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Hey guys, need some help. 1988 302 AOD Bronco. With spark tester on coil secondary, get one spark when starting to crank over, one when releasing remote starter button (KOEO). With test light at coil negative and ground get bright light with KOEO, dim light , no pulsing when cranking. Have 12V at BOTH sides of coil with key on. Have 12+ volts at #4 terminal of ICM. Put black dvom lead to module connector #6, Red lead to battery positive, have 12+ volts. Applied battery voltage to #5 of ICM with test light, no pulsing of light when cranking (key on) Module tests were performed by back probing wiring. Coil secondary 7.85K Ohms, primary .9 As an afterthought, problem started a few months back in hot weather, truck would die, then restart after a few hours. Only used truck to commute, so plenty of cool down time between run times. The last few times it wouldn't start, I hooked up spark tester to plug wire or coil , and then it would start! (this only worked a couple of times before getting home on a hook) Not many things look sadder than a Bronco on a tow truck. Any suggestions will be VERY appreciated
 

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yo Pete; Just got back fropm a work trip and saw your e mail. I have more work to do, so trying to read your tests vs these & yakking w/ co-workers is messing with my brain right now.

Test; Distributor-Mounted "...Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning. test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart; PIP test distributor mounted TFI only, Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts; PIP test remote mount TFI only, disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5, measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms..."
Source: by theramsey3 (Chris) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182060


Troubleshooting Tips, Distributor-Mounted; "...1. Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage. 2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires. 3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out..."
Source: by napaechlin.com


Stator and TFI both share the same grounds and power circuits, when one fails the other might be bad as well. It�s a standard practice at dealerships and most quality repair shops to replace the TFI and stator at the same time. This prevents the problem from re-appearing a few weeks latter.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

Read through this;http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ignition_module/distributor_mounted_module_1.php
 

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yo,
Ok

Use this by Ford via SeattleFSB


12V at BOTH sides of coil with key on. GOOD

12+ volts at #4 terminal of ICM. GOOD if this it the RUN terminal

dvom lead to module connector #6, Red lead to battery positive, have 12+ volts. See Worksheet #8

Applied battery voltage to #5 of ICM with test light, no pulsing of light when cranking (key on) See Worksheet #13


Coil secondary 7.85K Ohms, primary .9 - GOOD

As an afterthought, problem started a few months back in hot weather, truck would die, then restart after a few hours. Suspect PIP inside distributor; some yards have distrib. that are pulled and have been tested (preferably on another engine and run until heated)
 
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