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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,039 Posts
I went ahead and took out the alternator from my buddies 93 F150 project and put it in mine for a temporary solution. It seems to have solved the problem on the ride home (8 miles) and pulled a consistent 13.7v. Im going to order a 160a 3G (direct swap in late models) along with some Mil-spec terminals and the 2g recharge cable from Ryan's (Fireguy50) website. It should be good maintenance as well as a nice upgrade.
it's not an upgrade unless you do all cables related to the charge circuit. otherwise, IF you had a high draw situation (like a winch or something) just because you have a good 2 GA charge cable, the ground may not be adequate. So in addition to the above, you should also just go ahead and:

1) you need the buss fuse appropriate to the alternator capacity since you'll be doing away with the fusible link in the stock charge cable.
2) this means you actually need:
--cable from alternator to buss fuse
-- short cable from fuse to fender relay (this is the way I did it)
--short cable from fender relay to batt +
Then you need
--black neg. cable from batt neg to fender (recommended)
-- black neg. cable from batt neg to frame and block.

I added some of my pics, I think, to the 3g swap thread. Im not actually digging the mil-spec terminals, would be neater if I had used marine terminal with a little wingnut.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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6,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Well good news; my buddy decided to part out his F150 so I get to keep the alternator. Not a big deal because I would have liked to upgrade the a 160A alternator, but this will save me some money for the mean time.



On an update with my build, my rear bumper/tire carrier project is starting and my sliders will follow. I need to find a local to bend up some tubing for me, because I will be needing some for my sliders (durr) and a little for my tire carrier. Pictures to follow, but I got a nice piece of 2x4" .250 wall square for free, which will be the base of the bumper.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,356 Posts
Anxiously awaiting...
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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6,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
advice: dont be an architect


when's it gonna be ready?
Funny thing is I took an architect design class and got an A in it :thumbup I'll actually start working on it any day now. The past month and a half has been non stop tests and essays at school


Me :smilie_slap school
 

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Administrator
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22,831 Posts
not bad...but I would lose the outer D-rings, dont really need them if you run one in the hitch, also I would be interested in seeing how you plan on working the latch for the spare carrier, I originally thought of stopping mid bumper but with trying to keep the bumper as high as possible and the clearance issue with the tailgate I could not quite figure it out.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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6,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
not bad...but I would lose the outer D-rings, dont really need them if you run one in the hitch, also I would be interested in seeing how you plan on working the latch for the spare carrier, I originally thought of stopping mid bumper but with trying to keep the bumper as high as possible and the clearance issue with the tailgate I could not quite figure it out.
yeah I dont know how that latch will work out. I would like to stop mid-bumper because Im not a fan of having that long of a arm to pull out every time I open the tailgate. It could make it really hard in parking garages at school (downtown San Jose). I always wondered why people would put the shackles when they have a hitch. I've never needed a shackle when I got stuck, so I always figured it was for snatch blocking (or looks).
 

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Fullsize Member
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4,167 Posts
for the center latch you could have a rod that drops into the bumper in a snug sleeve. then you could pull it up and latch the carrier to it, when you need the tailgate, unlatch, let the rod drop and go. just a rough idea
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,356 Posts
IMO, I would say take a GOOD look at Tommy's old Bumper. That thing was shcweeeeeet
 

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Registered
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915 Posts
One tweak for your drawing, I think you underestimated the size of the hitch. If you look at my bumper, the hitch hangs down slightly from the base bumper, and if you mounted it so centered like that you would likely want/have to make the bumper slightly longer height wise which could reduce departure angle.

Then again, your carrier will be in TOP of the bumper so you will have more room, not quite sure.


See pic:



Click Me for closer view.

-Alex
 

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Premium Member
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485 Posts
just a thought about the mid-bumper tire carrier and latch.....allong the lines of Gilla's idea of the rod that drops down. What about a bear claw latch (typically used for doors)? You could put the post part of the latch on the bottom of the tire carrier, and the latch part could be installed (recessed) in the bumper. Nothing would protrude from the top of the bumper to interfere with the tailgate when the tire carrier is swung out of the way. You can buy kits that have the post, latch, and a mounting plate, or go cheap and rob the door hardware off of a junkyard vehicle and make up your own mounts. A rod or lever to actuate it and you're done.....plus, I think it would look pretty clean.

Just a random thought....I like the design, keep it up.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,356 Posts
Appearantly all of Tommy's pics are no good now. He had some great ones of his rear bumper.
 

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915 Posts
Thanks for the input Alex. I totally missed that on the CE Bumper. Oh yeah, Im still waiting on those measurements from a couple months back :toothless
Gah! you never told me which measurements you needed! I don't think... meh, let me know what you need I'll get them for ya!

:brownbag
 
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