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The other night Me and a friend was Wheeling around Long story short we ended up in A supposedly shallow slue with water at the bottom of my headlights. we couldn't find anybody capable of pulling us out (many tried) as the bronco was sitting on the frame we had to wait till around noon. My bronco sat in headlight deep water for a good 6-7 hours running transmission is flooded it locked my starter up i just checked the rear diff and it was clean somehow dont know what the best way to check the front diff (dana 44 no oil plug) The pollution pump locked up i bypassed with a smaller belt but the belt keeps popping off:banghead do i have to buy a new pump can it be gutted and just the pulley used? what all do i need to check with the water sitting that high for that long? :whiteflag any help would be appreciated
 

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good start would be changing every fluid better to spend the money now on fluids then replacing a bunch of stuff because you had water everywhere. your gunna have to pull the covers off the diffs to get the fluid out. you might be able to pull the starter apart and see if theres a bunch of mud in it and clean it out and it might work again if not you will have to buy another
 

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The other night Me and a friend was Wheeling around Long story short we ended up in A supposedly shallow slue with water at the bottom of my headlights. we couldn't find anybody capable of pulling us out (many tried) as the bronco was sitting on the frame we had to wait till around noon. My bronco sat in headlight deep water for a good 6-7 hours running transmission is flooded it locked my starter up i just checked the rear diff and it was clean somehow dont know what the best way to check the front diff (dana 44 no oil plug) The pollution pump locked up i bypassed with a smaller belt but the belt keeps popping off:banghead do i have to buy a new pump can it be gutted and just the pulley used? what all do i need to check with the water sitting that high for that long? :whiteflag any help would be appreciated
Just about ****ing everything. Your gonna have to do new fluids in just about everything except the brakes maybe. Drop the trans pan and try to get as much of the old stuff out as possible and even then you'll have to change fluid a couple times to get everything out. Get an inline filter for it too so it's not circulating dirt around in there.

Trans
diffs
transfer case
all gonna need new fluid.
pull the hubs and repack the wheel bearings.
You can gut the smog pump for now but will need a replacement soon.
 

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did you say it was running 6-7 hrs sitting in deep water?

agree with above, and sooner the better

the engine will start to rust fast internally

I would drop engine and trans fluids first so you can fire it back up and do another oil change or 2 to get any traces water back out

if brake master was anywhere near water, that too will need change and flush

don't forget p/s fluid too

didn't say where you are located

if somewhere cold,better do it fast as water freezing will break everything on that rig where water injested

gonna be a lot of love after a dunk like that

but fresh fluids should make it right

hopefully electronics are ok after the dunk
having battery power when underwater usually does them not so good

probably have to drain gas tank too ,charcoal canister and other emission crap
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Everyone else is spot on but forgot a few things.

Ujoints-if they are greasable blow that water filled grease out. Same with the front end, grease the shit out of it.

And don't forget to yank the drums and clean all the mud/water/snot out of them.
 

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I think I'll just stick to wheeling in parking lots ....
 

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Man of endless projects
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you will probably need to drop the pan of the tranny and refill about 4 times before it will start clearing up. depending what tranny you have they hold a lot of fluid. E4OD it holds something like 18 quarts of ATF and dropping the pan is something about 7 quarts. takes a lot of fluid to start diluting that water out


you will probably need to repack the front wheel bearings with new grease too
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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sunk Bronco = lots of $$$...
 

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dont know what the best way to check the front diff (dana 44 no oil plug)
Read up on installing a drain plug. You need a 7/16" drill bit and you need to put washers/sockets on the shaft to give you 11/16-3/4" of CUTTING depth. That will keep you from hitting the ring gear inside and making you have to spend more $$$$.

I have PN's and sizes in my garage back home (currently traveling), I'll see if I can get that info for you.
 

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Check and clean out the air intake too. Did the interior get wet?
 

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Nobody has asked or stated if its salt or fresh water also. AND pull out spark plugs before you even try to crank it over or you will break something
 

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Read up on installing a drain plug. You need a 7/16" drill bit and you need to put washers/sockets on the shaft to give you 11/16-3/4" of CUTTING depth. That will keep you from hitting the ring gear inside and making you have to spend more $$$$.

I have PN's and sizes in my garage back home (currently traveling), I'll see if I can get that info for you.
Ive read the ring gear is hard enough metal that it wont be damaged by a drill bit bumping into it for a second. Im actually getting ready to make my own drain bolt on front diff this weekend and am not planning to shim the drill bit.
 

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If you got water in your tranny your gunna have a hell of a time getting the water out too. i sunk a truck once and i drained and flushed that thing probly 5 or 6 times and it had pink fluid till the day i swaped the trans for a manual about 2 years later i even tried pulling the radiator and cleaning out the tank where the fluid whent in the cooler and running the truck with the cooler line in a bucket and funnling about 2 gallons of fluid threw it as fast as i could pour it but the trany never gave up from it though just stayed pink.
 

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Eric
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you will probably need to drop the pan of the tranny and refill about 4 times before it will start clearing up. depending what tranny you have they hold a lot of fluid. E4OD it holds something like 18 quarts of ATF and dropping the pan is something about 7 quarts. takes a lot of fluid to start diluting that water out
^^^ This. It'd be worth it to pay to have a complete flush done on the tranny. Don't just do a pan drop. Flush the entire system. Also, spray some WD-40 inside the cylinders through the plug holes just before you're ready to re-fire the motor. Run the starter for, about, 10 seconds (with the plugs out) to pump out any standing water, spray a little more WD, replace the plugs. I've done this to re-start a few hydro-locked motors on the trail.

My $0.02,
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry it took so long for me to reply been extremely busy
thanks for all the great replys glad i found a community willing to help :beer

the interior did get wet but nothing past the seats somehow the angle it was sitting at only let it get on the drive side floorboard about pedal deep until it was pulled out and sloshed everywhere's :itsatrap
I changed the oil before it was ever turned over the air filter was wet but it was replaced before ever trying to crank it the pump locked up as i was pulling it out thank god it didnt take a shit while we was walking back..
and yeah it ran for a good 7 hours just sitting there... slowly...so slowly.. filling up with water I wish I would have taken pictures but by the time i realized what happened.. wasnt in a picture taking mood it was on an angle so the left side was up to the middle of the blinker and right was about midbumper. I gutted the inside pressure washed the carpet and dryed the interior taking time to clean the mud off all the electric parts.
it was fresh muddy water nothing to bad ya know :shrug
and as far as the smog pump go i currently have it bypassed by it keeps kicking the belt off :banghead any suggestions? belts a masterpro K060945

what yall think about having a shop pump it out? they have a apparently magic machine that "guaranties to get every drop out" for around the tune of 100$
 

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even a shop will probably take 2 flushes to get it ok. first time I dunked my 88 I had a shop flush it and they had to do it twice and you can still see some milkshake in it

if it was running the whole time and you never shut it off, you don't have to worry bout taking out the plugs or anything like that. those suggestions are to prevent hydrolocking the engine if water got into it. but if it was running thwe whole time, it means it wasn't even deep enough for the dizzy to get wet. other than fluids and grease, you shouldn't have many problems otherwise

my old 96 I had sunk for about 8 hours. I tried to help someone else out who was sunk but I ended up sinking myself and we were back to back with no way for either of us to get pulled form the front. I didn't have enough gas in the truck to keep it running. took about 4 times of dropping the pan to get the tranny. the axles and t-case all had extended breather lines and still went underwater.

that's another thing not to forget. change the transfer case fluid too. it only holds 2 quarts of ATF
 
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