negative post on the battery increase dramatically. With headlights on bright, door open (chime and dome light), and hood light on I read somewhere around 80 ohms from my ground near the STI connector to the negative post on the battery. I decided to isolate various circuits to see if any ONE circuit was causing the spike in ohms and I found it. One by one i pulled each fuse while watching my meter to see if the ohms dropped. Once i got to a 50 Amp Maxi fuse in the engine compartment fuse block, and pulled it, the ohms dropped to 0.xxx ohms. After looking at my bronco book, apparently this circuit is for the dome light, courtesy lamps, and instrument cluster. So tomorrow I'm gonna see if i can locate the ground for that particular circuit. Also, with that fuse pulled and 0.xxx ohms reading on the fluke, I turned on the ignition switch and the ohms went up to 30 or something like that. So, i'm pretty sure there's multiple circuits involved. do you follow? if not--that's ok. I barely do.

yo,

Fuse 6 was the one that you pulled for anti-theft, Keyless entry and AC Compr. clutch, right?
Mikey has the AT Module pics!

I don't believe the location cited below in the TSB is correct... I have heard that the Anti-Theft Controller Module is located behind the LH side of the instrument panel

Our pal MIKEY can confirm location.

I intend to get to the system's Ground; CKT 570 BK/W

Wiring Diagram in a 94





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and fyi:
Anti-Theft Protection System - Recap Of TSB's - Service Tips TSB 94-25-5
B-7) - 1994 F-SERIES/BRONCO - INADVERTENT ACTIVATION OF THE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
LIGHT TRUCK
1992-94 Econoline
1993-94 Bronco1993-95 Explorer
1994 F-150-350 Series
1995 Ranger

ISSUE An Anti-Theft System TSB recap has been developed for service use. This article includes the following topics:


(A) Anti-Theft Warning - Service Tips
(B) Anti-Theft Warning - Inadvertent Alarm Activation
(C) Anti-Theft Warning - Erratic Door Lock Operation

ACTION If Anti-Theft System repair is required, refer to the following procedures and references for service details.


(A-1) - AFTERMARKET ALARM MAY PREVENT SPEED CONTROL FUNCTION

ISSUE When installing the accessory (Dealer-installed) Remote Keyless Entry Kit (or any Aftermarket system), particular attention must be taken when connecting the starter interrupt feature. Both wires which originate from the same terminal of the ignition switch must be cut and crimped into the butt connectors as shown in the installation instructions. Incorrect connection to the start circuit can cause inoperative vehicle speed control and/or no self test codes from the vehicle self test diagnostic system.

ACTION Refer to installation instructions for wire color codes, or call 1-800-FORD KEY for assistance with Ford Dealer-installed accessory Remote Keyless Entry Kit assistance.

(A-2) - TIME ALARM SOUND CHANGE

ISSUE This change was incorporated to meet with New York State legislation requirements governing the operation of alarm sirens.

ACTION 1993-94 all NAAO vehicles RKE-equipped will, as of May 1, 1993, incorporate a software change that will shorten the length of time that the alarm will stay on when the panic button is pushed once. Alarm will sound for no more than 2 minutes 45 seconds. The time duration was 3 minutes.

ISSUE Water intrusion into the Right or Left Front Courtesy Lamp Switch (refer to EVTM) of the Anti-Theft System may cause inadvertent activation of the system.

ACTION To correct this condition you should:

Remove the switch from the door.
Place a small amount of silicone sealant on the back of the connector where the wires exit the connector (enough sealant should be used to seal the connector and prevent further water intrusion).
Tape wrap the connector and about 1.5" (38mm) of the wires beyond the switch connector.
Reinstall the switch.
Verify the repair.


(B-8) - 1993-94 "LIMITED" EXPLORER - INADVERTENT ACTIVATION OF THE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM

ISSUE Vehicles built prior to 10/1/94 may have a concern with water entry into the area of the left rear quarter panel. Water can leak into the Anti-Theft Module and create inadvertent activation of the Anti-Theft Warning System, (lights flash and horn sounds) without ignition lockout.

ACTION To correct this condition, you should follow normal diagnostics as outlined in the appropriate Service Manual, Section 13-11. If the concern cannot be isolated, or diagnostics lead to replacement of the module, replace the Anti-Theft Module with part number F2VY-19A366-A for 1993 Model Year, and part number F4TZ-19A366-B for 1994 Model Year (these modules contain a water flap to resist water and prevent water intrusion).


PART NUMBER PART NAME CLASS
F2VY-19A366-A Anti-Theft Module (1993) B
F4TZ-19A366-B Anti-Theft Module (1994) C

yo,

Also,
by Richard
The sensitivity of a vehicle’s computer to impure ground signals can be downright annoying. This 60-pin Ford PCM has major grounds at pins 20, 40, 60 and 16, which is the ignition ground that is fed to the PCM through the harness. It originates at the Thick Film Ignition (TFI) module mounting screw. Pin 49 once was a ground input, but in 1991 it had become a signal return output to the O2 sensors. I disconnected the PCM and checked the ground at these pins and the power to pins 37 and 57. With my logic probe and multimeter, the grounds and powers all appeared to be fine, but a low-impedance test light actually works better for this type of test.


Having disconnected the Spark Output Connector (SPOUT), I had eliminated that circuit. While I’m sure it can kill the spark if shorted to power or ground, I realized in retrospect that the SPOUT just couldn’t cause the TFI module to fire the coil. The PIP circuit had to be the guilty path.
It doesn’t take much current on an unloaded circuit to illuminate the LED in a logic probe or fire up some decent looking numbers on a high impedance meter. The test light, on the other hand, requires some current flow to heat up the bulb, and if the light won’t burn, you can bet the computer can’t do much work with the ground or power being checked. I’ve actually been led astray on pinpoint tests by decent looking numbers on a multimeter, only to find that the circuit in question wouldn’t even burn a light bulb. Enough about that.