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Starter removal and installation for those who never done it

13895 Views 17 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  porschpow
Tell you what, its simple.
This is for those who don't have an idea what to do, or have never done it before.

List of tools

Wire Stripper
9/16th socket 3/8 drive
1/2" socket 3/8 drive, but 1/4 can be used for the starter nuts.

First of all diconnect negative cable on battery

Then remove the plastic protective cover on the starter

EDIT-Not Negative cable as below, but neutral safety switch connection.

It will be a slip connection.

Disconnect negative, the neutral safety switch terminal on the starter selinoid is a flat terminal. (Slip Connector)

Remove the nut which holds the positive on.

There will be two bolts holding it on, the upper bolt will have a 1/2" head and the lower bolt will have a 9/16" head.

Loosen both bolts evenly and remove starter.

If you dont have a magnetic pan, put the starter bolts back in temporary so you dont lose them, 1/2 is upper, and 9/16th is lower.

Get starter if you dont have it, make sure you don't forget the old starter as they will give you $40-50 for the core.

If you go to NAPA, I would recommend the starter with the lifetime warranty, a three year is also offered, If you plan on keeping it for a long time, go lifetime.

Its around $120 after core exchange.

Remove the bolts and line up starter with the holes, then 1/2 on top, and 9/16th on bottom. Tighten bolts.

The neutral safety switch connection of the new starter will be different, it has a slip connection, so you splice the safety switch cable, and crimp it with the exposed end of the wire in the butt connector.

Then reinstall the postive connection on the new starter.

If it doesn't start then you got a bad case of the Gremlins.

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1 - 18 of 18 Posts
New starter connection? This is new to me. Why is it different then what you pulled off the truck? Sounds like you got the wrong starter?
This is dependant on the year of the truck. My 92's is different than my 88s which is simply bolt in.

Adrianspeeder
Well ya, if you look at it that way. But you should be buying the correct starter for your truck to start with. If it's a 92 you wouldn't be buying an 88 starter for it.
i don't remember starters costing that much:wowcb:
my 86 was a complete bolt on. the bolts were both the same size, starter cable was held on by a bolt on the new and old one. No cover over anything.

But yeah, its an easy job on any of them, just use lots of extensions on an 80-86 351w to get to the bolts
Bronco85 said:
New starter connection? This is new to me. Why is it different then what you pulled off the truck? Sounds like you got the wrong starter?
The negative connection was the only thing different.
It was a good thing because the rubber sleeve on the negative wire was all hardened, and brittle.
Cut it off and spliced it into the butt connector.

It was actually a rebuilt starter with lifetime.
The frontal metal casing has the Ford logo on it.
As I always do I double check its for a 1996.
I've done this a few times and it is pretty easy. Unless you have a stuck bolt the most time consuming thing is probably the drive to get the part.

I just wanted to check something though since I'm thinking about replacing the wires to the starter as the insulation around mine is also cracked, and peeling off significantly allowing the wires to corrode.

On my 1995 (an other years using the same kind of starter) there isn't a negative wire. There is a thicker guage positive wire that runs from the battery to the starter. Then the thinner guage wire (which I have seen with either a rectangular 'slip on connector' or a small 90* ring terminal with a bolt) is also a positive wire that comes from the starter relay under the hood. The starter itself is grounded by it's connection to the engine block so there is no negative cable. Is this accurate?
MikeW said:
The negative connection was the only thing different.
It was a good thing because the rubber sleeve on the negative wire was all hardened, and brittle.
Cut it off and spliced it into the butt connector.

It was actually a rebuilt starter with lifetime.
The frontal metal casing has the Ford logo on it.
As I always do I double check its for a 1996.
It's not a "negative connection". It's the trigger wire (+12v) from the neutral safety switch to signal the starter solenoid to engage.

BBJeff- it costs more for the '93+ starters because they're gear reduction starters (PMGR).
magnumpi said:
my 86 was a complete bolt on. the bolts were both the same size, starter cable was held on by a bolt on the new and old one. No cover over anything.

But yeah, its an easy job on any of them, just use lots of extensions on an 80-86 351w to get to the bolts
The same with my 87 302. 9/16" hold the starter to the bell housing and 3/8" holdes the cable to the starter.

15 minute swap, 25 if the exhaust is still hot and you keep burning yourself (cussin' takes time:toothless )
Wow I remember my starter costing roughly $90 without the core deposit. :)

On my 87 it's a straight bolt up, it take roughly 15 minutes to swap it out, doing in on the roadside is soooo omuch fun!! :)
i changed 2 on my 88 in a down pour in the middle of the Kmart parking lot to find out it was my neutral safety switch
my 85 was simple just remove the neg ground on battery then take off two bolts two different sizes of course then the hot wire, dont go to carquest in a little town 70.00 for a year waranty :( and dont have a clue where the nuertual safety switch is lol
SrATEX said:
i changed 2 on my 88 in a down pour in the middle of the Kmart parking lot to find out it was my neutral safety switch
hahahah eww that sucks!!!

That's is what I thought it was at first, I had to change mine on the Loon Lake access road on the way to the Con.

Thank God the Ford made that easy change!!!
I carry a spare starter in my 1991 and my wife has a spare in her 1982. We have had her truck like 6 years - shes been through 3 or 4 starters and I had hime less than a year before I replaced my starter. It just a good thing to carry a spare.

Ritch
If you dont have a magnetic pan, put the starter bolts back in temporary so you dont lose them, 1/2 is upper, and 9/16th is lower.[/qupte]
man, your in trouble if you cant remember in an hour where 2 bolts and one nut goes!!!
i just usually take crap apart and throw it on the ground in a pile toghther, or on my cart. you can usually tell where stuff goes if you put it back toghtheroin the same day or two. now on the other hand, i may have trouble installign the one 4wd chevy trans i took out of the truck 2 months ago, with all the parts laying in a cardboard box in the truck bed. woops
Does a 1993 bronco have a neutral safety switch. I am asking because it wont start...just clicks Is there a picture or diagram of the correct way to install a starter??
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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