Starter Problems?

yo A

re;
So Finally, after trying to charge the battery, with no luck and replacing the solenoid, I was able to pop start it once again. So i drove it back then shut it off, and tried it again and nothing. No solenoid click or anything. So i cleaned up the wires and then redid some connections, and I was at least consistently getting clicking from the solenoi
Is the battery fully charged now and tested?
Meter at batty + & - engine Off & w/nothin on = 12.6v

Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..."
Source: by Gordon
Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."
Source: by Gordon

just solenoid clicking is this the relay on pass. side inner fender?

Here is a long Recall for 92 engines, but maybe a prev owner or shop swapped in this solenoid (I saw a shop w/a bunch of obsolete O2 sensors last year; owner said he got thenm for a "bargain"..all were damaged.

Also, the recall is ambiguous in it's production years range for the starters & solenoids...


FSA 93B35 Starter Solenoid Inspection & Possible Replacement

1992 / 1993 F-Series Trucks (equipped with 4.9, 5.8, or 7.5L engines) & Certain 1992 Broncos (4.9L engine) All Equipped with Manual Transmissions - Starter Solenoid Inspection & Possible Replacement

Note that this is a safety recall, and any included vehicle will be repaired free, no matter how old it is, how long the owner waits to present it for repair, or how many times it has been sold.

Ford Motor Company is providing a no-charge Service Program to owners of certain 1992 Broncos and 1992 and 1993 F-Series Trucks to inspect the starter assembly, and, if necessary, replace the starter solenoid.

Reason For This Program
The starter solenoid may continue to keep the starter engaged after the ignition key is returned from the "start" position. This may result in overheating of the starter as it continues to run with the engine. The starter typically will not crank on subsequent attempts, causing a "No-Start" condition.

No Charge Service
At no charge to you, your dealer will inspect the starter and, if necessary, replace the starter solenoid. This program is available through 36 month / 36,000 mile Bumper-to-Bumper warranty, or through December 31, 1994, whichever provides greater coverage.

How Long Will It Take?
The time needed for this service is one (1) hour. However, due to service scheduling times, your dealer may need your truck for one full working day. Call your dealer and ask for a service date and if parts are in stock. If your dealer does not have the parts in stock, they can be ordered before scheduling your service date. Parts would be expected to arrive within a week. When you bring your truck in, give the dealer this letter. If you misplace this letter, your dealer will still do the work, free of charge.

Refunds
If you paid to have this service done before the date of this letter, Ford is offering a full refund. For the refund, please show your paid work-order to your Ford dealer.

Affected Vehicles: 1992-93 F-Series / Bronco Trucks

Parts Purge
F2TZ-11002-A Starters built prior to 12/16/92 MOTORCRAFT (SA 793)
F2TZ-11002-C Starters built prior to 12/16/92 MOTORCRAFT (SA 795)
E9OZ-11390-B Solenoids MOTORCRAFT (SW 2207)

If claim is processed electronically via DOES II, use return code "GB" otherwise complete a separate FPS-340 claims for these parts. Indicate reason "J" on claims. In remarks section write "returned per Recall 93B35". Returns must be received within thirty (30) days from the date of this recall. Returns are restricted to the subject parts. Parts returned must have been purchased from FCSD in accordance with Policy and Procedure Bulletin 4000. Credit for parts and prepaid freight costs will be issued.

Technical Instructions

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE, MAKE SURE THE RED SOLENOID SAFETY CAP IN INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REINSTALLED AFTER SERVICE.

Inspection
Starter assemblies with a production date equal to or less than 2M15 (December 15, 1992) are affected by this program. The red starter assembly label will have the date the assembly was made as illustrated below:

Motorcraft
11000 12V USA
F2TUAA or F2TUCA 2M15B (Build Date)

2 = calendar year, i.e. 1992, 3 = 1993
M = month (December), L = November, A = January
15 = day
B = shift on which starter was assembled

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE. MAKE SURE THE RED SOLENOID SAFETY CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMNAL AND IS REINSTALLED AFTER SERVICE.

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the starter cable and push-on connector from the starter solenoid.
CAUTION: WHEN DISCONNECTING HARDSHELL CONNECTOR AT S-TERMINAL, GRASP THE PLASTIC SHELL AND PULL OFF. DO NOT PULL ON WIRE. BE CAREFUL TO PULL STRAIGHT OFF TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE CONNECTION AND S-TERMINAL. IF ANY PART OF THE CONNECTION IS DAMAGED, REPLACE THE DAMAGED COMPONENTS.
4. NOTE: The 5.8L engine starter has a heat shield. Carefully SLIDE the heat shield away from the mounting bolts before removing the starter assembly.
5. Remove upper and lower bolts, and remove starter assembly from engine.
6. Remove starter solenoid from starter assembly.

Installation

1. Position solenoid to housing, ensuring that the solenoid plunger is attached through the drive lever. Bottom solenoid terminal (M) should have a metal strip attached to it. Tighten solenoid bolts to 5-10 N-m (45-89 in-lb).
2. Attach motor connector to solenoid (bottom terminal). Tighten nut to 9-14 N-m (80-124 in-lb).
3. Position starter motor to engine and install upper and lower bolts finger-tight.
4. Tighten upper and lower bolts to 20-27 N-m (15-20 ft-lb).
5. Be sure that solenoid heat shield (5.8L engine) is properly positioned over solenoid. Connect starter solenoid connector. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a noticeable click or detent.
6. Install starter cable nut to starter terminal. Tighten to 9-14 N-m (80-124 in-lb).
7. Replace solenoid safety cap.
8. Lower vehicle to floor and connect battery negative cable.

Labor
Inspect Starter Only 0.3 Hrs.
Inspect and replace starter solenoid 0.6 Hrs.

F3PZ-11390-A Starter Solenoid Dealer Price $12.31


by Ford via Steve83

90broncoI6 said:

I have a 1990 inline 6 bronco 4.9 my truck didnt wanna start she would crank
only for a sec as if the battery was dead but it was not. i changed the starter
as i had it tested and it failed i changed the solenoid as well cranked it up she
started right up then boggle she died i cranked it up again and reved it a lil and
smoke came up didnt seem to be coming from engine but the front as i think
either the alternator or ac compressor ac compressor is bad would that cause
the smoke it never smoked before.

Click to expand...

Sometimes when working on stuff oil and grease gets on the manifold and/or
exhaust pipe so then they smoke a little at first. Could that be it?

Everything else acting right?

Did the starter-drive stay engaged after you "let the key relax" back to "run"?

The voltage gauge reading on the "M" (or where ever it used to) after it gets
running?

Electrical problems are best traced out with a meter while they are failing.
Otherwise you're just guessing and "gambling" by swapping parts.
Got access to a meter or better yet, a friend with a meter?

Testing/troubleshooting the starting and charging systems using an analog
volt meter is easy as anything. I've typed out how to do that in at lest three
"starting trouble" threads here on FSB. Using an analog volt meter the trick
is to test a good working system so you know how the needle should act
while reading the three voltages directly from the battery's terminals.

1 engine off battery voltage = ~12v
2 about where the voltage reading goes down to while cranking = >~10v
3 what voltage it goes up to after it's running = ~13v

Alvin in AZ