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Discussion Starter #1
1. Is there any particular year that I should be looking for, or are they all the same and just pick one? I know 99+? have metric bolt patterns and discs I believe.

2. How much did you pay for yours. Just trying to get a ballpark figure of what I should expect when I start calling around.

What brings this on is when I swapped rear ends in the truck I pulled the mini out and found that small chunks were missing out of the corners of the side pieces of the mini. :eek: That and it started eating up my c-clips. So I figured if I need/decide to put it back in, it'll give me a good reason to upgrade to a Sterling when it self-destructs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Eh, Idk. Haven't really thought about it for one. Two I'd just like to keep it all Ford. Stupid reason I know, but I'm just one of those kind of people.....
 

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my precioussssssss
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I would go with the cheaper stronger 14 bolt. You don't need to wory about that tps sensor (or whatever it's called) anyways.
 

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Project Lazarus said:
Eh, Idk. Haven't really thought about it for one. Two I'd just like to keep it all Ford. Stupid reason I know, but I'm just one of those kind of people.....
yes, stupid reason

92 or newer is bnetter due to a diferent wheel seal design, but any old axle can be upgraded to this style by ford with a kit
$33 for a sterling here
 

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EvilBronc said:
I would go with the cheaper stronger 14 bolt. You don't need to wory about that tps sensor (or whatever it's called) anyways.
:stupid

I paid about $300 for my Sterling
 

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You don't want to know what I paid for mine....

But it's broken again, and laying on the floor in the garage. That alone should tell you plenty.

14 bolts are $100-200 pretty easily. Another $325 for a Detroit, about $200 for disc brakes, and you have yourself a hell of an axle for not a lot of money.
 
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You can put disc brakes on a sterling, not for $200, but it's not that hard to do.

My sterling is a '95, but I can't imagine tearing it up, even though guys seem to do it all the time.
 

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Just got a 14 bolt and 10.25 the other day. The 14 was for my friend and it was $100 out of an 85 Burban. The 10.25 was $160 out of a 2wd F350 92-97. The 14 bolt was alot heavier. And it looked like it would be a pain in the ass to simply change the rear brakes. You would have to pull shaft, then use some special hub tool to get everything off.

I understand keeping it Ford. I agree that the 14 bolt might be stronger, but I think the difference is neglible.

I also just went outside and checked. The spring pads of the 14 are 2.5inches wide. The 10.25 is 3 inches. The length from spring pad to spring pad on teh 14 was 43 inches. The 10.25 was 45 inches.

Buy a 10.25 and bolt it in one afternoon.
 

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Master Bater
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I dont konow if the 14 bolt is stornger, really. the sterlings have 1.5" shafts and 35 spline IIRC.
I think it is bigger than a 14bolt tho, especially if you shave the 14. But the comparison between my buddies and mine, I think the brakes are easier to get to on the sterling without removing the hub.

the hub seal fix is in the tech sction, and super easy.

I paid 50 bucks for my sterling at half off PNP, but the detroit and gears were a lot more than a 14bolt.


Moral, with everything said and done, if I didnt have to have a sterling, i would be wearing a 14 bolt in an instant.
 

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Do the easy cheap disc conversion on the 14 and the argument about the 14 brakes being harder to service goes out the window.

The Sterlings' weak point is the pinion bearings, and the 14 does have a better supported pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Swamp Donkey said:
Just got a 14 bolt and 10.25 the other day. The 14 was for my friend and it was $100 out of an 85 Burban. The 10.25 was $160 out of a 2wd F350 92-97. The 14 bolt was alot heavier. And it looked like it would be a pain in the ass to simply change the rear brakes. You would have to pull shaft, then use some special hub tool to get everything off.

I understand keeping it Ford. I agree that the 14 bolt might be stronger, but I think the difference is neglible.

I also just went outside and checked. The spring pads of the 14 are 2.5inches wide. The 10.25 is 3 inches. The length from spring pad to spring pad on teh 14 was 43 inches. The 10.25 was 45 inches.

Buy a 10.25 and bolt it in one afternoon.
That was one of the main reasons for looking at the Sterlings also. Bolt in and go. I need that seeing that as the truck I'm driving now will be going to my sister as soon as I finish my 4wd swap, so I'd need something that could be swapped over in a Saturday. The spring pads from the 14b would be nice though as I still have my 2.5" 2wd springs. Also, what about the offset of a 14b and Sterling? I noticed when I pulled the axle shafts out of the '87 8.8 one was longer than the other....offset. Would I have to worry about this with either or?
 

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ate lug
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Traveler said:
You can put disc brakes on a sterling, not for $200, but it's not that hard to do.
There is a kit out there, then? Or atleast a write-up?
A buddy of mine has a '90 f250 he wants to do rear discs on, but we cant find a kit for it.
 

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i thought about a 14bolt, but i decided to go with a sterling. just easyer. i know the parts are cheaper for the 14bolt, but by the time i get it to the welder to change the spring pads and shock mounts, it would cost as much as the 10.25 in the long run. i dont have a welder. if i did, i'd probably go with the 14bolt. but its just easyer to go with the 10.25 for me right now.
just something to think about.
 

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Project Lazarus said:
I need that seeing that as the truck I'm driving now will be going to my sister as soon as I finish my 4wd swap, so I'd need something that could be swapped over in a Saturday. The spring pads from the 14b would be nice though as I still have my 2.5" 2wd springs.
The 14 pinion is pretty close to center. I've never bothered to measure, but it's straight according to the driveshaft.

The stock perches don't matter. Any of them, really. If you're doing it *right* IMHO that means cutting off whatever perches are there and rotating them to get rid of the pinion shims.

It seriously can be done in two hours. Most of the wait is pulling the axle back out from under the truck to finish weld and paint.
 

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reptillikus said:
There is a kit out there, then? Or atleast a write-up?
A buddy of mine has a '90 f250 he wants to do rear discs on, but we cant find a kit for it.
No kit, but you use oddball parts just like everybody else. I think the one that worked best for the 10.25 were some Dodge rotors... they were $70/ea, tho.
 

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Traveler said:
You can put disc brakes on a sterling, not for $200, but it's not that hard to do.

My sterling is a '95, but I can't imagine tearing it up, even though guys seem to do it all the time.
tell us what pats did you use for your disck brake conversion??
saw your web page but I need more information:)
 

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i just swapped a 14 bolt in my '90 bronco recently. it was pretty easy. got brand new 3" spring perches from JBG and stole some old 9" shock mounts. used 90's f-350 upper spring plates.
i'm really happy with it so far- even tho it is chevy parts.

gear set-up is a breaze in a 14 bolt, too. because of the removeable pinion support. that is a big bonus.
 
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