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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Serious '89 RESTO project....NEAR DONE PICS!!

Hope this is the right forum. I am in the beginning stages of a pretty serious resto on my '89. I wrestled with doing it vs scrap value, but logic won out.

I didnt know if there would be much interest but I figured almost everybody likes a picture show. :popc1: It might be nice to have input from some of you who have already walked the walk! I have done quite a bit of bodywork in my time but this is the first time for replacing quarters. I also plan on replacing the t/g (and guts), the hood and possibly both doors (skin). Once the quarters are on, I'm considering pulling the tub and doing the underside and possibly the frame. $$ will tell. Like most of you, I like my Bronco and you cant buy new ones anymore.

Wish me luck
:histerica

3/21/13 UPDATE: Webshots changed formats :banghead. I am in the process of re-establishing a new host and updating the old links that resulted in red x disease :red x . I have re-arranged the build album into smaller albums to ease finding stuff. It will take a while to figure out what pics were linked before.



Feel free to ask any questions or make any comments here or on the Photobucket (eff. 3/21/13) photos. If you have a question about anything I did or what you see, post here with the Webshots link or my photo number and I will try to answer. Some of the pics were for my reference and nobody else will ever need them, but they are there if so.

I used mostly NOS - OEM (FORD) parts when I could find them. I got some amazing deals on some, and many came off Ebay. A lot came from the local Ford dealer with whom I developed a nice relationship, and they rewarded me with significant discounts. I gathered parts for over two years before I even started. I had some tough times finding the parts I needed and wanted, but so far, I have found them all. I even have several new "just in case" NOS parts tucked away.

I had a great time doing this and I learned a lot. Hopefully I can pass off some of that here. If you cant find a particular pic that you think I probably have, post up here and I try to find it. Good luck on your projects!
J.R.





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3/22/13 EDIT: In case it wasn't clear, I removed this much old sheetmetal to replace with complete NOS Ford wheelhouse assemblies. So basically I will be replacing the back half of the truck's sheetmetal.

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Forward Some Money
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Discussion Starter #3
badpony93 said:
that's some serious rebuilding, are you doing anything special or just a stock truck?
Right now just planning on basically a stock truck. It looked great after the first go around in 2000, but there was a lot of rust hiding. I missed having a nice rust free appearance, so I took some time to hunt down parts to put it back stock.
J. R.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
badpony93 said:
is there any rust in the interior?
In 2000 when I bought it, it had a cracked floor so I had a welder buddy put in reinforcement. Now there is rust by the rocker panels (mostly passenger side). There are 4 rust holes where the screw holes for the scuff plate were, how convenient! There's a picture of the holes on the supermotors site.

On the driver's side there is a nice hole beside the rear seat. Fortunately the quarter assembly will fix that.

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For some tips on the rear quaters...search about the epoxy bond method...I cannot remember who it was I wanna say it was sixliter or something. That realy seemed to be the way to go if you dont want to weld alot of stuff.


Also a buddy got into a accident several years ago and it ended up rolling his z71... we had to replace the cap and bed and while it was off we POR15'd the frame and any under cab area that looked like it may rust. it was fairly straight forward and worked realy, realy well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
blksn955.o said:
For some tips on the rear quaters...search about the epoxy bond method...I cannot remember who it was I wanna say it was sixliter or something. That realy seemed to be the way to go if you dont want to weld alot of stuff.


Also a buddy got into a accident several years ago and it ended up rolling his z71... we had to replace the cap and bed and while it was off we POR15'd the frame and any under cab area that looked like it may rust. it was fairly straight forward and worked realy, realy well.
Thanks for the tips. I read the thread on the "glue". I wasnt sure that it would be strong enough to support the entire quarter panel wheelhouse assembly. These arent just the skins, the are the entire quarters. I may contact the mfg and get their thoughts. If I recall it takes a while for the glue to set and gives some time for realignment.

I'm may very well do the POR stuff. I've got a couple gallons of Rust Bullet waiting. I'm thinking of using Rhinoliner underneath. I'd like this to last and be a quiet freeway cruiser!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
THE R8RZ said:
If you going to do any media blasting, use muratic acid as metal prep afterwards. Just brush on and hose off with water to neutralize the muratic acid. Clean metal will turn gray and rusted metal will turn black. Doing this step will allow no rust to form until you ready to prime and paint. Good luck:thumbup
thanks for the tip. Do you need to sand off the gray before priming?
The last time I sand blasted with playground sand and epoxy primed soon thereafter. I noticed some rust (surface) in new places after a while. Probably from not metal prepping the bare stuff.
 

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No sanding is required after metal prepping with the muratic acid, unless it is an exterior surface. (lightly) Oh yea, don't use that stuff called Ospho from the automotive paint store, too expensive and weak.:twotu:
 

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j. r. Nice said:
I'm in Clumus Ahia too! Do you mean the 66 or the 89. I cant remember having the 89 there on a Thursday, but the 66 for sure has been there several times. Once I towed it there on my rollback. Next time you see me introduce yourself!

:beer

I can do that, im not there very often with school and work and all, but drop me a PM next time you head over there!:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Steve83 said:
The epoxy-bonded seams are MUCH stronger than factory spot-welds.
I like the idea of the epoxy, IF I remember correctly, you have a period of time to readjust before the glue sets. It also seems like it would be faster than a bunch of tack welds.

My plan is to clean up the mating surfaces, by grinding down to bare metal, and coat with Rust Bullet. Any practical experience with gluing over that?

I was thinking that I would get it all lined up and glued, and put a couple tack welds in and clamp it (or screw) the remaining areas.

This might go faster than I thought. I did a "test run" on putting the quarter panel assembly in place, I like it!

3/21/13 EDIT - From my experience, I would not recommend glue for any "structural" piece or "stressed" sheetmetal. In hindsight, I am glad I didn't try to hang these monster wheelhouse assemblies with glue. Ok for "skins" like outer quarter panel or door skins, but that where I would draw the line. I followed the instructions to the letter on another hotrod I am building and after several years, the glue broke. Fortunately, it was a "cosmetic" filler piece. It must have flexed and pulled it loose.

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Last couple part days spent cleaning off the old quarter panel and attaching pieces. Just a lot of drilling of spot welds and grinding where necessary. Basically all that's left holding the roof is the inner pillar. Not a whole lot of support without the outer panel.

The wheelhouse assemblies have been around (somewhere) for a while. Probably moved and dropped a few times, so some of the outer extremeties had some small bends that needed to be straightened before test fitting.

I am anxious to get the new panels on but I am equally excited about getting these things out of the way in the garage.

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I had to make some patches in the rear support beam that the rear of the assembly slides over.
EDIT: Crash book calls it "sill, rear cross" (probably crossmember)

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After some test fitting, away we go. I started to use my buddy's panel spotter, but it didnt seem to work as well as I expected. I drilled small holes in the new joints and mig welded them to the old. I used panel adhesive where the upper panel meets the roof as there is no access to weld it.

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Discussion Starter #17
BTW, if you look at the picture of the inside....notice the two studs sticking up from the top of the wheel well. I have no idea what those are for.
They are on both (left and right) assemblies. I figure maybe it was something Ford used on the assembly line to position them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
waltman said:
Looking good. I just don't have the patients for that sort of thing anymore. I commend you. Did you check to make sure the taigate fits ok.
Thanks! It does take me a little longer to do projects than it did in my youth!

I figure since the top and bottom both measure 67 1/4" across and the tailgate is about 66 7/8" it should be okay.

Next phase, cut off driver's side......man what a bunch of rust underneath!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Things moving slowly with the Holidays and helping friends on their projects.

The driver's side is off. Similar rust damage as the pass. side. The lower inner panel seat belt reinforcement is seriously in need of replacing. Haven't started any sheetmetal repairs due to other projects. I was able to find some of the OEM parts I needed.

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