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Discussion Starter #1
Well...I don't really know how to search for "weird noise in starter". Ever since i had my problems with my slave cylinder, when i start the bronco every so often the starter makes a loud indescribable whining noise. sometimes the noise last a short, less than a second, and sometimes it's a long 1.5 second whine. I don't know what it could be, but it seems like something is wrong with the starter.

I'm already having problems with the clutch electric switch under the pedal, it broke slightly and i haven't replaced it yet and maybe like 1 out of 10 times the truck won't start because of it, i know i need to replace the switch but i'm not sure if that is related to the starter
 

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Bendix...that is my first guess. Got good power to the starter? Have a good starter relay/solinoid? Good grounds and all around connections?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bendix? Not sure what that means
I'll have to check the ground contacts and everything, i do remember when i put the starter back on last time i made sure it was really tight, anyway i tightened it too much
 

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Sounds like the starter spins, but doesn't "kick out" against the flywheel.

Either not enough "juice" coming from the battery through cables, battery, grounds. Or just plain the starters "shot"
 

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I had a similar problem a while back. I had my Starter solenoid wired wrong. You might want to check it soon, it didnt take long for my starter to burn out before I caught it.
 

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Bendix? Not sure what that means
I'll have to check the ground contacts and everything, i do remember when i put the starter back on last time i made sure it was really tight, anyway i tightened it too much
The "Bendix" is what "kicks" the gear on the starter out to mesh with the flywheel/flex plate. If it gets worn out from just old age/used in general it will cause this "whirrring" sound your describing because the gear hasn't engaged the flywheel/flexplate. Also, not having sufficient juice to the starter can cause similar problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had a similar problem a while back. I had my Starter solenoid wired wrong. You might want to check it soon, it didnt take long for my starter to burn out before I caught it.
interesting, did you just have the wires reversed, i'd assume anyway?

I'll definitely be taking a look at the power issues though. Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i was a bit too tired to do anything this evening other than just trying to start it again. Of course no starting at all. All i got was a clicking noise from i believe the starter. Does that mean the solenoid is ok? I've read about a screwdriver trick to test the solenoid. Is that just touching both posts of the solenoid with the screwdriver to jump it? Not real sure about that, either way it's not too expensive to replace and I'll probably end up replacing the starter too, with one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUST...207559514QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160207559514
i would imagine it is the advice of everyone to replace the wiring as well?


Edit: Ok nevermind on the question about testing the solenoid, i got impatient and went out and fiddled around. I took a pair of pliers, and then removed the wire from the ignition, and jumped the two posts with the pliers. The starter cranked, so i'm assuming that's good and does that mean that the solenoid it good? I'm now thinking that it's the neutral safety switch..

i know i'm kind of talking to myself here but any advice would help
 

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Im confused now from your original post now. Is the truck turning over? or is there a "whirrr" as you described in your first post? Please clairify.

Since the switch for the clutch pedal is "broken" anyhow, that would be the first thing to replace. Then if the starting problem persists, start diagnosing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd get rid of that electric clutch switch. I don't like em, i think they're an annoyance.
why do you think they are an annoyance? what did you do just bypass it or something

at this point the truck is not turning over at all, and yes i think i will be replacing the switch today
 

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Well, in my mud tuck , the switch just siezed up in the closed position, so I lucked out.:thumbup But I do suppose that you could just cut the switch out of the circuit and replace it with a jumper wire. I'm almost positive it's not the switch thats causing your starter noise problems, but it does alow you to start, anytime, anywere, in any position, clutch or not.:toothless

It's a redneck solution.:beer
 

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Well, in my mud tuck , the switch just siezed up in the closed position, so I lucked out.:thumbup But I do suppose that you could just cut the switch out of the circuit and replace it with a jumper wire. I'm almost positive it's not the switch thats causing your starter noise problems, but it does alow you to start, anytime, anywere, in any position, clutch or not.:toothless

It's a redneck solution.:beer
That and if you have to, you can put it a low gear, 1st or reverse, and grind it to move it in case you got stalled out on a set of train tracks...

If I knew how to rewire it I would of mentioned it, but you have to look at the diagram in Haynes to figure it out most likely. I would bet that it is just a simple open/close circuit to control the truck on whether or not it will start.

Hopefully fireguy will look in here or message him. He knows a lot of wiring and how to do it! or look in your haynes maunal.

Good Luck.

KC
 

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The last time I even looked at a starter was 25 years ago, but as I recall they pretty much follow the same configuration.

The starter itself is a heavy duty motor that turns pretty fast if it gets 12 volt power. If you took it out and put it on your bench, and gave it power you would get a whirring sound of the motor turning.

As a part of the starter is an electro magnet, and a gear that slides back and forth. The gear and sliding mechanism is called the "Bendix drive" (there may be another name for it, but I assume that it was originally made or patented by "Bendix" and has become a generic name, like Kleenex is to tissue, OK... so I digress a bit :) )
At any rate, when you are trying to start the engine, and turn the key, current
"should" be supplied to the electro-magnet that will slide the gear towards the engine's flywheel, thus engaging the bedix drive. contiued current to the starter will cause it to spin the engine "cranking it over" so that it can start.

IF you get a whirring sound, your bendix drive is not sliding forward and engaging the flywheel.

IF you get a "God awful" grinding sound, then your bendix is only partially engaging the flywheel.

When you let go of the key, the bendix gear is free to return back within the starter housing. WHen the engine starts, the flywheel will be moving faster than the starter bendix gear, and will spin it backwards into the starter housing. IF you continue to hold the key to start position while the engine is running, you will hear that "God awful" grinidn sound I mentioned above because the teeth are grining.

So a couple of things...
If you don't get enough juice to the starter, the bendix may not engage,
If the bendix is sticking (not sliding) then it won't engage.
If you have burs on your flywheel, the bendix may try to engage, and you will get a grinding sound.

The switch under your clutch pedal is a safety switch that won't permit you to try to start the engine while the trans is in gear, and the clutch is out. My '64 Rambler didn't such a safety, and my sister managed to jamb the bendix and the flywheel soemhow. I think I had to take the starter out with a hammer, I don't remmeber.
If the switch is broken, I would replace it. However if you turn the key, and the starter whirs, I believe the replacement of that switch will be an incidental but not related repair.

I hope this helps.
joe
 

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i got impatient and went out and fiddled around. I took a pair of pliers, and then removed the wire from the ignition, and jumped the two posts with the pliers. The starter cranked, so i'm assuming that's good and does that mean that the solenoid it good? I'm now thinking that it's the neutral safety switch..

i know i'm kind of talking to myself here but any advice would help
If the starter is not cranking correctly with the key, but you can crank it by jumping the silenoid, then your silenoid is problably the problem. Thats what is clicking, and not supplying the juice to the starter.

Replace the silenoid and test it, they are cheap and if it does not fix the problem you can always carry it as a spair.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If the starter is not cranking correctly with the key, but you can crank it by jumping the silenoid, then your silenoid is problably the problem. Thats what is clicking, and not supplying the juice to the starter.

Replace the silenoid and test it, they are cheap and if it does not fix the problem you can always carry it as a spair.

Great, that's what i wanted to hear actually, I will eventually be replacing my switch anyway because it was broke, however i guess it's currently working. Knowing that it may only be the solenoid is good news though. I'll be replacing that this evening.

Broncojoe, that was a great explanation of the starter and the bendix i appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Put the new solenoid on, very easy only took like 5 minutes. The truck started up quickly, but i still have a bit of a grinding noise from the starter so i'm sure i'll need to swap that or atleast take a look at it quickly Thanks everyone
 

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Much earlier in the post you said that you jumped the solenoid and it cranked. When you did that, did you jump from the big cable to the little cable, or from one big cable to the other?
I am just trying to get a clearer understanding of how to trouble shoot this without a voltmeter.
Thanks
joe
 

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Much earlier in the post you said that you jumped the solenoid and it cranked. When you did that, did you jump from the big cable to the little cable, or from one big cable to the other?
I am just trying to get a clearer understanding of how to trouble shoot this without a voltmeter.
Thanks
joe
Well, from what I understand about his post is that he just crossed the two larger poles on the relay.

The other way is to jump the "s" (small one) terminal to the POS terminal on the battery (Pretty sure pos anyway, wait for someone to chime in) and if it cranks, its NOT the relay. Then you have another problem
 
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