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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, my motor has been ticking for awhile, hardly noticable at idle, When I'm driving, it's only noticable when cruising at low rpm, but its louder. I've tracked it down to Cylinder 7 using my stethescope, I'm just trying to figure out what it is now. I'm thinking it might be a noisy fuel injector or a stuck lifter. I unplug the injector and I don't hear the noise, but the truck is running like such crap it's hard to tell (runs great with all 8 hooked up of course). I unplug the spark plug and the noise gets louder and more prominent. After the first of the year I'll be pulling my injectors to clean them and replace a broke pintle cap, so If it is a noisy injector, then would be the time to change it. Also if it's a noisy lifter, that would be the time to tackle that problem too.

Anyone have any ideas?

Exhaust leaks have all but been ruled out, when I put the stethescope on the lower intake, right next to the injector I can hear "tink, tink, tink, tink"

Anyone have any ideas?
:beer
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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probably just an injector. all the lifters i've heard are prominent "tick" or "tack", or "clack". if that makes any sense.

also, you should release the midget from under the truck, that might be the sound right there. they get pissed if you keep them cooped up for too long.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seriously? Those little guys are so high maintenance, I already had to get rid of the clutch fan because his "lady" friend got caught up in it. I told him to put a tie on the door handle or grille to warn me, but I guess that wasn't good enough.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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you need to make it clear to that sumbitch he needs to keep his bitch in line. she's got no business being in the engine compartment, she needs to get back to the ****ing kitchen to make you and him sammiches.
 

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Fuel injectors are easy to replace but you have to remove the upper FI plenum and disconnect the PITA safety "garter spring" using the special tool in the fuel inline line coupling to the fuel rail then lift the rail and injectors out from the lower intake ports. However if you're very carefull you can just lift the fuel rail and injectors intact from the intake manifold ports without disconnecting the fuel railand/fuel line using a couple of bungee cords attached to the rail and underside of the hood. I've done it that way several times just be carefull and don't break anything. Periodically I spray Break Free on that "garter spring" as they can rust, become brittle and go away where the lines can seperate pissing out fuel everywhere...IIRC there was a "recall" on this but NBD garter springs only cost about $1.00 each.

When installing injectors just put some motor oil on the O rings and they'll slide back into the rail and intake manifold ports easily.

Mystery oil is excellent for sticky lifters and rocker arms can get loose and noisey but with hydraulic lifters there's really no adjustment using a feeler guage, engine off check the "push rod lash" hopefully you don't have any bent push rods...?
Remove valve cover engine off using a feeler guage adjust the rocker arm clicking the engine so the rocker arms is at the highest point OR fire it up, loosen rocker arm nut until tapping is loud and then slowly tighten nut until tapping subsides ....very messy and not as accurate.

I would re-torque the valve covers, lower intake manifold and upper fuel injection plenum to rule out vaccum leaks so check the Haynes Manual for correct torque spec's.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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you need to make it clear to that sumbitch he needs to keep his bitch in line. she's got no business being in the engine compartment, she needs to get back to the ****ing kitchen to make you and him sammiches.
lol, f***ing epic.

but on a side note, my midget got pissed one day and started to hold on to the manual t-fer case shifter linkage making it hard for me to go from 4 lo to 4 hi. i was not happy with him at that point, left him laying on the side of the trail somewhere..... now i need a new midget, where can i get one for a good price?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fuel injectors are easy to replace but you have to remove the upper FI plenum and disconnect the PITA safety "garter spring" using the special tool in the fuel inline line coupling to the fuel rail then lift the rail and injectors out from the lower intake ports. However if you're very carefull you can just lift the fuel rail and injectors intact from the intake manifold ports without disconnecting the fuel railand/fuel line using a couple of bungee cords attached to the rail and underside of the hood. I've done it that way several times just be carefull and don't break anything. Periodically I spray Break Free on that "garter spring" as they can rust, become brittle and go away where the lines can seperate pissing out fuel everywhere...IIRC there was a "recall" on this but NBD garter springs only cost about $1.00 each.

When installing injectors just put some motor oil on the O rings and they'll slide back into the rail and intake manifold ports easily.

Mystery oil is excellent for sticky lifters and rocker arms can get loose and noisey but with hydraulic lifters there's really no adjustment using a feeler guage, engine off check the "push rod lash" hopefully you don't have any bent push rods...?
Remove valve cover engine off using a feeler guage adjust the rocker arm clicking the engine so the rocker arms is at the highest point OR fire it up, loosen rocker arm nut until tapping is loud and then slowly tighten nut until tapping subsides ....very messy and not as accurate.

I would re-torque the valve covers, lower intake manifold and upper fuel injection plenum to rule out vaccum leaks so check the Haynes Manual for correct torque spec's.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
I've changed the injectors before, when I swapped in the explorer injectors, so thats no biggie. I'm not worried about fixing it, I just want to try and troubleshoot it so I fix the right thing.

When I changed my valve cover gaskets I checked the rocker arms and they seemed fine, I just made sure that the bolts were tight enough (18-25 ft-lb). Tomorrow I think I'll pull the valve cover off and check it out again.
 

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boobie i think you're looking at an injector. were they used? if so, were they rebuilt? you said you have an injector with a broken pintle cap, that might be your noise right there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's the number 5 injector that has the bad pintle cap, right at the front. They were used, but low mileage. I'm gonna pull them and soak them in b12 once i get access to a compressor again. Since its the driver (easier) side I'll go ahead and pull the cover tomorrow to take a look. I'll have some pics tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I have it apart right now, pulled both pushrods and rocker arms (one at a time so they dont get mixed up) and everything looks fine. Rods are nice and straight and lifters seem nice a firm. I don't know if it passes as a test or anything but when I pushed on the push rods the lifters wouldn't give at all. I did find a vacuum leak, so maybe that has something to do with it.
Pics:


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just got it put back together, and it runs pretty close to the same. I'm sure the vacuum leak being fixed helps, but I didn't really notice. It makes the noise when you are going up hill but still in lower rpms, so before it downshifts...If that makes any sense.
 

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pinging?????

boobie it might just be something you live with, or wait until it kicks the bucket.
 

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my truck started ticking recently too at low range during idle. i have a 92 5.0. i thought the oil was too thin at first, changed to thicker kind, still ticks. these trucks are getting old....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I tried to get an audio clip of it, but my camera sucks too much. I don't think it's pinging, because it is considerably quieter than pinging (went through that when I advanced the timing). I think I might back the timing off just to see if it goes away, at this point I won't rule out anything.
 

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it could just be a sticky lifter. maybe it's a wrist-pin. who knows.

the fact that you said you hear it most prominently directly on the intake next to the injector would tell me it's the injector.

i'd send the injectors out to get rebuilt. or buy a rebuilt set from the vendor on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Only thing thats making me think it's not an injector is the fact that it gets louder and quieter depending on RPM and load.

It almost sounds like this (around :45), mine might be a little quieter. This guy ended up having a bad exhaust gasket, but I've already changed those. I've checked the manifolds when I had them out, and there was no sign of a leak.
 

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Boobie if its a wrist pin I think it would be worse under a load like bearings are.You very well could have a lifter sticking. However, the mystique of the inj's are leaving too much on the table to pin point.
 

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Is it possible the internal oil pump is making that noise or exhaust header gasket leak....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm starting to think it might be an exhaust leak, even though I've replaced them...I'll check them if it ever decides to stop raining.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well today I retightened the exhaust, tighten spark plugs, cleaned the rotor\cap, swapped back to the original coil, and retarded the timing back to 10 degrees. The only difference I noticed was the buzzing from my MSD coil isn't there anymore. I also went nuts with the stethescope listening and unplugging basically everything (to see if there was a difference). The slight ticking I hear at idling is my injectors, for sure; I don't know if they are the same noise I hear when I'm moving or not.

The only other thing I'd like to do is run a compression check, my dad seems to think that I might have a pinhole leak out of the side of my headgasket. Of course, O-reilly doesn't rent that kit here, so I have to buy it, go figure. I'll update this thread whenever I run the check.
 
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