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A long time ago in a far away land.(Ok it was a year or two ago over on mybigbronco.com) Bigb made a really large sub box that replaced the rear interior panels and housed two subs per side. I had pictures of it but some how I lost them and now I want to try to make something like it. Does anyone here still have pics of what I'm talking about.
 

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huh
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dont have them but it was a very nice setup.. ill look for his email address and pm it to you if i find it..
 

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his stretched the whole side I think. It was also ported.

Correct me if I am wrong, and please do because I am building a new box soon, but isn't sealed box's sound clearer than ported, but porter are louder?? Also ported needs around 30% larger in size?
 

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Broncobob said:
his stretched the whole side I think. It was also ported.

Correct me if I am wrong, and please do because I am building a new box soon, but isn't sealed box's sound clearer than ported, but porter are louder?? Also ported needs around 30% larger in size?
Your right, kind of. Bass is not really clear no matter what kind it is. The term used most often is "tight". A sealed enclosure will have "tighter" bass than a ported one. Ported boxes are not necessarily louder. A ported box will have bass that resonates throughout the cab more than a sealed box would. I would definatly recommend a sealed enclosure unless you are trying to shake yourself to death.
 

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Problem is sealed boxes need to have the subs seperated from each other.
I wasn't ready to tackly the seperation of this box! AND keep each woofer with the same amount of internal space!
 

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Fireguy50 said:
Problem is sealed boxes need to have the subs seperated from each other.
If both subs are exactly the same, the box will sound the same with and without a divider, there is no increase in sound at all by not using a divider. problems will only arise if there is a small problem with one sub. Lets say one speaker is working fine and the other speaker is not playing at all, the working speaker will push the non working speaker allowing out of phase air pressure to come out of the box through the non working speaker, causing the good speaker to sound really bad. so if all is well with your subs then not having a divider is allright.
So basically, with no divider even a small problem with one speaker will make the whole box sound bad, but with a divider it is common for one speaker to completely go silent while the working one still sounds great. Another reason for a divider is bracing but it is more of an added bounus and is usually not the reason box builders put it in.

my advice is to use a divider unless your too danm lazy.
 

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ok, dsickles, my brother just put 2 RF punch Z's in the box that came with his truck. it is a very small airspace, so we cannot run a high end sub due to magnet size. when we installed the subs the first time i noticed that it was one chamber for both subs in a sealed box. when we fired it up for the first time, the sound was horrible, sorta scratchy and not near enough volume for the sub and amp that we were running. we eventually lookt closely and one sub was traveling while the other was compensating for it, in other words they were moving at complete oppisites. since we have added a divider, and the sound is 100% better, tight, good volume, decent sound, especially considering the grade of the subs. so if they are identical subs purchased at the exact same time, how do you explain the bad sound and oppisite travel patterns? despite having the minimal amount of airspace, the subs now work great

wes
 

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BoulderBronco said:
Your right, kind of. Bass is not really clear no matter what kind it is. The term used most often is "tight". A sealed enclosure will have "tighter" bass than a ported one. Ported boxes are not necessarily louder. A ported box will have bass that resonates throughout the cab more than a sealed box would. I would definatly recommend a sealed enclosure unless you are trying to shake yourself to death.

Actually, taking a woofer with a given amount of power and putting it in a ported box will give you 3 dB of gain. That is definitely louder. 3 dB is the smallest change a human ear can detect but I can guarantee you that it makes a difference. Also, a sealed enclosure doesnt necessarily have what you call "tighter" bass than a ported one does. It all depends on the parameters of the given speaker and the enclosure you're putting it in. Traditionally, sealed boxes are more "accurate," which is the acoustical term, however, i've heard plenlty of ported boxes that sound better (tighter) than sealed ones.

Let the flaming begin! :chili:
 

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Right! The new W7's custom box has a weird ported box.
It samples the air from the bottom/rear of the chamber, and vents it up a false back wall, over the top of the box in a fasle ceiling, then ports down-ward over the woofer.

A cut away of the box looks like a snail sheel all wound up. I'm positive that the W7 has the best box in the world, due to the money, time, and reputation of it. So a ported box can be better when designed corectly.
 

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Brieldo said:
Actually, taking a woofer with a given amount of power and putting it in a ported box will give you 3 dB of gain. That is definitely louder. 3 dB is the smallest change a human ear can detect but I can guarantee you that it makes a difference. Also, a sealed enclosure doesnt necessarily have what you call "tighter" bass than a ported one does. It all depends on the parameters of the given speaker and the enclosure you're putting it in. Traditionally, sealed boxes are more "accurate," which is the acoustical term, however, i've heard plenlty of ported boxes that sound better (tighter) than sealed ones.

Let the flaming begin! :chili:
Can you post some designs for ported boxes, or something you can recommend. I do not want to spend a ton of money on a box to build it or buy it, and I want something that sounds clearer than loud. So would I be better off going sealed?
 

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Broncobob said:
Can you post some designs for ported boxes, or something you can recommend. I do not want to spend a ton of money on a box to build it or buy it, and I want something that sounds clearer than loud. So would I be better off going sealed?
Bob,
it all depends on the Thiele/Small parameters of the woofer. Go to the manufacturer's website and see what they recommend. What drivers are you using, specifically?
 

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stangmata50l said:
I would use a divider. I don't have one in my box and the front plast of my box flexes like crazy. If you look down the box with one eye you can see the box flexing a good 2 inches......definately takes away from the sound quality more than anything. Also, If i brace the box with something to stop it from flexing you can notice that the bass becomes a lot more accurate.

That's just my $.02 :thumbup

Bracing is crucial in any enclosure. I used 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF to form my baffle and then a sheet of 1/2" on top of 3/4" for the rest. Then, I braced the enclosure internally. I'd like to make a steel baffle next time...=)
 

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I went to the website, and they said around 1.25 ft^3 or about 2 ft^3 for ported. They are not the best subs, lol, but are decent for me. Rockford Punch Hz, RFZ3412. I have two of them, 12"s. I was messing around with some calcs and stuff, and based on the specs of the subs (Qts = .40, Vas = 5.76, FS = 25hz) I tried a QTC of .88 and got a Vb of 1.5 ft^3. So I was thinking a sealed 3ft^3 box that was sealed, two chambers. If I read right, a QTC of .707 would be as close to the original recording as possible, but a QTC of .707 put the box fairly large, which would have been waaaaay out of rockfords recommendations. Anyways... this gave an F3 of 46.23 Hz, which I am not sure what exactly F3 is, if I am thinking right it has something to do with the -3db calculations. Let me know if im on the right track....

As far as the amp, it's 250 watts RMS x 2, from a 4 channel amp. US4085. (I actually believe you recommended that for me lol) The deck is a Pioneer, forget the model number I can get it if you need it, but I am using the sub pre outs to the amp with it. The 4 speakers are on a seperate amp on the other two pre-outs, 4 x 65 watts rms to them. Thanks.

*EDIT* forgot to add they recommend for the ported box, 1 port, 4" in diameter, and 10.75" long.
 

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Brieldo is again dead on.
The only thing that i always hated was that ported boxes were always a bit of a struggle to me. On some sub's the port has to be tuned exactly or it will sound like mud. Sealed boxes tend to be a little more forgiving.
3db is a lot of sound though, so if you can get a good and accurate data sheet on how to build a box from teh manufacturer then i would go that route.
If you dont think 3 db is very loud, that is about what you lose is road noise when you apply two sheets of dynamat to your interior.
Night and day difference.
 

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What I meant by the box depending on the thiele-small parameters was that manufacturers set up box specs based on this. They really arent anything you need to worry about when designing an enclosure because they've done it for you. People say that " well, because the driver has this T/S spec, it wil sound like this" well, thats fine and good but in the real world, it all comes down to how its installed. You can make a speaker that's garbage on paper sound like a million bucks if you do ti right.

You need to ask yourself what you want out of your sound. If you want it as loud as possible, with higher efficiency, along with the possibility of bottoming out if you dont have a subsonic filter, then ported is the way to go.
If you wanna regain what some people consider "better sound quality" with slightly less output, a sealed box is proobably the way to go.

Again, as i said before, a ported box can sound just as good as a sealed box but its very driver dependant and sometimes, just luck.
 

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OK, well that's what I posted above I wanted the better quality sound over loud. So that's why I asked if you had some good designs, but I am just going to go with a sealed box. thanks
 
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