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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've purchased a Blue Top gearbox and Borgeson steering shaft in hopes of removing the play in my steering and stabilizing the alignment. My question is how much of a DIY is this for a semi-technical wannabe? I've watched several YouTube vids and it doesn't look all that complicated. My biggest concern is that Blue Top requires a steering fluid flush, or else the warranty is VOID. How hard is that and what's the best process? I imagine my mechanic would charge me a couple of hours labor to do the job (@ $225) and I would like to use that money elsewhere. But since this involves one of the big 3 (Go, Steer, Stop) I also want to make sure it's done correctly.

What say ye FSB? DIY or NO?
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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As someone who isn't afraid to have someone else do the job for him, I would do this one yourself. lol

Everything is pretty straightforward. Unbolt the old box, bolt on the new one. Removing the pitman arm is probably the only item that may be a snag for you on that.

As far as flushing things, when I did mine, I stuck the line going into my power steering pump from the old gearbox into a quart of the fluid I was going to run and then stuck the line that was going to go into the gearbox into an empty jug to catch the fluid.

Then I disconnected my coil and cranked the engine a bit, checking on my quart of fresh fluid so I didn't run the line dry, then repeated until all the fluid coming out the line looked good.

Someone else will have to tell you about the borgeson shaft. I didn't use a borgeson, but I still had to cut the one I used and it was pretty simple.
 

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Did the Borgeson. Made the mistake of getting some chips between the two tubes so that was fun. But that’s cause I’m an idiot.

The Borgeson instructions recommended spot-facing the gearbox input shaft for the set screw. That seems like a disaster waiting to happen (especially if the gearbox is already installed) so I opted to put the set screw in the reduced diameter area between the two sets of splines.

I think you can do it - just measure twice and cut once! Or, cut some, install, cut some more. Hard to add material back!

I’ve never had the splines of the steering shaft and gearbox go on easy, so be prepared for a little cussing. Get some flare nut wrenches if you don’t have some for the steering lines.

Make sure the box is on center and wheel on center when you couple everything up. I’d buy a new Pitman arm and save yourself the headache of trying to pull the old one off.
 

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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’d buy a new Pitman arm and save yourself the headache of trying to pull the old one off.
I'll have to think about that one. It's another $60 or so for a decent one and mine appears to be in good shape. I'm hoping that since it has been off in the last 2 years (I think) to replace the ball joints and tie rod ends it'll come off fairly easily.
 

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I'll have to think about that one. It's another $60 or so for a decent one and mine appears to be in good shape. I'm hoping that since it has been off in the last 2 years (I think) to replace the ball joints and tie rod ends it'll come off fairly easily.
When I had my steering box changed, I took my mechanic an extra steering box with the pitman arm on it. Figured he could use that one for a core and I'd keep mine to send off for a proper rebuild. He couldn't get the extra one off or the one off my bronco. He ended up having to buy a new one. You are right they are expensive for what they are.

It took a few days of soaking and some light hammering but it eventually came right off. If yours has been off in the past couple years you should be able to get it off with a good puller.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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I paid someone to do my borgeson and gear box swap... Not necessarily cause we couldn't do it but because I prefer that kinda pricey install to be guaranteed to be right (my mechanic guarantees his work for a year after install)... Or if something's damaged in the process it's on him... He's 80$ an hour, yeah I'd rather put that on something else for the rig but I'm also not that brave or confident in our ability with looking at damn near a grand in parts. That could be a pricy screw up...
 

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I'll have to think about that one. It's another $60 or so for a decent one and mine appears to be in good shape. I'm hoping that since it has been off in the last 2 years (I think) to replace the ball joints and tie rod ends it'll come off fairly easily.
I fought with my pitman arm for three days… finally ended up spending the $60.00 bucks on a new one… I broke two pullers trying to get the darn thing to come loose… then as I was throwing the old gear box into the shipping box to return to RedHead for my core refund the pitman arm fell right off… IDK…
 
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