[broncofox]

So as soon as i got the truck it developed a small sgueak and soon began getting to a point that its unbearable, so almost every one said it must be the axel bearing, so i worked my butt of to remove and replace the axel bearings and seals, but it still sgueaks.

its not the joints cause it gets louder and faster when im in the highway and it gets slower when im going into traffic, it might be the pinion bearing? im not sure, but is there a way for me to lube it or something until i can get it replaced?

Thanks!

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Never heard a pinion bearing squeek. Usually that sound is s dried out u joint.

 

[broncofox]

Never heard a pinion bearing squeek. Usually that sound is s dried out u joint.

i dont think so cause it get louder the faster you go and it gets lower or slower when you start stopping, on a straight road with no bumps

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Sounds exactly like u-joint to me. Saying this as someone who has had same issue.
Anyways. If you remove the shaft from the pinion flange, you should be able to check both. If the pinion is bad you should be able to move the end of it around. I feel the u-joints will be self explanatory.

To your other question, about the only thing you could do is drain and re-fill the rear diff fluid. Or at least top it off. That is the lube the pinion bearing uses. If you pull cover (which you will to drain if stock cover) you will be able to see some of the pinon as well. I feel if its making that noise, you are very likely to see unusual wear on it. You likely maybe seen its condition when you did the axle shafts too though.

My other thought is maybe a shaft got re-installed weird. or the LS diff clutches are being noisy, maybe, if yours has one might be something to look into. Sometimes you can use some tubing as a stethoscope to help pinpoint the noise.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Fox,

Section 04-02: Suspension, Rear

Bronco Workshop Manual​

ADJUSTMENTS
Rear Spring Anti-Squeak Insert

1. Raise the vehicle by the frame (5005) so the rear axle (4001) hangs freely.

1. Provide clearance between the leaves of the spring to allow insertion of the rear spring anti-squeak inserts (5586). This will require either the removal of the restraining bolt on the rear spring clamp (5724), or the bending of the wrap-around clip ends, depending upon the type of clip. A prybar may be used at time of tip liner insertion to gain additional clearance.
   

1. NOTE: Do not attempt to install a rear spring anti-squeak insert between the lowest primary leaf and the short, 12.70mm (0.50-inch) thick secondary leaf found at the bottom of the leaf stack on some assemblies.
   
   
   Slide the rear spring anti-squeak insert between the leaves until the liner extends approximately 6.35mm (0.25 inch) beyond the tip of the lower leaf.

1. Position a jack, such as Rotunda Hi-Lift Jack 164-R3508 or 164-R3513 or equivalent and raise the rear axle to load the rear springs (5560) placing the leaves in contact with one another at the clip locations.

1. NOTE: On some of the rear spring anti-squeak inserts, sections of the edge used to center the rear spring anti-squeak inserts on the spring leaves may need to be trimmed off to accommodate the rear spring clamp.
   
   
   Install rear spring clamps or install the replacement service clip.

REAR SUSPENSION

Condition	Possible Source	Action
Squeak	Loose mounting bolts.	TIGHTEN.
	Loose shackle bushing.	REPLACE.
	Loose rear spring.	INSTALL rear spring anti-squeak inserts (if none currently installed).

Cardan joint squeaking ! @ Cardan joint squeaking

Chock both front tires, and jack up the FRAME (I usually use a drop draw bar in the hitch receiver) until the rear wheels are off the ground. Use a prybar to separate the tips of each leaf fore & aft, and squirt some common chassis grease in (I usually use a needle grease tip). If the leaves are very rusty, add some motor or gear oil so it runs down in the pack. That will not only kill the squeak - you'll be amazed at how much smoother the ride is!

 

[broncofox]

Sounds exactly like u-joint to me. Saying this as someone who has had same issue.
Anyways. If you remove the shaft from the pinion flange, you should be able to check both. If the pinion is bad you should be able to move the end of it around. I feel the u-joints will be self explanatory.

To your other question, about the only thing you could do is drain and re-fill the rear diff fluid. Or at least top it off. That is the lube the pinion bearing uses. If you pull cover (which you will to drain if stock cover) you will be able to see some of the pinon as well. I feel if its making that noise, you are very likely to see unusual wear on it. You likely maybe seen its condition when you did the axle shafts too though.

My other thought is maybe a shaft got re-installed weird. or the LS diff clutches are being noisy, maybe, if yours has one might be something to look into. Sometimes you can use some tubing as a stethoscope to help pinpoint the noise.

ill check the Ujoints but still, i still think its a bearing because it reacts to the forward movement not when it bounces or brakes

could be rust on the drums too? making it sgueak? not sure i need to check it out

yes im topping off the diff, but HOLY S$%^ the diff is mega hungry, the book says is around 2.4 quarts, i added like close to 3 and its still not going out of the fill hole like it says, how much is the actual amount i need to add? cause i think i need to add like 3.5 quarts

 

[broncofox]

Yo Fox,

Section 04-02: Suspension, Rear

Bronco Workshop Manual​

ADJUSTMENTS
Rear Spring Anti-Squeak Insert

1. Raise the vehicle by the frame (5005) so the rear axle (4001) hangs freely.

1. Provide clearance between the leaves of the spring to allow insertion of the rear spring anti-squeak inserts (5586). This will require either the removal of the restraining bolt on the rear spring clamp (5724), or the bending of the wrap-around clip ends, depending upon the type of clip. A prybar may be used at time of tip liner insertion to gain additional clearance.
   View attachment 171096

1. NOTE: Do not attempt to install a rear spring anti-squeak insert between the lowest primary leaf and the short, 12.70mm (0.50-inch) thick secondary leaf found at the bottom of the leaf stack on some assemblies.
   
   
   Slide the rear spring anti-squeak insert between the leaves until the liner extends approximately 6.35mm (0.25 inch) beyond the tip of the lower leaf.

1. Position a jack, such as Rotunda Hi-Lift Jack 164-R3508 or 164-R3513 or equivalent and raise the rear axle to load the rear springs (5560) placing the leaves in contact with one another at the clip locations.

1. NOTE: On some of the rear spring anti-squeak inserts, sections of the edge used to center the rear spring anti-squeak inserts on the spring leaves may need to be trimmed off to accommodate the rear spring clamp.
   
   
   Install rear spring clamps or install the replacement service clip.

REAR SUSPENSION

Condition	Possible Source	Action
Squeak	Loose mounting bolts.	TIGHTEN.
	Loose shackle bushing.	REPLACE.
	Loose rear spring.	INSTALL rear spring anti-squeak inserts (if none currently installed).

Cardan joint squeaking ! @ Cardan joint squeaking

Chock both front tires, and jack up the FRAME (I usually use a drop draw bar in the hitch receiver) until the rear wheels are off the ground. Use a prybar to separate the tips of each leaf fore & aft, and squirt some common chassis grease in (I usually use a needle grease tip). If the leaves are very rusty, add some motor or gear oil so it runs down in the pack. That will not only kill the squeak - you'll be amazed at how much smoother the ride is!

Thank you!!!! ill check if i can find these and maybe have a local 4x4 shop install them for me cause i dont have anything to lift it that high