hows the caliper to rim clearance and are you running a 16" wheel?
Heres what the clearance looks like. I ended up with about 1/8'' all around. Yes, Im running a 16'' rim.hows the caliper to rim clearance and are you running a 16" wheel?
They're actually copper/nickle lines. I purchased them from the same place that made the rubber flex ones. They are MUCH easier to work with than steel lines...I was able to do all the the bending by hand instead of having to use a tubing bender. Its still plenty strong though, as I accidentally stepped on them a couple times in the garage without damaging them.how come the brake lines look like copper?
Here is what I paid for each individual part...can you break down the prices. I know the brackets are 50 bucks, the rotors should be like 90 per IIRC, and I thought the loaded calipers were like 15 to 20 bucks per.
Good question on the parking brake. Also, did you have to put in a proportioning valve? I always thought doing a rear rotor swap was supposed to be fairly involved, but this makes it look awfully simple.Kicking a dead horse with this a bit, but with that setup what did you do about the parking brake? I didn't see one on there.
There is no E-brake. I opted for a driveline brake, since I am also swapping in an NP 205 Tcase. If you need an Ebrake (and Im sure most do) you can use the calipers off of a late 70s Cadillac. Keep in mind, it will be a couple hundred more (they are expensive) and the caddy calipers have a reputation of being finicky, and a basic pain in the ass. You could also run line locks, but I personally dont have any experience with those.Is the e brake an inspection item in most states? If so, what's your work around for it? Or is your truck non street driven?