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Master Bater
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7,268 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed a new air filter. the hose is from a f250 with mass air, cost 10 bucks at the local yard. used a K/N filter and it slid right in with no other bracket. PN # RX-4990, cost like 45 bucks



Installed my 205 E brake frm high Angle Driveline. its a tight fit, but works fine. im still working the bugs out of the linkage.





Wrapping up my sterling discs. ill do a full write up on this and the E brake when they are done


















more pics on superford, and more to come.
 

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Registered
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2,896 Posts
Very nice. Is that air filter pretty solid without having any bracket holding it? It seems like on rough roads it might flop around a little.
 

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Past Bronco Owner
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4,856 Posts
Question: What are the two dohickies after the proprtioning valve?
 

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Master Bater
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7,268 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Dustin said:
looks good. I take it you figured out all the sterling crap since I havent heard from you lately
yeah. It took a LOT of time and measuring, but came out pretty well. We will see when i get it on the road

MikE2 said:
Very nice. Is that air filter pretty solid without having any bracket holding it? It seems like on rough roads it might flop around a little.
I actually have it zip tied down to the AC compressor to prevent that, but the hoses are pretty firm, so it would move around too much without it. i got the idea from KL and dogonmut, so i cant take the credit for that one.
 

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Past Bronco Owner
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4,856 Posts
plug ugly said:
line locks
OK, that's what I thought. I was reading two threads. I see you added the e brake and are adding rear disks. I'm trying to folow it. If the line lock is for the e brake and your have two of them what is the second one for? also the propotioning valve has two outputs. It isn't complete in the pic so I'm not sure how you are plumbing it. Are you spliting the rear only?
 

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Master Bater
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7,268 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
90Beater said:
OK, that's what I thought.......... Are you spliting the rear only?
no, from the MC, the rear line goes to the prop valve, then to the line lock. the front goes to the line lock. the line locks lock hydraulic pressure i them so that when i flip the red covered covered switches in that panel, it holds brake pressure against the front and/or rear brakes. So its like a back up ebrake, which in conjunction with the twin sticked 205 allows me to do front or rear "digs" bu lock the front or rear brakes and driving with the opposite. Allos me to do a front or rear burnout basically, which can make tight turns possible or to dry off/heat up the front or rear tires while not moving the others/
 

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Past Bronco Owner
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Interesting. I've seen left / right slider locks but never front / back. You learn something new every day at FSB.
 

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Nice looking work Damon. :thumbup
 

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Engineer
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13,165 Posts
Nice brakes.
 

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1,132 Posts
Looks good Damon... keep it up.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,026 Posts
Sweet Damon, so it looks like you found the rotor needed for the sterling. Will be looking forward to the writeup. Any more pics of the ebrake....showing the front side (which is probably hard to get to)...would love to see how the ebrake cable connects to the caliper, and the mounting bracket for it. Since I was under the truck doing some other stuff yesterday, I took a hard look at that area, and I could get a rotor up there to make it work, but if it was more than about 8" in diameter, it would require some major rework. That's about all the room I have before it would be right up by the floor (actually there is a body support right above the tcase flange to driveshaft connection).
 

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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Shadofax said:
it looks like you found the rotor

Any more pics of the ebrake.......would love to see how the ebrake cable connects to the caliper, and the mounting bracket for it.

if it was more than about 8" in diameter, it would require some major rework.
yeah, found the rotor with some help from traveler. its from a ford van, and slides over the outsid, which keeps it hubcentric, and it just floats on the studs.

Ill drop the belly pan later this week or next, and take a bunch more pics. you have to make your own ebrake connection. I did it one way, and shawn did it another. I like his better, so I am going to redo mine. Ill post lots of pics when Im done

The caliper is aout 1.5 to 2" larger diameter than the flange, id have to remeasure. Like i said, I just pounded my floor up some, and have plenty of clearance. My drivetrain should be at about stock height, except for clocking the 205. I had expected clearance issues, so my plane was going to be to cut a rectangular slot in the floor, and then section a piece of say 2" pipe, and weld it over the slot (in the passenger compartment) and cap the ends. that way it would not be overly obtrusive. You may just HAVE to put a klune or doubler in there :thumbup if you have a body support in the way. i think you are referring to the one that I notched for 205 clearance in the pics above, you can see it to the left of the rotor.


94_chickentaco said:
Did you have to swap out tires to fit it in your garage?
yup, its a PITA, but the smaller tires do make getting to things easier without pulling the tires again. Someday, ill have a cool friend like Doug with a nice shop.

90Beater said:
Interesting. I've seen left / right slider locks but never front / back. You learn something new every day at FSB.
I had thought about putting a lock on every tire, but who are we kidding. Driving this thing down trails like the rubicon, etc, you can only get so extreme before the body gets in the way. Plus, the motor compartment is way too cramped for anything else.
 

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Premium Member
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14,612 Posts
damon you have any pics of your anti wrap bar from the looks of it ... it looks quite interesting. im looking to put one that doesnt limit my articulation
 
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