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Check the alignment on all your belts,all your pulley for same width and that the belts fit flush. Double check the work you had paid to get done. Check the track bar bushing. The C-bushing arond the axle. Mine drove PERFECT and the bushing on the driver side was gone and the one on the passenger side was half gone. Check the brace on the rear of your track bar .Where it goes to the frame.Make sure all the rivets( or bolts if the brace has been replaced) are all in and check the holes to make sure they are round--not ob-long.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ordered the WH Sag pump kit. $44 shipping - it better be delivered in a classic bronco mail truck for that much!
PS box is scrubbed reasonably clean. I skipped painting it, sue to other projects and f'n RAIN!
So the bill was around $330 for the pump and shipping. It took me a couple of minutes to click the "YES, I'll gladly pay for this ridiculous shipping" button... I scavenged the site for some other odds and ends that I needed, but somehow didn't feel swayed to paying those prices either so whatevs.
Squirted the box and pump in the truck with PB blaster in prep.
… waiting...
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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I think you have the main parts addressed..what made the biggest difference for me was the addition of the red head steering box and the borgeson steering shaft..took almost all of the slop out..
Do u have a thread on that install?
 

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Do u have a thread on that install?
which install, the redhead or the borgeson??

No pics of the redhead install since it's all pretty straightforward and covered in a gazillion threads.I do have a some for the borgeson on my supermotors site..
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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which install, the redhead or the borgeson??

No pics of the redhead install since it's all pretty straightforward and covered in a gazillion threads.I do have a some for the borgeson on my supermotors site..
Care to share the borgeson info? I'm sure i can find the redhead stuff in a search. I've seen it all over the forum so... 👍
 

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Soak the pitman arm from the top with some wd 40 for a day or so then hit the pitman arm up by the steering box where the splines are and it should pop off
 

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Care to share the borgeson info? I'm sure i can find the redhead stuff in a search. I've seen it all over the forum so... 👍
Here's the link to pics from the borgeson install..just realized it's not as thorough as I thought is was...regardless, I can tell you the process was relatively easy..Couple of tips:

  • Make sure your wheels are pointed straight before removing the old shaft
  • If you need to cut the borgeson shaft (which I did), make sure to leave yourself a little extra length, you can always go back and trim down if it's too long..you have some the closer it is to the ideal length, the easier it is to get it seated back on the steering box.
  • make sure all those lock nuts are good and tight and go back and check periodically you don't want one of those backing out.
Trying to dig up the old thread where I did my install, I'm sure it's here somewhere and I may have even taken measurements, although they might be different for your year.

 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Here's the link to pics from the borgeson install..just realized it's not as thorough as I thought is was...regardless, I can tell you the process was relatively easy..Couple of tips:

  • Make sure your wheels are pointed straight before removing the old shaft
  • If you need to cut the borgeson shaft (which I did), make sure to leave yourself a little extra length, you can always go back and trim down if it's too long..you have some the closer it is to the ideal length, the easier it is to get it seated back on the steering box.
  • make sure all those lock nuts are good and tight and go back and check periodically you don't want one of those backing out.
Trying to dig up the old thread where I did my install, I'm sure it's here somewhere and I may have even taken measurements, although they might be different for your year.

U rock @jermil01 Thank you ❤ would u suggest maybe using some locktight on those nuts?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Can the PS pump and PS Box be removed as one unit without draining/bleeding the PS fluid?
The reason I'm asking is I'm in a garage with tight spaces and its frigging cold outside. I'm planning on joining the replacement steering box attached to the rag joint. The more I look and think about it the more I don't see why you can't remove all the old stuff as one unit, then drop the new stuff in, check over everything, pull it out into the driveway and finish up the rest of the bleed process. I have hose and easier cleanup outside.

A 20% off HF breaker bar and a few days soaking in pb blaster made quick work of the last stuck bold on the PS box. All bolts are loose now best I can tell - the only thing left, I think, is where the end of the pittman arm attaches to the steering linkage.

On the replacement PS box, I'm going to be breaking the line bolts next and get that cleaned up a little more. I got some simple green to clean up around where it is/was leaking and just clean the engine bay a little more while I'm in there. The engine bay on my clean daily commuter is making me want to take better care of this mall boy mud truk! Stay tuned... FOLKS!
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Wellllll. If your Bronco's steering setup is exactly the same as my 78, then I suppose you could potentially remove it all in one, unseparated unit. You would have to disconnect the box from the rag joint or disconnect the rag joint from the lower steering shaft. Then you could unbolt the steering pump from the bracket or remove it with the bracket attached to the pump by unbolting the bracket from the block/water pump. Then lastly you'd have to make sure your cooler line is unbolted from the front cross member.

You'd probably have to remove the inner fender or cut it out though as I had just enough room to finagle the steering box itself through the little hole that's already cut out in the inner fender for it and trying to maneuver all those awkwardly shaped parts through it would be a bitch. That's why I say you could potentially do it keeping it all intact and not having to bleed it, if that's what you're trying to do. I say go for it, worst that could happen is that you have to separate the pieces if it doesn't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yep, I have the box separated from the rag joint, or bolts broke loose really. When you say "make sure your cooler line is unbolted from the front cross member", are you talking about radiator coolant or PS coolant or Trans cooant or AC coolant? I only have one coolant, for the engine! NO AC,Auto Trans or anything.

The bracket for the WH PS pump kit has some flaws. there was a bit of welding that didn't get covered, so I had to wire brush, file, scrape, and spray and pray. Its on the inside of the bracket, won't be seen so who cares. Will be a little surprise for the next owner I guess. I would have painted it sparkley blue but I didn't want to go through the whole process so its just kinda matching silver.
Stuck it in the toaster over I used to dry brass with for about an hour at 150 deg. Should be ready for install tonight.

I broke the bolts holding the lines on to the replacement PS box, they were surprisingly easy but the line wrenches are some of the best $23 I ever bought in tools. I remember me and my dad rounding off so many bolts using a crescent wrench on hose bolts - no more!

Got the lower bolt off the pittman arm too. Ready to drop.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Yep, I have the box separated from the rag joint, or bolts broke loose really. When you say "make sure your cooler line is unbolted from the front cross member", are you talking about radiator coolant or PS coolant or Trans cooant or AC coolant? I only have one coolant, for the engine! NO AC,Auto Trans or anything.
The power steering cooler. It's the metal part of the return line and should have a small bolt holding it onto the front cross member. At the end of the metal return line there should be a rubber hose clamped to it that clamps onto the return of the pump.

It's dirty and oily in this pic, but you can see it right below the bottom of the radiator. It's just a giant loop and it'll be very obvious that it's still attached to the cross member if you try to remove everything together in one piece.


 

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Discussion Starter #38
WH Box! Please SMASH the like button on my unboxing video located <no-freaking-where>!
The bracket and kit. I want yalls opinion on the rust. I fixed it for them. No biggie.
Got down to 200# yesterday and promptly destroyed it with the KK Nitrous bottle and wrenching fuel!
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
More stuff that did actually happen...Cameo of the prybar/old Mtb racing frame.

Last pic is where I am currently stopped. Why wont this come off? I think I need a bigger hammer... The last pic, yeah, it aint doin it. I even bolted the PS box back to the frame and whacked it and still no go. Tried prying downward on it with a 2x4 (can see in the pics) and still no go. Cotter pin is out, tried putting the castle nut on backwards and tapping and still no. Am I missing something or have I become an old crusty dried up wussy? If that's it and I just need to nut up, say so. If there is another trick say so too. This thing was off not too long ago (not by me).

I can't wait to set a pawn shop sledge on my desk at work after lunch.
 

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