Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so i know i am probably going to get lambasted here for this question and steve is going to tell me to take it to a pro....just looking for advice for simple troubleshooting before shelling out my hard earned cash!
Compressor is staying engaged during process and there is a charge in the system (DIY A/C GUAGE FROM autoparts STORE).
What could cause the air coming out vents to be hotter(feels like well into the 100's) than outside air(90)? is the heater valve compromised ?
would the blend door have an effect on this?
what does the orifice tube do and do i need to replace it? d
oes the compressor air gap do anything to the temp?
Oh and one last thing...when i turn dial from cold to hot it gets freaking hot so i know the heater works!
sorry forgot to mention that the previous owner must have converted it to 134 as it has the correct fittings and a label stating so
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,834 Posts
Is your compressor cycling frequently?
Your compressor should engage and run for a bit then disengage, then repeat.
A compressor that is engaging and then disengaging in about 5 sec or short intervals almost guarantees the system needs to be evacuated and recharged.


But there can also be other symptoms that lead to the fault of other components
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
anyone??? still trying to figure this out without throwing parts at it. i may even buy a set of HF gauges and vacuum pump
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,700 Posts
blend door is stuck on heat. You will need to check the cable from the a/c control panel. It connects to a lever under the dash that is a bear to get to. Sounds like the cable slipped out.

Happened to me.

This is what your looking for. Sometimes it can slip off the plastic dowel the cable hooks to, or the plastic breaks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,700 Posts
You can see in this picture that the spot above is located just beyond the top left corner of the glove box under the dash, it is very minimally accessible. As a temporary fix, you could manually move the lever in the opposite direction to see if that causes the truck to blow cool air.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i think the blend door is a contributing factor but the other thing i forgot to mention is that my liquid side lines are hot and if im not mistaken they should be cold right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Use your gauge and check the high and low side pressures sounds like you could have a plugged expansion tube. Even if the end door is broke the low pressure lines should be cold
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,058 Posts
yo Franco,
FYI,
96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
Same as most earlier years exc. for OBD II in 96, 4WABS (93-96); ABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD
and a few other items that I still need to research



Section 12-00: Climate Control System, Service
Symptom Chart — Climate Control System
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc0020.htm
•Insufficient Cooling
•Low refrigerant charge.
•GO to Pinpoint Test C INSUFFICIENT A/C COOLING @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc0021.htm#c


or Pinpoint Test G - PINPOINT TEST G: A/C CLUTCH CYCLES RAPIDLY
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc0021.htm#g
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,700 Posts
I would definitely recommend swapping out the orfice screen. I looked at mine and it was loaded with contamination and crap. But then again, I replaced every single component of the system.




Since you should probably open up the system, go ahead and replace the dryer. While you have it opened up, pull the evaporator coil and clean it up. Mine was loaded with crud. Its amazing any air went thru there. I just replaced the Evaporator coil and hoses and condenser coil, dryer, compressor, to avoid carrying over any contaminants from the previous owners compressor failure. Make sure you get a seal kit so you can change out all the o rings and seals. Just lube them up with compressor oil when you put them on.



Once your done with everything, take it to someone that can put a proper 45 min to an hour vacuum on it. It makes a difference. The longer it vacuums, the more moisture is removed from the system. Then charge it up and go!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
some very helpful info here thanks guys...

with my compressor running continuously i either have clogged lines, or clogged evaporator or orifice so i guess that is where i will start the teardown.

will report back with findings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Before the tear down, put the gauge you purchased on the low side and read the pressure, if it is above 50PSI you probably have a clogged orifice tube and/or screen. That might keep you from taking apart a lot of parts that might be just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
blowing cold once again.....
the compressor was not pumping at all completely shitcanned!
previous owner had forgotten to install orifice tube!
put new accumulator,orifice and compressor...oiled her up , vacuum and recharge.

thanks for all help
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top