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Discussion Starter #1
ok ive search the forums but cant come with a conclusion. i have a 95 fsb 351w. driving to work then it stalled wouldnt start for about 4 min then it started fine and it made it to work with no problems (@ operating temp when first stalled). so then i decided to drive to ford and had a buddy run for codes and found a code for the stator(didnt tell me the number it was), made sense cause i had no spark from coil when cranking under stalling condition. tried to leave and stalled, sat for 2 min ran got about 30 feet and again, happen 3 times b 4 i could leave. anyways replaced the stator and the ign module (mounted on fender) and still samething. parked it and let it idle and just died while i was in park. any ideas? only happens when its warm.help would b appretiated, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it just shuts off and doesnt start. i pulled the coil wire off while cranking and i have no spark then heard alot of clicking from the engine like relays or modules clicking
 

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Ok umm look in to tfi thick film ignition moduel is on the distributor,when they get hot the stop the spark basiclybbut they will cool back down and start working. Peaple relocate them to cooler areas like toward the radatior suports, but some peaple say this could also cause problems with timeing your best bet it lasted 15 years just replace it. That's my bet but research it if not that then the coil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mines located on the drivers fender under the test connectors. i replaced it when i did the stator in the dist. ford tech said to always do them as a pair.
 

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Well they normaly on the dizzy but if that is replaced then try the coil, also check timing, off timing may cause the tfi to heat up, but check the coil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its got the stock coil on it so its pretty old. tryin to find a good replacment one as we speak but cant decide, just know to stay away from msd coils
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok so i replaced a rusty coil and corroded dist cap and rotor but im still losing spark. im gonna buy a code reader i guess, cant seem to pull codes but i know i got them cause my check engine light flashes when it stalls. and i noticed when it ran again te rpms where fluctuating about from 500 to 800 rpms.
 

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Definately get a Ford Code Reader with book and make your life easier when pulling codes......www.fordfuelinjection.com is an excellent self help source as well..

Additional Help: www.broncolinks.com ~

Depending on what fault codes you wind up with, many times it's usually the ignition module regardless of it's location they're easy to test along with ignition coil at an Autozone etc.

I would also remove and clean your IAC = idle air control valve, located directly on the right side of the throttle body, "search" here for how to.....AND then check test your TPS = throttle position sensor, located on the bottom of the throttle body which is voltage driven for setting...."search" TPS for how to etc.

I'm not familiar with a 95 but check for a PIP/Hall Effect sensor on the distributor shaft inside, you'd need to pull the dissy out......AND I would go one extra step and trace down your IDM= ignition diagnostic monitor, located on top off the harness with a 2 wire lead around the drivers side valve cover or coil area....it looks like a big green eraser with this symbol on the side .....W..... when clean....lol lol.....there's an Ohms and Voltage test in the Haynes Manual for this.....it's just a resistor that regulates voltage to the distributor, PIP sensor and Ignition Module.....costs about $1.00 each at www.fordfuelinjecion.com....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ya im for sure im gonna get the code reader. i had a ford tech read the codes, he said something about a stator code but didnt give me the number. so i replaced the stator in the dist and the remote mounted ign control module already. still did it so i did a tune up replaced the worn dist cap and rotor and rusted coil. still same issue. gonna replace the plug and wires next. would the tps or iac cause a no spark condition?
 
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