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Hey all

I just passed the one year mark in my bronco. I've come to the conclusion that this beast of a truck will not be sold if I can help it, but I would be lying if I said that it hasn't been a thorn in my side at almost every opportunity given... In 2014, I...
Flooded the cab my first day out off-roading
Spent a night in a mud hole after trying to rescue an acquaintance ("friend" some would say)
Replaced a blown motor (bad mixed fluids after head gasket blew)
Repaired second blown motor
Replaced destroyed spindle/ hub
Have dealt with ongoing heat issues in second motor
Have listened to my tranny slowly dying (due to water damage from aforementioned swimming incidents)

Now, in 2015, I've had to plug a tire as a short term fix until I can afford a used pair of 35s, and have replaced my battery.

The reason that I replaced my battery is that for the last month, my truck has not been consistently starting on the first turn of the key. It started out going on the second or third, then the 3rd or 4th, and has progressed to the point that it now sometimes takes several minutes of attempts before the engine turns over.
I had suspected that my OLD battery had been the case, so last night I went and purchased a new one. I installed it, only to find that the issue persisted. I have done a little research online and am at a loss as to what the issue may be. I know that the ignition has already been replaced, and the starter is "supposedly" (see my engine swap thread to understand how much confidence I have/lack in the shop that performed it) brand new. I can hear it click when I turn the key. Other sites have suggested the fuel pump as a potential culprit, among other things.

I believe it may be an electrical issue of some sort, because I've noticed that prior to turning the key fully, my volt gauge reads at about the 8-10 range. Additionally, the other night I was preparing to head out, and the truck absolutely would not start. I believed that this was in relation to my having used the cig lighter to power a pump for my tire without running the engine, and sought a jump. Upon connecting the cables, the truck did not start on the first attempt, but after a minute or two it started for the first time without stumbling in about a month.

I am really unsure of what the problem is, but my bronco is my only means of transportation for the time being, and I cannot afford a repeat of last spring with it being primarily rendered unusable.

TL;DR
Replaced battery due to requiring multiple start attempts, issue not resolved.
Can hear a definite click (starter?) when I turn key

This is probably completely unrelated, but I do know that I am due for an oil change, and given that I installed a junk motor, is it possible that excessive gunk in the oil could cause a large amount of resistance and make it difficult for the starter to turn over? I am just trying to figure out why the problem has gotten progressively worse, if my past threads haven't revealed it already I am not the most mechanically knowledgeable person.
 

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Could be your battery cables or the relay on the inner fender. Definitely check the integrity of the cables and make sure they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could be your battery cables or the relay on the inner fender. Definitely check the integrity of the cables and make sure they are clean and tight.
With the old battery, I was getting some pretty serious corrosion at the terminals. I cleaned that off with break free (gun oil, less than ideal I know but it cuts through sludge like a hot knife through butter and I cleaned everything with a rag afterwards) and a copper brush and cleaned the terminals. Is there anywhere else I should be checking that is not clearly visible when viewing the battery?
 

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I second what others said, check cables and relay. Does it start easy with a jump?

In YOUR side??? You have an odd way of looking at a vehicle that has apparently done its best to get you home, despite your best efforts to destroy it.You should be happy if it EVER starts - first try is a dream after all the abuse you've heaped on it.What exactly does that mean? When you turn the key to START, what exactly happens, and what exactly DOESN'T happen?So do I. :thumbup Click this & read all the captions:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/69178-4
Just because you can be a dick doesn't mean you need to. Cut that shit out. Some of us love these trucks because no matter how much we beat them they get us home, they're cheap to repair and easy to fix in a parking lot or on the side of the road. Just because you like to treat your Bronco like a museum piece doesn't mean we can't run ours into the ground.:twak
 

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I second what others said, check cables and relay. Does it start easy with a jump?



Just because you can be a dick doesn't mean you need to. Cut that shit out. Some of us love these trucks because no matter how much we beat them they get us home, they're cheap to repair and easy to fix in a parking lot or on the side of the road. Just because you like to treat your Bronco like a museum piece doesn't mean we can't run ours into the ground.:twak
You can run yours into the ground but you'll sound like an idiot if you blame the truck for not performing afterward.

Most of the "problems" he posted were from abuse, not from the truck's non-performance. Leave YOUR truck in a mud hole/water overnight and then see how well the tranny, and spindles perform. Hell I got a bunch of water in MY tranny simply from rainwater making its way down the dipstick tube around the o-ring. Should I blame the truck?
 

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I second what others said, check cables and relay. Does it start easy with a jump?



Just because you can be a dick doesn't mean you need to. Cut that shit out. Some of us love these trucks because no matter how much we beat them they get us home, they're cheap to repair and easy to fix in a parking lot or on the side of the road. Just because you like to treat your Bronco like a museum piece doesn't mean we can't run ours into the ground.:twak
2x
 

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:twak Ahmm Believe this to be "Flame Free Zone" and you are ragging on a guy who has had his FSB for less than a year.
 

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Mine has had a tough time starting the past few weeks also. Cranks fast, but no fire attempt. Doesn't sound like it's sparking, or it's trying to start without fuel. Eventually it will fire after the 10th or 12th crank. When it's warmed up, fires right up. I'm almost finished with a tuneup, replacing all spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil. Did find the spark plugs gapped at various gaps, .042 +/- .010, almost like the PO just bought the plugs and stuck them in without gapping. Currently at .055. I'm sure the 20 year old coil is just fine, but replacing it anyway with OEM. Need to check grounds for sure though. I know the rule: test, don't guess. But I feel better with new ignition components anyway.

If original poster finds the issue, post again. I haven't spent the time yet checking fuel pressure or any troubleshooting like TPS voltage or the like, just doing the basics.
 

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If you are turning the key to start and all you get is a click it will not be fuel related. Since you have a new battery check all you cables including grounds to make sure they are making good contact (no corrosion). If that doesn't fix it I would look toward your starter or starter solenoid.
 

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yo D,

1996 F-Series and Bronco Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
Same as 94 and most earlier years exc. for OBD II, (in 96 only), 4WABS (93-96) ABS 87-92), Air Bag (94-96) and a few other items


Section 03-06: Starting System

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Symptom Chart — Starting System
Condition
Possible Source
Action
Starter Motor Cranks Slowly
•Loose or corroded battery cable connections.
•Undercharged battery.
•Loose or corroded starter motor connections.
•Malfunctioning starter motor.
•GO to Pinpoint Test A.

Starter Motor Does Not Crank Engine
•Loose or corroded battery cable connections.
•Undercharged battery.
•Malfunctioning starter relay.
•Faulty starter motor ground circuit.
•Malfunctioning starter motor.
•Malfunctioning ignition/push-button switch.
•GO to Pinpoint Test B.


Starter Motor Spins but Does Not Crank Engine
•Malfunctioning starter motor.
•Damaged flywheel ring gear.
•GO to Pinpoint Test C.

Unusual Starter Motor Noise During Starter Motor Overrun
•Starter motor improperly mounted.
•Malfunctioning starter motor.
•Improper starter drive engagement to flywheel.
•GO to Pinpoint Test D.
 

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If your starter is turning slowly, but you know the battery is good, likely that short cable going to the starter solenoid on the fender is fried. Been there. If you keep trying to start it like that too many times, your starter is going to fry.

If it is just clicking, then miesk5 above has great info.

My problem is fast turning starter, like "normal", but no fire. Not even trying to fire. I suspect fuel issue. Replacing the fuel filter next day or two. Easy stuff. If issues keep up, then will get down to checking fuel pressure an' stuff. Just replacing standard maintenance items first since I don't know when they were replaced last. Bronco is new-to-me about 14 months ago.
 

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Blue do you hear your fuel pump kicking on when you turn your key to the run position? You should hear your pump prime for about 2seconds and then turn back off. If the pump is priming then release the pressure in your fuel rail and turn the key to the on position and see if it builds back up. If pressure is building up than you most likely have electrical issue. These are easy checks that should take you less than five minutes. Easier than just replacing parts.
 

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I'm gathering stuff to test fuel pressure. I do get the fuel pump to come on when I turn the key. At times I get a brief 1/2 second pump coming on after the initial two seconds. That is when it finally starts. Could be the pump doesn't stay on long enough. But you'd think after 10 minutes of turning the key on and off that it would build pressure. May have a bad fuel pump since I think it isn't pressing up the fuel rail. Again, I am checking the prestart, after keyon fuel pressure and then the after start fuel pressure to eliminate the "I thinks", turn them into "I knows".
 

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yo B,
Go through this;
1994 PCED OBDI-A
[SECTION 9A

some EXCERPTS;
..."...When the ignition is switched to the ON position, it turns the EEC Power Relay on. The EEC Power Relay provides power to the EEC-IV processor and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flow is through the fuel pump relay and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch to the fuel pump. The IFS switch is a safety device used to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If the IFS switch is "tripped," it must be reset by depressing the white or red button on the top of the switch. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pump will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pump off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking.

After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump unless the engine stops, engine speed drops below 120 rpm, or the IFS switch is "tripped."..
...Fuel Pressure Specification Tables...
Truck Engines
KOEO 35—45 PSI
KOER 28—45 PSI
...
Note: Maximum fuel pressure is obtainable at WOT or the vacuum hose removed from the fuel pressure regulator.

If fuel lines/systems have been drained or evacuated, it may take up to 15 seconds to obtain the pressure specified.
...Note: Grounding the FP lead at the DLC will allow the pump to run continuously with the ignition switch on.
...FDS3 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN
•Observe the "Notes, Cautions and Warnings" to avoid fuel spillage and injury.
•Connect the Fuel Pressure Test Kit at the fuel pressure test point.
•Connect a jumper to the FP lead of the DLC.
•Key on, engine off.
•Ground the test lead using the jumper wire to run the fuel pump.
•Run the fuel pump for 30 seconds minimum.
•Remove the test lead ground and note fuel pressure on the gauge.
•Verify whether the fuel pressure remains within the specified 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded
Does fuel pressure remain within 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded?
Yes GO to FDS5.
No Go to FDS4...

...The Supply Check Valve, which is normally closed, opens when the outlet pressure from the energized pump exceeds the opposing check valve spring force. When the pump is de-energized (i.e., engine is shut off), the supply check valve closes to maintain pump prime and fuel supply line pressure..."
 
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