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Discussion Starter #1
I have been doing some work on my rear brakes. I just replaced all the springs. Now I see that one side is leaking brake fluid. It is coming out of the bottom of the drum. Now I can't get the drum off. I have loosened the tension screw all the way and it doesn't budge. I don't hear any friction when I rotate the tire. I have tried using a bigger hammer and no luck. Any suggestions?
 

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o[|||]o
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I've resorted to beating the drum to pieces and prying it off once I was fed up with it. Two-handed swings with a BFH... your neighbors will think you've lost it.
 

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ASSSSS-HOOOOOLE
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You got a puller by chance? I've got a couple that are big enough to put on the brake drum, i'd use one of those, should be able to pop it right off.

Something like this, only bigger
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oldyeller said:
You got a puller by chance? I've got a couple that are big enough to put on the brake drum, i'd use one of those, should be able to pop it right off.

Something like this, only bigger
I used one from checkers for getting my race out of the axle housing. I don't have one and doubt that checkers would have one that size but I will check.
 

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FSB warrior
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Check to make sure you didnt put the shoes on backwards when you changed the springs, it will make the rod in your wheel cylinder pop out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
81Bronk36 said:
Check to make sure you didnt put the shoes on backwards when you changed the springs, it will make the rod in your wheel cylinder pop out.
The shoes stayed in place when I changed the springs
 

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Potamus did this with a D70 that we picked up for cheap.

The drums were stuck on there bad. so what he did was take all of hte hardware off the back, the cylinder, spring clips, anything that would come off.

He then had to use a hammer to get the drum off.

Also try strategic application of heat. If it is not the shoes holding the drum in place it may be rust. Heating it will expand the metal, often enough to break it loose.

Mild steel expands .006" per inch per 100*F. Cast Iron should have a similar expansion rate.
 

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ASSSSS-HOOOOOLE
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4sd4d said:
Potamus did this with a D70 that we picked up for cheap.

The drums were stuck on there bad. so what he did was take all of hte hardware off the back, the cylinder, spring clips, anything that would come off.

He then had to use a hammer to get the drum off.

Also try strategic application of heat. If it is not the shoes holding the drum in place it may be rust. Heating it will expand the metal, often enough to break it loose.

Mild steel expands .006" per inch per 100*F. Cast Iron should have a similar expansion rate.
I think you and potamus are rocket scientists, posing as mild mannered FSBer's.
 

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Oldyeller said:
I think you and potamus are rocket scientists, posing as mild mannered FSBer's.
or mild mannered FSBer's posing as rocket scientists :toothless j/k, good info :beer
 

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Pick up a "brake drum puller" from your local auto parts store. I have one had to use it a couple times for differant vehicles - works like a champ. Put it on, tighten it down to draw tension on the drum and then start tapping the drum with a hammer (dead blow works the best). Drums normally hang up where the axle flange inner circle comes though the drum due to rust build up. Keep tapping the drum and tighten the puller as the drum loosens. When it pops off, watch out because I've had them fly off pretty hard.
 

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This is all good advice, but you just haven't experienced life to its fullest til you've had the pleasure of destroying a brake drum piece by piece with a BFH :smash
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The wierd thing is, I just had it off a few weeks ago to change the springs. I think I will search for that puller and give that a go. Thanks for all the help, especially from Mr. Science. :beer
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Problem solved. I threw some liquid wrench on the center hole. A couple of blows from a BFH on the side and off it came. Thanks all for the help.
 

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Oldyeller said:
I think you and potamus are rocket scientists, posing as mild mannered FSBer's.

I think that if Potamus and I could get our crap together, we could crank out some really crazy, unique, and ultimately kick-ass stuff.

We have different skills, many of which are complimentary, and we also have many overlapping intersts.

As for the metal expansion thing, machinists learn a lot of cool stuff, that whole metal expansion thing is something that has plagued me before.

It works opposite as well. You get it colder and it shrinks more.

I really enjoy the trade I am training for, it really seems to fit with a lot of my interests. Example, I am making a part for my transmission right now.:rockon
 

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Good idea before you put it al back together would be clean up the hub real good,where your center hole goes,and put antiseize on it,this should help the drom from seizing to the axle hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Billz4x4z said:
Good idea before you put it al back together would be clean up the hub real good,where your center hole goes,and put antiseize on it,this should help the drom from seizing to the axle hub.
That is a good idea. I think I will try that
 

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Antisieze is your friend.

Except when it comes to exhaust manifolds, then it becomes better than loc-tite.
 

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Blue Tip Wrench

I had the same trouble with my brake drums i just replaced two weeks ago. I couldn't believe it, they were brand new and stuck on just after two weeks. I had to finally use the torch to heat around the end of the axle. The drum pretty much came off on its own after a little heat. Thank god for physics. why might you ask am i pulling my drums off after two weeks of use. Answer...Because i turned my third member into metal shavings and chunks, probably from a poor gear set up by the previous owner. I've never seen bearing caps break into five pieces before. BTW the i'm replacing it with a unit from bronco graveyard with 4.88's and a detroit locker. Anybody tried this setup?
 
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