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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I am hoping that there is a person who can magically explain or identify the fix for the problem so others can reference your answer for other similar issues.



PROBLEM: Oil is being sucked into the air cleaner and oil is being sprayed out of a vacant pcv hole all over the engine and exhaust when running. FYI there are 2 pcv holes as this is a later modeled 300 (pre FI)- has a screw on oil cap. One of the PCV holes has a valve in it and is plumbed to the air cleaner 'hence the oil in the air cleaner housing. donor 300 inline out of a 80's era truck

This issue arose sometime last week and startled me as smoke filled the cab while driving home from work.

So when I got home and popped the hood there was oil all over the engine and it was burping oil from the tiny pvc hole. First thing I thought was this engine was abused and someone didn't change oil frequently and now the oil passages are not letting oil return to pan, however upon removing the valve cover- there was one of the cleanest engines you ever did see.

Next - compression check. #3 was low pumping only 70psi all others were at or around 150psi. Could this one cylinder cause enough crankcase pressure to spit oil out the top? Could the rings have aligned? How/where to go from here. Anyone?:banghead
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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moved to a better forum. according to you profile stats... you don't have an '80-'96 Bronco.
You'll get better feedback here anyway. :thumbup

As for the issue... I don't know squat but it sounds like there's a rebuild in your near future for that 300. :shrug
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I've heard... they run best, right before they give out. Although that probably doesn't apply here.
My V6 Yota ran fine for a good year and a half before I figured out the power loss I was experiencing was lost compression in the #3 (something I later learned they were prone too). You may be missing out on it running even better than you think it can. :shrug

certainly not wishing that on you at all... but once you get deep enough to fix a compression issue like that, you may as well. :shrug


I'm interested to see what other solutions may be advised for you. :popc1:
 

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does it have a pcv valve plumbed into a Vacuum source also?
the line to air cleaner should be just fresh air to replace what pcv is sucking out


before you condemn engine, do a leak down test
it will help you narrow down compression loss issue
from what you are describing, sounds like compression ring issue and all compression is going into crankcase

I have a similar issue right now on my 62 Cadillac
 

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Discussion Starter #6
does it have a pcv valve plumbed into a Vacuum source also?
the line to air cleaner should be just fresh air to replace what pcv is sucking out


before you condemn engine, do a leak down test
it will help you narrow down compression loss issue
from what you are describing, sounds like compression ring issue and all compression is going into crankcase

I have a similar issue right now on my 62 Cadillac
When I performed the Compression check every cylinder that I tested had good strong compression except the #3 cylinder it only pumped to around 70psi and seemed to be sluggish at pumping up. All others created strong compression in about 2 to 3 cranks versus the #3. Called a buddy of mine and he also thinks that the rings on the piston somehow lined up. This engine was reclaimed from a donor truck and had a compression check before being pulled. All cylinders had around 150/160 at that time 4 months ago. Oil pressure is a solid 50 when cold and ran 40 when warm. I now must debate pulling the engine and making the repair on it or just bite the bullet and buy a reman engine from Auto parts store. Wife says to snatch it out and go with one of those warrantee engines (long block) and be done with it. I have never had the money to just buy an engine but can afford it as I have little time to do this for "fun". I hope that those advance auto engine(s) are good engines- because it will save down time on the vehicle.

Weird this is a first, just going spend money for an engine that someone else rebuilt. I will say this out loud, I have been broke my whole life and had plenty of time to work on cars, but now I have money and have no time at all to fix anything. Karma- gets you both ways huh?
 

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I'm surprised to hear this kind of problem. The I6 is one of the toughest engines out there. I dont' think I've ever even heard of one having a problem like this, even with abuse.

Here's what I recommend. Check the piston rings in the #3 like you think is the problem. If it turns out your right, you just saved yourself a boatload of time and money replacing an engine. If the rings are not the problem, then you're only out a little time. And then you can get the new engine, rebuild the I6 yourself, and sell it off to help offset the cost of the new engine. With gas prices like they are, the I6 is a popular engine these days so you can get a good price on selling it rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
But a true & complete compression test should be your first step here.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/248051
Follow the instructions in the caption precisely.
Thanks for the more specific troubleshooting technique!! I am outside of the parameters that your diagram show's...... But I am interested to try the 'cylinder oil test', this would identify whether it is in the head of rings. Either way the 300 has proved itself to remain the engine of choice for me. Plenty of power/torque and reliability over the years. Sadly the engines are now so old finding a used one that hasn't been "Used Up" is almost impossible to find.

I made the decision to have a 6 vs v8 was due in two parts, first was the economy it provided, and second was I needed a workhorse- not a speed demon. It could be compared to an 'animal who works the field on a farm' to 'a racehorse at a the derby'.

If the test proves to be a ring, I will just move forward in purchasing a reman engine. I know that spending 2,000 bucks on a vehicle only worth 2,000 may seem odd - there is something worth keeping when you know ever square inch of a car. Vehicles today are expensive and I can't work on them at all. I believe that there is value in older 70's era cars and trucks if you are willing to bring them back to life..... The wife and I both agree that people who own new cars spend that much on tags and insurance in as little a 2 years. Tags are cheap and insurance is dirt cheap on ours. I sound like a geico commercial.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok - It is the rings on one piston. Oil check proved it.

Sucks that I have to replace the engine because of this, There is no way I am going to "patch this one piston" and slap it back together. I ordered a reman from advance for 1200 bucks w/300 core charge. Not coming in till next tues so I am going to be without vehicle for a week. I only get weekends off, so I will have to drive my spare 69' bronco for a week. Thank god it is a halfcab so I can haul the engine home from advance when it arrives.....
 

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Ok - It is the rings on one piston. Oil check proved it.

Sucks that I have to replace the engine because of this, There is no way I am going to "patch this one piston" and slap it back together. I ordered a reman from advance for 1200 bucks w/300 core charge. Not coming in till next tues so I am going to be without vehicle for a week. I only get weekends off, so I will have to drive my spare 69' bronco for a week. Thank god it is a halfcab so I can haul the engine home from advance when it arrives.....

I know I'm a little late but you really got bent over unnecessarily.

Just because 1-cyl blows and it's got no power doesn't mean you need a new engine. As long as it starts and runs Use an air injection check valve and plumb the breather into the tailpipe. As long as it's not losing oil too fast then you should be good.


You shouldn't have got a reman engine. Running 300s are plentiful for under $500 at junkyards. The trucks rust out at the leaf hangers and people can't fix it themselves and don't pay to have it fixed. IMO you should have gone the used route. Since you knew it was good except for that one cylinder, yu should have bought the stuff to rebuilt the 300 (ring kit and maybe bearings, put the packages into the oil pan (so you don't lose them) and stored the engine somewhere. Once you've got two 300s around you're pretty much set for life.


It's your money, do whatever you want with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just because 1-cyl blows and it's got no power doesn't mean you need a new engine. As long as it starts and runs Use an air injection check valve and plumb the breather into the tailpipe. As long as it's not losing oil too fast then you should be good.

If I were 20 years younger I would have said that too!!! Your comment took me back to my younger days.......Bailing wire and Recapped tires, oh those were the days.

Here is the thing, work/kids/wife/etc. now get in the way of my hobbies. But I now have my priorities in the right order and need this vehicle quick and in a hurry.... So not rigging it or waiting for a machine shop to finish work (within my time frame) is out of the question. Logic now tells me to (spend money) to save 'time' for work/kids/wife/etc.

I do like your spirit though, few people tackle what either of us are doing with our cars/trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well new engine has arrived and looks to have had new pistons installed.... I wonder why they installed new pistons? I thought that you only needed oversized rings when rebuilding one.

Anyway, I ordered the engine from Advance Auto which apparently contracts out "Spartan/ATK Engines". It was shipped in a heavy plastic bag within a large molded plastic container. A new oil pump sitting neatly beside the block and came with a complete gasket set. 3year unlimited warranty also was part of the deal. I hope that this engine last 30 years like the new ones did (back in the day). We will see.....

I may snap some pic's when I do the swap. Unfortunately, looks like the weather may thwart any plans of a engine swap this weekend. Cold and Snow are in the forecast
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Think about that... :rolleyes:



If the rings are bigger because the bore is bigger... :shrugRead the fine print - that might only be valid if an ASE installs it.
You are right, I think the same as well. I would have liked to see the 'spec sheet'. This engine could have had been bored 60 over and crank turned 10 under. I have never bought an engine like this before; one not built by me. So who knows what was done to this engine...... fingers are crossed


Fine print? Good lord there is two pages of that..... I was ASE certified 20+ years ago, "does that count"? However, there is nothing that voids warrantee if I do the swap myself. There were stipulations that said the basics such as ensure oil/coolant is full when starting/running. I am guessing that they don't cover any bases when it comes to simple installation mistakes that were made in the past by mechanic's getting in a hurry and not paying attention.

I see you also have a 300 in your ride -- did it come factory like that? I am guessing that you see the benefit owning one as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well took yesterday to install engine that was delayed for parts. Groove was found in harmonic balancer and motor mount was bad (drivers side). Balancer went on without a hitch after spending 2 day cleaning 30 year old cork gaskets off of donor engine. Cotton Picken motor mount that was ordered must be the wrong one as I spent two hours fiddling with trying to get the Pins to drop in their holes...... Gonna go and get another mount as the one sent Looks a bit wide.
 

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My memory may be a little foggy, it's been nearly 10 years since I managed an O'reilly Auto Parts that sold the ATK engines. IIRC, the ATK engines came with new pistons, new cam, new lifters, new valves, and new timing chain and gears. Basically, they kept the block, crank, rods, and head core. Only complaint I ever heard was getting the core refund. We would send in the engine and after checking for cracked blocks and heads they would refund the money. I don't know if they still do that or not. They used to come with Fel-Pro gaskets, which were pretty good. I worked there for about 6 years and never once had a warranty problem with their engines. Hope this quells your worry some.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Pins??? There aren't any. 3 block bolts & 1 frame stud. If the stud won't drop into the slot, that means the block has settled, and you need to loosen the OTHER side, raise the block, & shove it the other way to get this one in.

Are you using the "correct" (POS) fluid mounts, or the (better) old-style solid rubber mounts?
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744145


There is a distinct difference between the two mounts. The old mount has a stud sandwiched as follows ( nut, washer, rubber, metal, rubber, washer, nut- all set on a through stud). the "new mount" is (nut, washer, stud, metal, rubber, metal mount- additional bradded bolt hold everything together).


Hope that was not too confusing, I went back today and got another mount and it "looks to be the same as the other new mount. If it doesn't work I will install the old mount and call it a day. The only reason I am replacing it, when loosing the lower 3/4" nut- it spun in place without breaking free. I had to remove the bolts from the block to pull engine.



As for the engine, it looks like it has "all new everything". I have yet to return the old engine, it has been bagged and strapped in place within the neat plastic container that the other engine arrived in. The old engine is not hurt - it turned out to be a broken ring on the #3 cylinder and that is it. Main Bearing cap was removed "out of curiosity" and there was very little wear at all.... I could have rebuilt this one for sure. Oh well


While the intake and exhaust is off, I am going to remove the non-functioning spring loaded heat damper and fill the through hole. Had a new exhaust installed and it would pitter-patter out of that location. Some wouldn't worry but I hate having noise that shouldn't be there under the hood. any easy way to remove that flapper heat valve thingy in the exhaust?
 
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